Marantz SR-2000 recap

I haven't seen a recap thread for this model before. While I recognize that it's not a top of the line model, mine came from my dad (so it was free and has sentimental value). This will be my first recap so any advice would be appreciated.

The left channel is having issues. It sometimes works, but sometimes doesn't. I sometimes hear excessive fuzz out of it. I did a superficial examination and can't find any busted caps, but I've been wanting to try my hand at recapping anyway so I figure this will be a good start.

I've also read that the power amplifiers in these sometimes stop working. I've included a picture of one of the power amps in my unit. It looks like someone went crazy with the thermal compound, but I don't know how to tell if there's an issue with the amp - any advice?

One of the pictures shows the power amp within the receiver. The other shows my living room with the receiver on the left side of the picture. I have a bunch of pictures if anyone wants to see inside the receiver now as well; I'll post more as I work to determine what caps to order.

Cheers,
Roger
 

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Alright. I went through the board schematic today and have a few questions:

Are the electrolytic capacitors the only ones that I should be replacing? I ask because I've seen people discuss replacing film capacitors and/or replacing electrolytics with film capacitors.

Second is a question about the SR-2000 parts list vs. schematic diagrams. The parts list has C213 listed as an electrolytic capacitor, but I can't find it on the schematic diagram. I'm not at home so I can't look at the board; I can't see the correct area from the pictures I took last night either.

Cap 306 is listed as an electrolytic cap with a description of 0.22uF +/- 20%. I'll check at home to make sure this is a ceramic cap that was mislabeled on the parts list. The schematic diagram suggests it is a ceramic cap.

One mistake on the schematic diagram: C218 is shown as a non-electrolytic capacitor on the schematic diagram with .04 uF; however, the parts list lists it as a 1uF, 50V electrolytic capacitor. While I can't see the values on the capacitor, I can tell that it is, indeed an electrolytic capacitor (so the schematic diagram is incorrect). I'll update with the capacitor value after I check the cap at home.
 
Here's a list of the cap.s that I'll need according to the list I just made (this will be revised after I look at what is available via Mouser):

2x 47uF 10V
2x 100uF 10V
1x 220uF 10V

7x 10uF 16V
2x 22F 16V
4x 47uF 16V
1x 220uF 16V

4x 10uF 25V

2x 4.7uF 35V
2x 10uF 35V

2x 10000uF 42V

2x .22uF 50V
4x .33uF 50V
3x .47uF 50V
13x 1uF 50V
2x 2.2uF 50V
6x 3.3uF 50V
3x 10uF 50V
1x 22uF 50V
1x 47uF 50V
4x 220uF 50V

1x 47uF 63V
1x 470uF 63V
 
The left channel is having issues. It sometimes works, but sometimes doesn't. I sometimes hear excessive fuzz out of it. I did a superficial examination and can't find any busted caps, but I've been wanting to try my hand at recapping anyway so I figure this will be a good start.

I restored an SR-1000 last year; its very similar to the SR-2000 except it uses a single stereo STK module. The left channel issues might be due a poor contact: clean all of the switches, in particular the tape monitor with a good contact cleaner. Another area to check is the ground connection under the amp pcb to the chassis, this consists of a screw connection. Clean the ground pad and add solder as well as a serrated washer; this also resolved the DC offset I was measuring at the output in my unit.
 
Rule 1, repair all anomalies with the unit before considering a recap. Part of the repair might involve replacing a cap, but if a unit has problems and you do a recap that introduces new problems, you could end up with a doorstop. You'll see a surprising number of posts about how to fix units that have a problem after a re-cap, especially for first timers.
 
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