Vintage Motorola console

[theprep]

I recently picked up an old solid state Motorola console radio that appears to be from the late 60's/early 70's. Overall in good shape but has a few issues that come with age.

The volume was previously scratchy, you had to get the volume level just right for the left/right channels to be of equal volume. This seems to have worked itself out with use.

The turntable needs greasing, at first it took the deck a while to get up to speed. The main issue now is the tonearm seems to have a short. At times, it doesn't even play sound to the amp though you can hear the pickup playing.

Needle stays in groove, the issue now seems to be the connection in the tonearm. Audio drops in and out, I can tap the platter to get it back, but it moves either to the left or right channel, most times the left.

Very rarely does it play out both channels, so I am guessing it's the connection in the tonearm itself?

It also has a very low hum, especially noticeable when "Tape" is engaged, as I use a cable to play Spotify from my phone.

I assume the whole board needs a good spray as wells as the RCA jacks, and pots?

My only plans are to replace the speakers with some decent Parts Express (Vifa or the like)
I realize it's not hifi, it's more for functional nostalgic decore, it was only $24

 

[69chargerse]

That reminds me of my Grandmother's old console. She used to let me play my KISS records on it back in the seventies. I just love those old consoles.

 

[hammondcrazy]

I had the same issue with my Magnavox of that are,, after the Astro Sonics,, and the problem with the imbalance,was the filter cap. The solder joint had come loose and I resoldered it and was back in business. Both channels play and the hum or scratching or anything,, I have the same console that you have, well the same tuner, mine had a television in it. It is a single chassis and mine had the scratching and all that mess and contact cleaner did the trick. Not a bad sounding console.

 

[hammondcrazy]

It can be made HI/FI A speaker upgrade is the best investment you can make. If you want to go crazy build subenclosures. Unless it already has them.. Mine didn't and when I redid mine,, it was awesome. Eventually I will replace the tuner. Mine is identicle as yours.. It can sound great if you want it to.

 

[theprep]

Thanks for the reply. I have way too many hobbies, I build motorcycles, so all my money goes there, as well as tools. I have a solder iron, that's it.

There's a local guy who does vintage work for $35 an hour, I may drop it by,
The speaker upgrade I can handle with solder/x-overs.

I was thinking some Goldwood's or similar. I plan to go all Pro-ject someday, I have another console, a Curtis Mathes I can butcher for that.

I'd just to get this one fully functional and just a bit better sounding.

 

[hammondcrazy]

Before you butcher the Curtis Mathes,,, if it is tubed I would leave it be. They are realy a good console.. to save you a lot of trouble, You could take the chassis out of the console and not have to load that big cabinet. A good tech can test that chassis with a set of speakers on the bench. The tuner is basically a receiver. That is my opinion.

 

[larryderouin]

Bets are the Motorola has JENSEN Drivers in it. A recap of the Xovers' will clean things up greatly. Also recapping the amp/preamp will correct a lot of tonal imbalances caused by the caps drying out and or otherwise going out of spec. Recap it 1st, including the x'overs and listen to it for a while. Take some pictures of the speakers (back side) and write down the EIA coding which should be something like 220408(220 =JENSEN 408=40th week of '58,'68,'78....covering all of the decades consoles were stereo and in vogue). It'll most likely be a 6 digit code although I've seen 5 digit codes (older stuff).

The Volume imbalance is most likely a dirty pot. Cleaning all of the POTS/SWITCHES should take care of that. Spray DeOxit D5 INSIDE of the POT/SWITCH, then exercise the pot/switch about 50 cycles. Then spray again to flush it out.

The turntable looks like a V-O-M OEM table. Look on the underside of the TT Base. Go to www.thevoiceofmusic.com and click on the section "DO I have a VOM Unit." They show you how to find the info and decipher it. The idler wheel will probably need to be replaced. The rubber dries out and gets slippery causing it not to cycle correctly and to run slow.

The wiring problem on the TT could be a loose connection either at the cartridge or at the RCA connections on the bottom of the turntable.

The hum is most likely dried out caps in the power supply section or the coupling caps in the amplifier. They should be replaced.

These Motorola's sound very good when they are up to snuff. Replacing speakers without getting the amp/preamp up to snuff is like putting $600.00 worth of Michelins on a 1972 Camaro with bad oil rings and a cranky carb. It'll probably look good but runs like crap. The speakers on this thing are the least of your worries right now. Get the amp and the preamp/ source material up to snuff, then test drive it. It'll tell you if it needs new speakers, but I seriously doubt it.


Larry

 

[theprep]

Very solid advice Larry, thank you for the response.
I will check the aforementioned.

