-
Feeling lucky? Check out the AK 24th Anniversary Giveaway thread and join in the fun!
Official AR Turntable Owners Thread
- Thread starter 4Play
- Start date
I used some cheap RCAs I bought on Amazon and they seem to be slightly small in diameter because most cables don’t fit tightly. I wouldn’t recommend them, but don’t care enough to change them out. My jacks are oriented the same way so maybe I’ll just believe great minds think alike. Doesn’t seem like a big deal either way.
audi0n00b
Active Member
Hello all. Looking for help selecting a new cartridge under $300 for my XA. My table has all recommended mods with exception to mass loading. Currently running a Grado with retipped nude elliptical, also have a Shure M91 and Realistic R25XT.
Based on my research I’ve considered the AT VM95SH, AT VM540ML, Ortofon 2M Blue, Shure M97xe. Looking for confirmation or suggestions outside of these. Open to upgraded stylus for existing cartridges as well.
Based on my research I’ve considered the AT VM95SH, AT VM540ML, Ortofon 2M Blue, Shure M97xe. Looking for confirmation or suggestions outside of these. Open to upgraded stylus for existing cartridges as well.
AvFan
Super Member
There are two used Nagaoka MP-150s on US Audio Mart within your budget. I don't have any experience with AT carts but I do own the 2M Blue and M97xe and they would not be my top choices over the Nagaoka.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/shure-m95ed-m55e-m91ed-m97xe.985900/page-5
My days of looking over the fence to see if the neighbor’s grass is greener are over. The M55 withVividLine stylus in a wood body is great on the XA. It did benefit from a heavier counterweight courtesy of Nashou66.
I am partial to the 2M Blue. Bang for the dollar, a very nice cartridge. My 2 cents.
I have bought Linn springs before for the Ariston I r-did. Considering the weight differences between the two platters+sub platters, I can't see how well the Linn springs will work with the weight of the AR. Is this why people mass load the T-Bar?
AvFan
Super Member
This is from conversations quite some time ago...The center of gravity of platter/T-bar of the original ARs was above the top plate due to the mass of the platter and sub-platter. This created the opportunity for the whole assembly to move laterally due to an external vibration. Adding weight under the T-bar lowers the center of gravity to, I believe Marc Morin determined to the top of the springs, a more neutral position that would respond better to lateral vibrations. The beefier springs are needed due to the additional weight. The amount of weight is dictated by the springs to end up with the CG at the top of the springs.
Interesting. I don't know if I really want to go the Linn spring route just yet.
I am guessing no one has found any bushings that could work as a replacement?
If you are referring to the rubber spring supports at the bottom, hardware stores sell something similar, although they don’t have the cardboard tube inserts. Not cardboard, but you hopefully understand. That said, I don’t know that they really wear out. I have every expectation that whatever Marc did, and recommended would be an improvement.
So I've been thinking about restoring the tonearm damping on my XA and decided to give it a shot. I'd never taken the arm apart before and had always assumed the table was stock.
So I was a bit surprised when I got the tonearm coupling housing disassembled and found that the damping pin was not in the pivot drum. The fact that there was no foam washer atop the spindle was no surprise.
So I figured I could simply close it all back up and forego the attempt at reviving the viscous damping, or just go ahead with applying some 500000 CST silicone as I'd planed and see what happens.
I decided to go ahead with my plan, I mean nothing I was planning was irreversible, so why not.
So I applied some 500000CST to the the pivot drum and spindle/ball bearing assemblies and buttoned it back up.
Long story short, after a couple of false starts (too much silicone so the arm didn't drop at all, then taking too much off so that it dropped too quickly), I finally got the correct amount so that the arm drops slowly on its own and softly settles in the groove with the correct tracking force from the weight.
So I'm wondering if I need to source a replacement damping pin and foam washer, or if I can simply leave it as is.
Will using the arm with viscous damping without those two items do any harm? Is there greater potential for mischief/damage by not installing a foam waser and damping pin? What say you folks?
So I was a bit surprised when I got the tonearm coupling housing disassembled and found that the damping pin was not in the pivot drum. The fact that there was no foam washer atop the spindle was no surprise.
So I figured I could simply close it all back up and forego the attempt at reviving the viscous damping, or just go ahead with applying some 500000 CST silicone as I'd planed and see what happens.
I decided to go ahead with my plan, I mean nothing I was planning was irreversible, so why not.
So I applied some 500000CST to the the pivot drum and spindle/ball bearing assemblies and buttoned it back up.
Long story short, after a couple of false starts (too much silicone so the arm didn't drop at all, then taking too much off so that it dropped too quickly), I finally got the correct amount so that the arm drops slowly on its own and softly settles in the groove with the correct tracking force from the weight.
So I'm wondering if I need to source a replacement damping pin and foam washer, or if I can simply leave it as is.
Will using the arm with viscous damping without those two items do any harm? Is there greater potential for mischief/damage by not installing a foam waser and damping pin? What say you folks?
Last edited:
I don't think it will matter , but the foam ws there to help with" adjusting" the pressure and drop rate of the arm. On top of the foam was a plastic washer that snaps onto the flanged post tip
( Shaped like a small "T" if looking at a cross section of the post. The plastic was he would"find" the flat spot of the barrel that hold the silicon and finish the final decent at a faster speed. The small missing pin was to limi the lift of the arm IIRC. Or its to keep the flat of the barrel in the correct location. Tightening the
arm post all the way also locks the arm against the flat spot from vertical movement when transporting .
I use a piece of neoprene I cut with the body of a pen and then sanded it down to the thickness needed.
EDIT: the 500000 CST grease is too thin you can mix it with some synthetic oil or a lower silicon oil like SUPER LUBE to the consistency that works best.
Athanasios
Well I've got the post tightened as far in as I can with my fingers and it all seems to be working well. Given what you've said I don't think there is any real danger in running it as it is, and if anything weird starts to happen I will simply return it to the way it was without the silicone.
Here is a video I made to show how it works as it stands now.
Here is a video I made to show how it works as it stands now.