Cerwin Vega E-712 Fix

leavinghope

leavinghope

Audio Explorer
Hey there guys. With as much appreciation as I can think of, I was wondering if there is anyone on here that knows a thing or two about the Cerwin Vega E-712 speakers. Particularly how to fix the woofer. My best guess is that it's blown. I have done extensive searching on Google for a replacement speaker. I haven't found anything. So I was wondering if it's possible to find a replacement woofer that is a qualified replacement for the actual woofer that is supposed to be in the E-712. Any knowledge on any of this would be of great help and I would appreciate it immensely. I do thank you for taking the time to read it and I look forward to any responses. Thank you.
 
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Have you tried contacting CV directly? You might be able to get a replacement from one of the newer models, I can't imagine them being all that different.
 
I highly doubt the foam is already rotten on E-712s, they're a mid-2000s model. If they are rotten, someone must have stuck them in a tanning bed! ;-)

EDIT Actually, they came out in 1998. So, I suppose it's conceivable they might need a foam job.
 
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duronboy, do you have a thread with your cerwin vegas? Nice to see a bunch of 15's in a row.
Hope you get your woofer straightened out O.P.
 
Chris Brown said:
What makes you say that? Is it just the foam on the outsides that is gone? Does the voice coil in the center rub when you push the cone in and out?
Click to expand...

The woofer is cracked. The cone. I'm only guessing that the whole woofer needs to be replaced. Are you suggesting that the cone just needs to be replaced to get it back in working order. I'm obviously new to all this.
 
East or west coast repair shops

Depending on where you live, there are two places I have used with excellent results to repair speakers.

Orange County Speaker in Garden Grove, CA does re-coning and surround work. Thy can also repair voice coils. They are an authorized Cerwin Vega repair shop and thats where I sent my CV woofers to get fixed.

If you are on the east coast, Miller Speaker (Millersound) in Philidelphia, PA will do a great job.

Hope this helps,

Jesse
 
Bumping a 10 Year old thread, but I am looking for some advice.

I purchased a pair of CV E-712 speakers in relatively good condition (or so I thought). I also got a CV center channel speaker that I do not plan on using at the moment.

They all look good. Foam is good. No tears, dryness, etc.

One of them sounds fine -- But...

The tweeter was not working on the other. At first I thought it was the level switches, I used my "secret sauce" (contact cleaner followed by Amsoil MP), and they now feel better, and the midrange seems to adjust correctly, but still no tweeter.

I checked the tweeter and it is showing open.

I ordered a new tweeter (clone replacement specifically to replace the CV tweeter) from Midwest Speaker, and it was here in 2 days.

So then I thought that I should check the crossover before installing the new tweeter.

It is lucky I did this because 2 of the NP Electrolytics are more than just a little puffed (but not leaking). One of these is reading a much higher than rated value (800uF should be 80uf), but no significant series resistance. I did not try to put any voltage across it, but I am convinced from the value reading and appearance that they are bad.

So here is my dilemma:

1.) Replace the 100, 80, and 18 mfd caps on the original crossover. Since I will have to buy 10ea of each value, I will do both speakers.
Advantages: They will still be the proper CV design, and very close replacement parts.

2.) Replace the Crossovers with "Generic" crossover boards.
Advantages: I am religiously opposed to putting audio through electrolytic capacitors. The Chinese boards come with "hifi grade" metal film and/or polystyrene capacitors. The Chinese crossovers seem to be a better design, without so many capacitors. Capacitors rated at at least 250V, instead of the 100V rated electrolytics
Disadvantages: I don't really know the correct crossover frequencies for the CV elements, nor could I necessarily find a crossover with those points even if I did.
Speaker wouldn't really be a CV speaker anymore (but it could actually be better).

Either way, the cost will be about the same.

Do I buy a handful of NP electrolytic's or order 2 crossover boards?
 
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Apparently, this place is not exactly teaming with CV fans.

Since I didn't get a response, I had to go with what I know (or think I know). As mentioned, I did not like the cheap electrolytics on the original CV crossover boards. Also, trying to replace all/most of those electrolytics, including possibly having to install axial lead caps instead of the radial lead parts, probably would have lead to a bit of a rat's nest.

After some surfing on "a certain popular auction site", I found these:

Crossover.jpg

Yes, they are Chinese, but they look well made, have proper English writing on them and -- No Electrolytics!

They were in my mailbox 12 days after I ordered them. The pair cost me $75 ("free" shipping), and they include a schematic and frequency response plots.

Installing them (and the replacement tweeter) took longer than expected. These crossovers are much larger (and heavier) than the originals, So I had to simply screw them to the back wall of the speaker. Also note the solder in the connection holes. It took a while to get that out so that I can insert the wires.

Results:

I have to say that I am very pleased with the results. I get that ideally the crossover should be matched to each speaker element, but for this repair, that's not really possible. All elements are working, and there seems to be more bass than original. I like these enough to recommend them for any repair or upgrade to pretty much any cheap to mid-range speaker.
 
linuxslate said:
Apparently, this place is not exactly teaming with CV fans.

Since I didn't get a response, I had to go with what I know (or think I know). As mentioned, I did not like the cheap electrolytics on the original CV crossover boards. Also, trying to replace all/most of those electrolytics, including possibly having to install axial lead caps instead of the radial lead parts, probably would have lead to a bit of a rat's nest.

After some surfing on "a certain popular auction site", I found these:

View attachment 2964630

Yes, they are Chinese, but they look well made, have proper English writing on them and -- No Electrolytics!

They were in my mailbox 12 days after I ordered them. The pair cost me $75 ("free" shipping), and they include a schematic and frequency response plots.

