After speaking to the folks at BK kits and a couple folks who have used the S75 kits it appears even they opt for non polarized electrolytics throughout. Any idea why B&O would have used polarized for the 33 and 3.3uF electrolytics @ C4 &C7? I don’t have extensive experience with speaker...
Thanks for rhe resource. I do already have all the capacitors I mentioned. I’m curious how the above company handles the cap values - matching the service manual or matching the values on the crossover. It seems like mt combination is not an uncommon one. Maybe later models?
I’ve done this with a dozen amps/preamps and have always defaulted to using the value I find assuming it works and asking here if there’s confusion. This is my first crossover and while simple, I was curious. I doubt it would make a perceivable difference but I have both values in NPE.
I just...
I have a pair of S75 speakers that I quite enjoy and wanted to take the time to throw new caps in them. Run into a couple questions:
1. The original caps from W. Germany are still in. Service manual (see below) states a 50uF cap @ C1 & C5. In both locations there is a 47uF. I have both values...
Finally got around to getting back at this one with some time off before the holidays. Caps and all new components went in without issue.
Used these Vishay 16V 0.5W 2% zeners - looking at the readout for pins 4 & 8 on all the ICs I'm getting -4.4V and -1.2V respectively. Unit passed the DBT...
I lucked into a pair of AR3a dated 1973 at an estate sale a few weeks back. I bought them knowing a re-foam was in order. I got new surrounds from Rick Cobb and while gluing up the second one I realized how stiff it felt. It had bottomed out and needed some gentle wiggling of the cone to move...
I'll do some playing with it tonight. I'm not sure I understand completely what you're referring to but will prob make more sense once I can see the mechanics in front of me.
Does the 1710 MKII differ from the 1700 in this regard? Mine is a 1710 MKII, not 1700. When you say it doesn't have any...
I appreciate the thoughts but pretty positive it's not mechanical. I've done that and no result change - additionally, the 1600 is a much more mechanical design while the mkii 1700/1710, etc. are run a lot more by these servo motors and related.
In another thread someone mentioned the...
As I'm having trouble finding any of the part numbers listed a few pages back regarding transistors specifically, I compiled a list here of *hopefully* compatible and available (from Mouser) part numbers. I've just looked at specs of the original Panasonic parts and tried to search for...
Resurrecting and old thread but hoping this works for me as well. I've replaced ICs and once I can find current adequate replacements will order replacement transistors. The cueing and stop mech now work after replacing 4xx series ICs but the auto return alas is still not working.
I received a pristine 1710-mk2 as deal sweetener in a trade, unfortunately there have been some erratic issues with various functions since receiving it a few weeks ago: the cuing lever worked mainly reliably though in recent weeks started to work more intermittently. The stop function only...
Recap mainly completed last night except the tight spacing at C117/118 prevented me from using the MKS2's I'd ordered.
Would it be alright to bump up from 2.2uF/50v to 4.7uF 50v or 63v in this slot? Otherwise I'll wait on the order...
I’ll go grab some sockets today from the local spot and try this out? Im reading conflicting information on whether or not it’s okay to power up and test on sockets without op amps installed.