2220B Broken Dial Pointer Repair Suggestions

BrewDude

BrewDude

Member
Doing a recap and relamp, I managed to break off the dial pointer piece (right at the 90 degree bend)---
can't find the piece broken off.

Anyone have experience replacing one these?

I'd like to just replace the clear pointer -- might be difficult if glued into holder.
or
Can I replace entire dial pointer holder assembly with a replacement? -- without having to restring?
Not sure how that is being held (brown glue/wax). See attached pics

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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I would try to find the broken piece. It may be lodged somewhere on the tone control board? It can be glued back on.
 
Not an uncommon problem and replacements might be tough to find. You really need to find the broken off part! I'm sure it's possible to fabricate an entire new one from a piece of plexi and a lot of hand work. Jewelers saw, file, sandpaper and plastic polish (Novus), but tough to do if you're not already an experienced model maker!
 
I just did exactly the same thing in exactly the same spot on a 2245 pointer. After several choice words, I got out some trusty superglue gel and spent quite a bit of time getting it aligned and getting a primary set of the glue. At first it was a bit moveable, so I hung it on it's normal perch on the dial with the pointer facing down. Gravity kept it vertical and when I came back in a couple of days, it was rigid, would take a little lateral force and transmitted light well. I think it's going to be a good fix.
 
Snapped mine in the same exact spot and, like Steven, I used gel Superglue to reattach it. I missed the angle by a degree or two but used my heat gun to soften the pointer's plastic just enough to bend it into alignment. You'd be hard pressed to see the break.
 
I'm going to bring in a super bright flash light and search the area -- it can only be 1 of 2 , possibly 3 locations here at work. I'll keep you posted.
If so -- I'll glue it.
We have a 3D printer here at work -- if I can remove the clear pointer, I could definitely print one and replace. I think we have some clear polycarbonate filament.
 
If you print one, you should probably sell it! Trick- I recently needed some 3d printed parts to be optically clear so I could shoot video through them. They weren't good enough as-printed. Just dip in Future Acrylic Floor Finish, let it dry, and all is well. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

This may work on other things, like plastic dial windows, but I've not tried it.
 
ConradH said:
If you print one, you should probably sell it! Trick- I recently needed some 3d printed parts to be optically clear so I could shoot video through them. They weren't good enough as-printed. Just dip in Future Acrylic Floor Finish, let it dry, and all is well. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

This may work on other things, like plastic dial windows, but I've not tried it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! I have a 2252B -- if it's the same pointer, I could use that to dimension that part.
 
Does anyone know if the dial pointer housing can be removed from the tuner string easily?

It looks like it is secured with glue or rosin, but can't tell if it is threaded through the plastic housing or not.
 
BrewDude said:
Does anyone know if the dial pointer housing can be removed from the tuner string easily?

It looks like it is secured with glue or rosin, but can't tell if it is threaded through the plastic housing or not.
Click to expand...
I have removed that glue on a few occasions to slip the housing one way or another a fraction of an inch to get the pointer more accurate. Probably not the best way, but it works. Assuming it is similar to a 2230/2245/2270, use a Q-Tip to put isopropyl alcohol on the two dots of glue. Do it several times over 3 or 4 minutes and then use a metal scribe or jewelers screwdriver to scrape out the glue. The string is just sitting in two notches in the housing. At some point it will lift out and the housing should be free from the string. I use small amount of wood glue to reattach the housing.
 
Steven Tate said:
I have removed that glue on a few occasions to slip the housing one way or another a fraction of an inch to get the pointer more accurate. Probably not the best way, but it works. Assuming it is similar to a 2230/2245/2270, use a Q-Tip to put isopropyl alcohol on the two dots of glue. Do it several times over 3 or 4 minutes and then use a metal scribe or jewelers screwdriver to scrape out the glue. The string is just sitting in two notches in the housing. At some point it will lift out and the housing should be free from the string. I use small amount of wood glue to reattach the housing.
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve for the tip!! This is definitely one option I am looking to do -- Looking on Ebay for a replacement. Tough to find.
 
I was trying to remove the dial pointer itself. It is really glued in there. It broke at the 90 degree bend. I cut it off squarely and still opting for printing one and securing with glue.
Unless I find a replacement for the dial pointer assembly at a reasonable price.
 
I got a used Marantz 2010 with dial pointer broken off at the 90 degree bend and the broken off downward pointing piece nowhere to be found inside the unit. I was inspired to make my own repair by the super helpful posting by kungfu_jesus at https://www.reddit.com/r/vintageaudio/comments/bt0q9f/marantz_2220_i_picked_up_didnt_have_a_dial/
With accompanying pics at
https://imgur.com/a/9D6mRPZ#dkVygec

(You get from the first page to the second page by clicking on the Marantz pic at the top of the first page.)

Here are the specific instructions from the Reddit post along with my notes in brackets:

“I just went to Home Depot today and picked up a small acrylic sheet and a hack saw [I used a table saw]. I cut the initial L shape [in my case the downward pointing piece] and then used sandpaper to get the rest in spec [I sanded off the angled portion using a stationary belt sander laying on its side]. I ended up using 320 grit for finishing then wet sanded with 800 and used some PlastX to get the remaining polish so the edges didn’t glow so much [Plastx is made by Meguiar’s].”

“I also got some white acrylic paint and just painted the backside of the indicator. It reflects the light out good enough and leaves the front clear to show that light.”

Some more notes: I used a wooden jig with nails stuck into it to support and hold the main dial pointer assembly and the new piece together after gluing. The glue has to be as clear as possible. I used J-B Weld 2-part epoxy resin.
 