Installing them (and the replacement tweeter) took longer than expected. These crossovers are much larger (and heavier) than the originals, So I had to simply screw them to the back wall of the speaker. Also note the solder in the connection holes. It took a while to get that out so that I can insert the wires.

Results:

I have to say that I am very pleased with the results. I get that ideally the crossover should be matched to each speaker element, but for this repair, that's not really possible. All elements are working, and there seems to be more bass than original. I like these enough to recommend them for any repair or upgrade to pretty much any cheap to mid-range speaker.
Click to expand...
Very cool thank you for that. I have a pair of E-712's. I have a bad woofer and replaced that original with the Studio Z NSCE-1250

www.nipponamerica.com

NSCE-1250 | Nippon America

www.nipponamerica.com www.nipponamerica.com

Woofer with 2” Aluminum Voice Coil
• 12” Paper Cone with Cloth Edge
• Frequency Response: 35-5000 Hz
• Magnet Weight: 50 Oz
• Sensitivity: 92 dB
• Voice Coil Size: 2” ASV
• Max Power: 500 W
• Impedance: 8 Ohm

Still evaluating the speakers next to eachother, but this speaker sounds good, not as much movement on the cone / foam as the original CV.

Sounds like I need to take a look at the crossovers? I appreciate your post.
 
Since at least someone else has these speakers, I'll post an update on mine:

A few days ago, I powered on my Home Made 7591 tube amp. It sounded really flat - I immediately knew something was wrong, so (after panicking) I realized that it was the left speaker that sounded flat. -- Same as the other one -- No sound from the tweeter -- Tweeter shows open.

This is definitely the other speaker from the one I repaired previously.

Fault tree:

1) DC present on the input and not blocked by the crossover.
The outputs on my Tube amp are connected directly to output transformers, which are referenced to ground.
There are no other indication of DC on the output.

2) Other energy (ultra sonic?) on the output.
Again -- no reason to suspect this. I have checked the amp outputs with a 100 MHz oscilloscope during construction/testing.

3) Loud noise events that happened with the amp connected to an Android TV box.
My amplifier has a built in high quality DAC with USB, SPDIF Coax and SPDIF Optical inputs.
At certain times the TV box sends something on the SPDIF that the DAC passes as loud (full volume) digital noise.
No other elements were damaged, only the other tweeter.
I did not notice the problem until several weeks after the last loud noise event.
My home made tube amp can produce about 20 percent (at most) of the rated power of the speakers, even fully driven.

4) Just the age/construction/previous storage of the tweeters caused them to fail at about the same time (age)
A post-mortem of the 1st failed tweeter (done at the time) seemed to indicate an open right where the flexible lead from the terminals is bonded to the wire of the voice coil.
Inspection with a magnifying glass may show some corrosion at this spot (where it appears that the end of the voice coil is no longer connected).
The speakers were stored in a non-humidity controlled environment in Florida for at least a time before I purchased them (possibly years).

Additional factors: I suspect that the first tweeter was bad when I purchased the speakers. If that is not the case, it must have failed almost immediately after being connected, because I noticed the issue right away. The 2nd tweeter failed after numerous uses, and hours of playing.

I have the mid and tweeter switches set to the low (reduced) position, which should have insured that energy sent to the tweeters is further reduced.

The amp has far more hours of use with other speakers -- None of which seem to be damaged.

For now, I'm going with 4), and just hoping that I don't have another failure.
 
linuxslate said:
Since at least someone else has these speakers, I'll post an update on mine:

A few days ago, I powered on my Home Made 7591 tube amp. It sounded really flat - I immediately knew something was wrong, so (after panicking) I realized that it was the left speaker that sounded flat. -- Same as the other one -- No sound from the tweeter -- Tweeter shows open.

This is definitely the other speaker from the one I repaired previously.

Fault tree:

1) DC present on the input and not blocked by the crossover.
The outputs on my Tube amp are connected directly to output transformers, which are referenced to ground.
There are no other indication of DC on the output.

2) Other energy (ultra sonic?) on the output.
Again -- no reason to suspect this. I have checked the amp outputs with a 100 MHz oscilloscope during construction/testing.

3) Loud noise events that happened with the amp connected to an Android TV box.
My amplifier has a built in high quality DAC with USB, SPDIF Coax and SPDIF Optical inputs.
At certain times the TV box sends something on the SPDIF that the DAC passes as loud (full volume) digital noise.
No other elements were damaged, only the other tweeter.
I did not notice the problem until several weeks after the last loud noise event.
My home made tube amp can produce about 20 percent (at most) of the rated power of the speakers, even fully driven.

4) Just the age/construction/previous storage of the tweeters caused them to fail at about the same time (age)
A post-mortem of the 1st failed tweeter (done at the time) seemed to indicate an open right where the flexible lead from the terminals is bonded to the wire of the voice coil.
Inspection with a magnifying glass may show some corrosion at this spot (where it appears that the end of the voice coil is no longer connected).
The speakers were stored in a non-humidity controlled environment in Florida for at least a time before I purchased them (possibly years).

Additional factors: I suspect that the first tweeter was bad when I purchased the speakers. If that is not the case, it must have failed almost immediately after being connected, because I noticed the issue right away. The 2nd tweeter failed after numerous uses, and hours of playing.

I have the mid and tweeter switches set to the low (reduced) position, which should have insured that energy sent to the tweeters is further reduced.

The amp has far more hours of use with other speakers -- None of which seem to be damaged.

For now, I'm going with 4), and just hoping that I don't have another failure.
Click to expand...
Well good luck with that aftermarket tweeter.
I had to replace one tweeter that ohmed open.
I opted for a CV used tweeter off ebay instead of the aftermarket tweeter. Maybe a bad call, but for now it works and sounds great.
 
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