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Melted fuse light holder on a 2325 :-(

analog addict

analog addict

Glory or Death!
Subscriber
Bought HomerJSimpson's extra 2325 a bit ago and am just now trying to get it tuned up. It has a number of issues, including a non-OEM relay, burnt indicator lights, burnt fuse lights, and a really beat up wood case.

Some questions:

1) The $#!%$#@ fuse light plastic holder is melted to some degree. Despite getting the indicator light bar off and all the screws off the fuse light holder, (two up top with the plastic U connectors, and two on the back of the light bar) I can't get the light bar to come out. Am I going to need to carefully chisel melted plastic out until the bar comes out???:grumpy:

2) there's been differing info on the specs for the stereo indicator bulb. Some folks think it's a 12V 30mA, and others think it's a 8V 40 mA. The bulb that's currently in there is a 8V 40mA, along with all the rest of the indicator lights. What is the correct value?

3) How hard will it be to find the proper protection relay? How much will not having the OEM relay affect it's value? Is it worth the trouble?

4) This wooden case is really beat up, and actually cracked underneath so it's threatening to separate into 2 pieces. Is it worth the trouble and expense to try and fix up? Anyone know what the going rate is for one of these on e-pray as far as replacing it?

Thanks for any and all answers....:thmbsp:
 
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Hello,
If you can't get the light holder bar off, better leave it in and change the pilot lamps from the front by carefully removing the dial plastic from the front, you may need to replace the vellum behind the dial anyway.

As for the 'stereo' lamp, I've seen 12V 20mA lamps as well as 8V 40mA in the 2325, seems to be a matter of production year.
There are also 2 versions of pcb layouts for the speaker relay, one fits a pcb mount omron LY relay the other is slightly different....a photo of the relay board would help.

Helmut
 
Have an answer for #1, but...

Managed to get the fuse light bar out after some very careful prying....Some #@!#$! SOB put Stanley 8V 300mA bulbs in all the holders, effectively cooking all the plastic nicely.

I do have an additional question. Is it acceptable to use the 300mA bulbs in the signal strength and tuning indicators, or are they all the 8V 200mA bulbs?

Thanks.....

PS the top of the metal frame has 1975 4 4 stamped on it. Date of Production?
 
AA
I have a 2250B that someone put in fuses not lamps!!!
Look and see if that what's happened........
Sometimes using a hot knife or an old solder tip you can carefully dress up that plastic so the bar will go back in.

You might get some light coming out to deal with later.

I believe the 300ma were used on the signal meters, but haven't found my SM for the 2325 yet.

What relay did they use ?

Hope this helps
Barney
 
Pix....

here's some pix to help illustrate the idea....

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Cosmetically other than the case, this is a nice piece...

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Replace the fuse lamps with LED's. This will arrest the deterioration of the plastic bezel. Talk to this gentleman: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/member.php?u=12040

The relay should be an LY2-0-DC24. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=90275
Remove and toss the funky aftermarket relay if you like.

Edit note 11/03/08: Some 2325's apparently used a LY2-0-DC24 relay, and some used a MY2-02-DC24. Check before ordering! The 'MY' relays have the pins all oriented the same way and lined up in nice rows. The 'LY' relays have the 'NO', 'common', and 'NC' contacts all lined up in nice rows and oriented the same way, but the two coil solder pins are turned 90° from the orientation of the rest of the pins, and spaced slightly further apart than the others.
 
One last thing....

Any thoughts if the case is worth the trouble? Homer has graciously agreed to swap back the metal cover if I want to do so....:thmbsp:
 
I have the 2325 down for eight 8v/40ma bi-pins, one 8v/60ma metal collared black wire lamp, and eight 8v/200ma fuse lamps, yes, a pair of 300ma fuse lamps were in many of the 2325 meters, I have the Stanley's but it's probably wise to just stick with the 200ma's. That receiver will be sweet when it's done, Dave. :yes:

marantz_lamps_03.jpg
 
That lamp holder looks awful. I'd go the LED's but that my opinion. I've done my 2275 and it looks good.
 
AA
You might want someone to look over your power supply board.
The board looks cooked...... At the relay's mount, probably one reason for the relay's Mod to a holder .

Barney
 
I noticed that....

Oerets said:
AA
You might want someone to look over your power supply board.
The board looks cooked...... At the relay's mount, probably one reason for the relay's Mod to a holder .

Barney
Click to expand...

How hard is it to pull and recap the PS board? Will it need more than a recap?

Thanks.....
 
analog addict said:
How hard is it to pull and recap the PS board?
Click to expand...
Not very...remove the driver/heatsink assembly from that side. It'll give you more room to work.
Will it need more than a recap?
Click to expand...
A relay, perhaps? :scratch2:

Edit: Might be a good idea to replace the relay driver transistor, and you WILL have to double-check the relay circuit dropping resistor to see that it wasn't changed when the last guy swapped that P&B relay for the original one.
 
Update....

Got the LED replacements, and they look great! Not cheap at over $4 apiece, but well worth it.

Homer and I tag teamed the PS board relay and cap replacement, and with two people, the whole job took about 30 minutes. I have one more issue with the tuner/FM section, but I'll start a new thread for that if there's nothing in the archives....

Before...

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After....

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And a few of the LED effect...Pardon the crappy images, but the background ambient light makes this difficult....


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Look how bright these suckers are!

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Looks like you're missing the protection diode next to the relay. Needs to be in there to keep from smoking the relay driver transistor.
 
analog addict said:
Any thoughts if the case is worth the trouble? Homer has graciously agreed to swap back the metal cover if I want to do so....:thmbsp:
Click to expand...

A wooden case -- if you can find the correct (larger) size (not the common WC-22) -- will run you $150 or more on ebay. Your case is fixable (I've seen worse) but will take some time and patience. Having refinished and refurbed several Marantz cases I think they are worth the effort but I have better woodworking skills than electrical skills. :D

Frankly, unless you need to improve the over WAF of the unit, I'd take the offer of the metal case and call it a day. :yes: (Even though they sound better with a wooden case!) :D
 
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