Of note, I did replace the needle. The cart seems to fit correctly, but as you stated, could be a number of things.
When I had the back off last night, the speaker were stamped Goldenvoice I believe.

Ball park, what does recapping cost, anything I could do myself with a good solder iron and core. Or should I just take it to the vintage repair?

 

[larryderouin]

The GOLDEN Voice speakers are most likely Jensens. Check the #'s on the rim of the speakers tho. 220 is Jensen's EIA code.

Depending on how involved it is, and the cost of the individual caps (good quality Nichicons are fairly inexpensive but Solens and such are expensive by comparison) anywhere from $25.00 to $60. But most of them fall about $40. The biggest cost is labor. A good tech can probably recap it totally in about 6-8 hours. And at 75-80 dollars an hour that adds up. Most of your problems look to be from lack of basic maintenance. ie: cleaning and lubrication. You can do that. It's not as hard as it looks, and is the 1st thing to do to rule out dirty contacts as your problem. Dirty contacts can cause hums. And volume dropouts. So clean it 1st. Clean and lube the turntable. 91% ispropyl alcohol(IPA) can be had at Walgreens as well as Q-tips (get the large 500 tip pkg!) The turntable will be the heaviest user of the IPA on the inside of the platter and the motor spindle. The rubber idler wheel gets cleaned by removing it, and soaking in how water and DAWN dishwashing liquid overnight. A HOT WATER RINSE and air dry. DO NOT TOUCH the rubber edges with your unprotected fingers. Wear cotton gloves to keep body oils away from the rubber. Also don't touch the platter rim or the motor spindle after cleaning unless wearing clean gloves.

You could do the recap yourself, provided you can read a schematic, have one handy, and KNOW what all the symbology is about, and have a working knowledge of basic electronics. getting the parts list is the easy part (you make your own by noting the value and voltage of each part on the unit itself, using the schematic as a backup. Manufacturers always made changes that didn't necessarily make the schematic. So watch out for that. If there IS a change, go with what is in the unit itself and make the change on the schematic.

PICTURES PICTURES PICTURES! AND LOTS OF NOTES!!! DRAW Diagrams if needed (I do even if not needed) as wiring colors may differ, etc. If you have problems describe the SINGLE PROBLEM and post it, with pictures of the offending area/part. Someone may have already worked on a similar unit and can let you know what's right and whats not.

GO SLOW, DON't Work TIRED. One hand in your back ocket when working live circuits.

If you DO decide to take it in, just take the control head(Tuner/preamp) and amp if two pieces or the "receiver" if one piece. No need to take in the WHOLE THING. Save your back. Get the Service manual or Sam's photofact for the unit. The shop may not have it and WILL most likely charge you for getting one.

Larry

 

[theprep]

Again, thanks. I checked Sams last night and scoured the net, have yet to find schematics for this model.

I will clean it first as suggested and keep searching for a repair manual.
Luckily the local guy Vintage Hifi in Nashville is only $35hr.

 

[hammondcrazy]

are you close to Springfield Mo? I would like to give you my tuner as I am not using the stereo and when I redo it, I am taking the tuner out. and mine works great.

 

[larryderouin]

Did you DeOxit the switches on the back panel? Make sure you get them too.

Sam's has the Photofact. The model # is SK522DP. https://www.samswebsite.com/en/photofact/details/index/id/125202

Larry

 

[ryuuoh]

I didn't think to search for Quasar when I first read this thread.

 

[theprep]

Haven't yet, but did find the service manual here: http://elektrotanya.com/motorola_sk...2600_62343_dhs62335_1968_sm.pdf/download.html

I must have overlooked that last night, you warned of being weary.... ;-)

 

[larryderouin]

I just punched in SK522 and left the suffix off. The suffix is 99.99999% the cabinet style anyway. And it came up Quasar. Go Figure.

Larry

 

[theprep]

are you close to Springfield Mo? I would like to give you my tuner as I am not using the stereo and when I redo it, I am taking the tuner out. and mine works great.

No I am outside Nashville. Very generous offer.

 

[theprep]

Larry, you were correct about the VM deck:

 

[hammondcrazy]

No I am outside Nashville. Very generous offer.

That is good too,,,,, I am between Corbin KY (here right now) and I have a home in Hartville near Springfield. I go to Jelico and I am going home for Christmas. Maybe I can find a way to get it to you. I used to live in Tullahoma.

 

[theprep]

Ok, I should be around.Small world, 6 degree of separation.
Let me know, maybe we can ship it. What condition is it in?

 

[hammondcrazy]

Working condition and no hum no pops no crackles. Same tuner as yours.