SOTA Sapphire in the house.

[gary7]

May have made a mistake. Picked this up a my local record store today. Has Monster Cable Alpha 1 cart & Souther Linear arm. No power supply. But I could not help myself. Seem to be plenty of info out there. Got to find a power supply. Has all manuals. Help me!

 

[zoombrewer77]

This is my jealous face.

 

[gary7]

This is the power plug on it.

 

[mkane]

That's slick

 

[gary7]

This is my jealous face.

Don't be. Haven't got it running yet.

 

[gary7]

Unfortunately, the rear right corner of the cover has a chunk missing, including the hinge socket.

 

[ghamilton]

Call Donna at sota.

 

[Nashou66]

Welcome to the SOTA club!!

Every once in a while I see the power supplies online . I think its a 24 volt AC but not 100% .

There is plenty of info on the official thread page. I am to at home but will see if I can get to my PS and make sure
which voltage it uses.

New covered are about 250 IIRC.

Nashou

 

[gary7]

Welcome to the SOTA club!!

Every once in a while I see the power supplies online . I think its a 24 volt AC but not 100% .

There is plenty of info on the official thread page. I am to at home but will see if I can get to my PS and make sure
which voltage it uses.

New covered are about 250 IIRC.

Nashou

Thanks. Now I'll need to start a new folder on my bookmarks.

 

[gary7]

Platter is locked down. Not going to mess with it until I get ready to get it running

 

[Ken Boyd]

Something I would have grabbed as well.

 

[gary7]

So is that the original power cord, just needs a transformer?

 

[Nashou66]

I cant get to the power supply to get you any info.



Oh And Sota has a facebook page as well.

Nashou

 

[Nashou66]

So is that the original power cord, just needs a transformer?

I believe so.

found this

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...r-supply-specs-and-ideas.416497/#post-5308413

Nashou

 

[dogwan]

I'm still running the HP printer power brick mentioned in the thread that @Nashou66 cited to power my Sota. Has been working great for me.

@gary7 it looks like yours is not a vaccum model so all you need is a >28v DC power supply to the motor. IIRC, There should be a voltage regulator on the motor board if you have the Pabst motor that will knock the voltage down from the 31vdc of the HP supply ($17.00 on Amazon). You can see my hack on my thread https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sota-sapphire-basket-case-resto-project.662523/

 

[gary7]

I'm still running the HP printer power brick mentioned in the thread that @Nashou66 cited to power my Sota. Has been working great for me.

@gary7 it looks like yours is not a vaccum model so all you need is a >28v DC power supply to the motor. IIRC, There should be a voltage regulator on the motor board if you have the Pabst motor that will knock the voltage down from the 31vdc of the HP supply ($17.00 on Amazon). You can see my hack on my thread https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sota-sapphire-basket-case-resto-project.662523/

Yes, no vacuum. Like what you did. Why Sota didn't do the plug that way to begin with.

 

[gary7]

I'm still running the HP printer power brick mentioned in the thread that @Nashou66 cited to power my Sota. Has been working great for me.

@gary7 it looks like yours is not a vaccum model so all you need is a >28v DC power supply to the motor. IIRC, There should be a voltage regulator on the motor board if you have the Pabst motor that will knock the voltage down from the 31vdc of the HP supply ($17.00 on Amazon). You can see my hack on my thread https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sota-sapphire-basket-case-resto-project.662523/

After I loosen the 2 platter holding screws, can I lift off the platter to check the bearing? What grease should I go back with after cleaning & checking the bearing?

 

[MisterDK]

After I loosen the 2 platter holding screws, can I lift off the platter to check the bearing? What grease should I go back with after cleaning & checking the bearing?

Keep the two platter lifting, Allen screws screwed in and snugged. Remove the jam nuts that are on them, leaving the platter lift screws screwed in for now. Then remove the center bolt - on a vacuum table it will have a small 90° elbow fitting screwed into the end of it. The elbow can be removed so a box-end wrench can more easily go over the center bolt, but you can remove the center bolt with an open-end if not too tight (you can, but need to be careful of the platter lifting Allen head studs you’re leaving there for now).

Once the center bolt is removed and the two, small jam nuts are off the platter lifting studs, then remove the three outer Allen head cap screws (those are on the round bearing type). The platter will now be free to lift out. BE CAREFUL - the platter can now bump into your pretty wood plinth and mess something up. This platter weighs somewhere around 15# so lift it carefully. I find it easy to lift the platter out by using something like strong twine, ribbon, etc., pulled under the platter, as close to center as possible. I last used a small dog leash I had handy. Your platter should lift straight up and out.
Feel free to ask about the next step once your platter and bearing assy. is lifted out.

 

[MisterDK]

Again, you want to leave the studs screwed in - they separate the bearing thrust so that the sapphire doesn’t get smashed in transit. The studs also guide the bearing and platter into position on the sub-chassis.
These pictures show both styles of bearing, the square being earlier. Both locate in the sub-chassis, and are removed from it, the same way.

 

[gary7]

Now you got me scared.