Thanks for the additional info.
I wasn't being deceptive, I specifically used the term broken/busted. - Sadly, in this case the actual knob shaft is broken... so I fear a replacement is needed.
I'll keep looking.
I know you weren't being deceptive, I meant the remark to mean just that that particular question is like an iceberg, 90 % of it is hidden, with a non-trivial and difficult answer. A lot of the time it is an innocently asked question in good faith by someone who is unaware of the ramifications...
broken/busted is too generic usually, used interchangeably for a variety of faults by a variety of people.
Mentioning that "the actual knob shaft is broken" is MUCH more helpful,
VE haff our ways....
I'm not the fixer for nuttin.....
There are two general sizes of switch mechanisms. The difference is the spacing between the rods that hold the wafers and the size of the central shaft. I keep EVERYTHING from a unit I disassemble for parts, thus I noticed this trend.
You will need to find a rotary switch with the
same number of steps and a central shaft that is at least as long as the original (shortening it is easy, lengthening it is a bit harder) and transplant the works. As soon as you have it in your hand you will see what is done where and how that main portion is common to a lot of units.
I'm a bit low on rotator mechanisms right now, as I have farmed out all I collected... but there are a LOT of AK'ers with parts units out there, so all you really need to know is:
1. number of positions
2. distance between the two mounting holes on the oval plate at the front
2.a. the smaller has a 7/8 spacing, a 1/8 inch round shaft with two flats reducing the thickness to 0.082 inch
2.b. the larger has a 1.040 spacing, a 1/4 (0.230 really) inch shaft with two flats reducing the thickness to 0.175 inch
....... so the question is whether the internal shaft is 1/8 inch round or 1/4 inch round? HUGE difference in size....
3. approximate length of the internal shaft