That's really good work! Good to know there is a path to a new pointer if one is broken and can't be repaired.
 
I was going to write a "review" of a dial pointer for a Marantz 2226 I purchased quite recently off ebay from a seller in the Netherlands. The seller had several positive reviews of his dial pointer. I was not able to fix mine given the way it was broken in several pieces. This was my only solution as I really don't think I had the skill to make one myself.

So here is what received. First, the cost. Not cheap. Sold for $39.95 (dollars), S&H = $8.99 and tax (Ohio) was $3.18. Total cost = $52.12. Second, took about 5 weeks to arrive and it was inspected by US Customs. No tracking so I just had to wait and hope it showed up.

Once I received it I had to carefully remove the t-shaped part of the indicator that fits (glued) into the holder. I used an "exacto" knife with a long narrow cutter. I found acetone to be the best solvent for the glue. It does dis-color the black plastic holder some but not much. This part has to be totally free of glue to get a good fit and keep the pointer straight.

The pointer I received fit very well. However, as can be seen from the photos it was probably 3D printed. It was also a few mm longer than the original and very slightly wider. I measured these dimensions with a precision dial caliper. Again from the photos, the plastic is not quite as clear as the original and most important IMHO is that the tapered tip is generally well done but not as nice as I would have expected given the price. There is also what appears to be a very small chip or defect at the beginning of the taper (pointed to by arrow).

Conclusion, if I was dealing with a seller in the US I would complain and see if I could get a better replacement. But sending it back to the Netherlands would be a hassle. I do think it probably could be "cleaned up" a bit with very fine sanding sticks and a product like Plastx. I may try that but I really don't think it looks that bad.

Hope this helps someone looking for a replacement and is willing to spend more money than they should. However, if you need that part I think it is a viable option.

Cleaned up holder.
holder 1 .jpg

Original compared to replacement.
comp1.jpg

Replacement in unit. May look like it sits at a slight angle to the face plate but it doesn't. Just due to the photo.
new1.jpg
 
I really appreciate the review, I've been wondering about these. I think you're right on the 3D printing given the way the whole pointer glows. The originals look like they were cast acrylic. Used dial pointers are often around $40 but at least look right!!
 
I wrote the seller to express my concern about some of the quality issues I noted here and told him about this review. His response,
"Thank you for your kind Review
This is very important for our service to improve
We have had Made a special expensive mould to produce these items because we needed them for repair and had questions for this from our customers
I Will discuss the tip with the factory
Kind regards
Louis". So it sounds like they are using a mold but I had the same reaction to the way it looks especially the way the tip is "etched" rather than painted to create the illumination. Still useful as I have looked for months for an original replacement without finding one.
 
DAY4201 said:
I was going to write a "review" of a dial pointer for a Marantz 2226 I purchased quite recently off ebay from a seller in the Netherlands. The seller had several positive reviews of his dial pointer. I was not able to fix mine given the way it was broken in several pieces. This was my only solution as I really don't think I had the skill to make one myself.

So here is what received. First, the cost. Not cheap. Sold for $39.95 (dollars), S&H = $8.99 and tax (Ohio) was $3.18. Total cost = $52.12. Second, took about 5 weeks to arrive and it was inspected by US Customs. No tracking so I just had to wait and hope it showed up.

Once I received it I had to carefully remove the t-shaped part of the indicator that fits (glued) into the holder. I used an "exacto" knife with a long narrow cutter. I found acetone to be the best solvent for the glue. It does dis-color the black plastic holder some but not much. This part has to be totally free of glue to get a good fit and keep the pointer straight.

The pointer I received fit very well. However, as can be seen from the photos it was probably 3D printed. It was also a few mm longer than the original and very slightly wider. I measured these dimensions with a precision dial caliper. Again from the photos, the plastic is not quite as clear as the original and most important IMHO is that the tapered tip is generally well done but not as nice as I would have expected given the price. There is also what appears to be a very small chip or defect at the beginning of the taper (pointed to by arrow).

Conclusion, if I was dealing with a seller in the US I would complain and see if I could get a better replacement. But sending it back to the Netherlands would be a hassle. I do think it probably could be "cleaned up" a bit with very fine sanding sticks and a product like Plastx. I may try that but I really don't think it looks that bad.

Hope this helps someone looking for a replacement and is willing to spend more money than they should. However, if you need that part I think it is a viable option.

Cleaned up holder.
View attachment 2341281

Original compared to replacement.
View attachment 2341282

Replacement in unit. May look like it sits at a slight angle to the face plate but it doesn't. Just due to the photo.
View attachment 2341285
Click to expand...
Hi,

Just finished reading your post. I'm exactly in the same situation in finding that the broken dial pointer is glued into the housing. I didn't think a solvent would help much in getting the original pointer out. I'll try the acetone suggestion but worry that the force exerted with the exacto knife will ultimately crack the black plastic housing unless I'm super careful. Just out of curiosity, how long did the removal take and what did you use to dispense the solvent? I thought of a syringe and needle but considered the acetone would dissolve the syringe plastic.

Any suggestion or advice would be so much appreciated.

Scott
 
Hello Everyone, I just purchased a 2220B, the pointer bulb is not getting voltage. The tuner dials are all working! Does anyone know what could be wrong in the power circuit for the pointer or we I should start looking for the problem? I have noticed some small burnt marks on the higher wattage power supply resistor so I am planning on rebuilding the power supply board once I get enough experience with this unit, suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
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