Recent content by p. rex

A Kenwood D-7 rack handle is a fairly massive chunk of metal. But could you explain why touching a heavy metal object will discharge all the static, even if the object is not actually connected to earth? Is it perhaps that a little static simply isn’t enough to impart any significant charge to...

Hello all, I am trying to think more systematically about my static management when playing records. I have a VPI RCM and a Zerostat gun and store everything in poly-lined paper. The wild card is my own body — I want to try to avoid introducing static to my turntable/mat/records wherever...

Excellent, thanks. That looks like three quarters of an inch. So an M4 x 20 should be about correct.

Hello all, Just got in a set of D-7 carry handles for my KA-8100 integrated amp. I figured that you removed the four front chassis screws on the sides of the amp, put the handles on the sides, and reinserted the screws to secure the handles in place. But the screws are not long enough to reach...

I guess in practice that the capacitor across the switch doesn’t let any current through when the switch is open?

Ok, here’s a basic question as to how this works. The switched outlets appear to be wired in *parallel* with the switch. But then how are they switched? If you plug, say, a tuner into one of them, wouldn’t the current find a parallel place to ground through the tuner and light it up *regardless*...

Ok. So according to the schematic, white is hot, red is neutral, and by elimination the yellow wire must be the load wire, right? I am guessing that somehow I am placing too much importance on the order in which things are connected on either the hot and neutral sides (respectively; I’m...

Hello all, What is the difference between the two schematics for the power switch/convenience outlet wiring in a Kenwood KA-8100? The simpler one is in the main schematic, the more complex is the entry for USA market under “revised circuits.” Also, any particular advice on how to splice/join...

I guess if you had stacked large Advents and your volume hand was getting twitchy, Sony had your back!

Ah, so it sounds like the circuit is not too quick to intervene. I’m guessing that would likely be helpful in dealing with a real 4-ohm load. If it will supply 15 amps for transient demands, I suspect it will tolerate a little impedance dip somewhere in the spectrum, or a spot with an ugly...

The amp under consideration is a Kenwood KA-8100. I believe the limiting mechanism is Qe13, 15, 17, and 19. Soundcraftsmen power amps interest me. They seem like the best value in vintage power amps for overengineered, heavy-hitter power.

Hello all, Couldn’t find an answer to this question by searching, so I thought I’d post it here. With the vintage solid state amps we like, is there any clear way to tell that V/I limiting is throttling the outputs to protect the output transistors? I have been doing a lot of reading on this...

So far as feel is concerned, smooth and positive is good. Not overly heavy but with a precise mechanical feel. And those images are fantastic, Gort. Just what I’m looking for. Thanks!

Thanks, this is very informative. Gort, from your description, it sounds like what I always heard called a thin film stepped attenuator. Same as I have in my Technics integrated, and as the units used in top of the line Pioneer receivers and integrateds (think SX-1250 and SA-9900). That’s very...

Hello all, I’m seriously considering buying a KA-8100 integrated and there are two questions I wanted to ask. First, how are the knobs and switches from a tactile standpoint? That’s very important to me; an amp has to feel good to use, and if it doesn’t, it’s a turn-off. I love over-the-top...