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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

E'Wavers shouldn't rule out the smaller woofers, for sure.

Skywave's using 8" in one of his systems, and VTH 10", as I recall. Cuthien has an open baffle implementation, and I've just done Advents, approximately 10".

It's getting difficult to keep track of what everybody's building with around here, now ...

[ ... in the AK Speaker forum's biggest thread.... :p: ]

Yes, its growing larger than most ALL of the other topics that have been made into a sticky,:yes: I really think this thread is ripe, and shows no signs of slowing down.

I will be a larger contributer once my move is over, and I have time and space to play around.

Russellc
 
Back to the EconoWave

Finally finished the Trusonic 80FR replacement project in the first pair of cabinets I made. A Goldwood GW-8028 woofer and Dayton ND16FA-6 tweet made them sound much sweeter than the 80FR's ever sounded, and did it for less than $24 per cabinet, xover parts excluded. The 80FR's should sell for between $200-300 per pair. Nice work, if you can get it.

Unloaded the Trusonic parts from the remaining pair of Baronet clones that were in my upstairs office area, and moved it all back into the garage. The woofers that will be used with this iteration are JBL 2214H's, used in the 4425 monitor.

The Cabinets are not tuned, since the Baronet's opening into the horn section on the rear is way too large (approximately 6 inches by 17). Measured the FR's anyway, and they are posted to show the response. The right channel is roughly 10-12 db stronger than the left (the level was changed to get the same max for the readout). It seems to be the Marantz 2275 that is being used for the preamp and HF amplifier and this will need to be tracked down and fixed before making meaningful measurements. Also the horn outputs on the back will be sealed up, and the internal baffles trimmed to alleviate the two boxes within one box effect.

When the cabinets are sealed, they will be properly tuned via ports on the baffle to enhance the bass of the JBL woofers. I am sure they can do much better than these measurements. The FR's shown are probably looking more like the 2214's would do on an open baffle. The first pic is with the Trusonics drivers, the second with the EconoWave drivers back down in the JackLab (the garage).

Edit: Got the offset channel to channel fixed. Had a broken wire on one side of the volume control loudness taps.
 

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Looks like they'll mate well with EconoWave, Jack.

JBL crossed them at 1.2 kHz in 4425:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Network Schematics/3124 Network.pdf

I don't know what the two 100-Ohm resistors across the woofer do, other than tame something probably. I'd use them.

The highpass its quasi-three way, with (somewhat) independent control of the mids and highs from the single HF driver. It might be a fun adventure to make EconoWave play that.... ;)
 
The 2214h's were being driven WFO, with no crossovers at all. I am sure that cutting them off at 1.2 KHz will make the last peak at about 2 KHz go away, and maybe the 2 100 ohm resistors will tame some of the earlier peaks. What troubled me was the sharp drop in bass at 40 Hz, with a linear decrease from 40 down to 20. The 4412's I measured were much better, and the 2214H should be so, as well. Getting the cabinets tuned to around 35-40 should help extend the lower bass. I calculated their volume once, and as memory serves, it seems like they were about 3 cubic feet.

Do you know where JBL tuned the 4425? Probably their tuning and LF crossover would be the ideal starting place. I may play with their MId/Hi adjustment simply to see what it really does. But for an Econo project, it is probably gilding the lily. The existing EconoWave is pretty much ideal for my tastes. In fact, I can feel it already. Another pair of "keepers." Where will they go? :confused:

Thanks for the post of the 4425 crossovers. That will help.
 
well , boyz 'n' girliez :banana:

few days ago I received quote from local (Serbia) supplier/dealer for JBL products ; I can have a pair of E'guides for 28 Euros (~43USD) , with two months for shipping ; they just don't have them in central EU stock ( Denmark) , and air shipping will result in outrageous price :thmbsp:

I have few friends in USA , but I just don't want to bug them with that operation , so I'll order them that way .....

anyway - God knows that I don't need more speakers ( already functional ones , and several combos sitting on shelves ) , but I just can't resist ........

besides some of finest 12" Philips beauties I already have , can you recommend any Eminence or Selenium 12" or 15" driver to mate with JBL cheapies ?

I'll certainly look for D220Ti , but I'll try them also with D205Ti , which I already have ;

funny - I'm using them as helper tweets for my RCA's (MLTL) ...... crossed with 1uF VQ , with little horns from APT80

anyway - tnx again for great fun thread ........
 
Do you know where JBL tuned the 4425? Probably their tuning and LF crossover would be the ideal starting place.
4425 Studio Monitors are 16" W x 11.5" D x 25" H external. There are two 2.5" ports with 6" long ducts.

BB6P says that's ~2 cuft, and they are tuned to 40.2 Hz.

L100t/t3 is probably a better model of your project, being larger in volume, 14.5" W x 13" D x 36" H external. The single rear 4" port has a 5" long duct.

BB6P says they're ~3 cuft, tuned to 36.4 Hz. F3 = 38.4 Hz, F6 = 33.3 Hz, and F10 = 28.9 Hz. Two 3" ports at 6.63" will achieve the same tuning, which, from the curves, appears to be quite a good one.

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical Sheet/L100t3 ts.pdf

I can have a pair of E'guides for 28 Euros (~43USD) , with two months for shipping ; they just don't have them in central EU stock ( Denmark) , and air shipping will result in outrageous price :thmbsp:
That's about what it cost to get them to Ttan98 in Australia, and we did it in less than two weeks. The pair is light enough to airmail inexpensively.... :yes:
 
I'm sitting here, watching glue dry.

Thanks for the info Zilch. After plugging in all the variables into WinISD, 38 HZ was the tuning of choice. And a guess was made at how much filler was left from the internal baffles, after they were chopped out. Looks to be about 3.18 cubic feet after subtracting the fudge factors. Two 3 inch ports roughly 6 inches long were added to the front baffles.

I had ordered a pair of XLR mic cables to couple the CX-3400 low output to a new Crown amplifier, but didn't expect them until tomorrow. The UPS guy just walked up the drive with a package from Parts Express. They lived up to their name.

Now, all that is necessary is for the glue to dry, so I can add back the fibreglass that was removed for the butchery, and finish the rest of the inside. Glad that True Value sells hot water heater blankets. I have used a few of them over the years.

Tomorrow, they should be singing, and the lessons about time alignment will begin. Can't wait for school to start.

Added some pix of the mods.
 

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Heh. POWER tools! :banana:

The remains of the interior baffle are adding some bracing. :thmbsp:

Good suggestion on the water heater blanket fiberglass. Duct wrap's good for smaller cabs, too, and the coated HVAC plenum fiberglass damping, reversed. :yes:

Can't wait to hear how they sound tomorrow; they just look "right...." :guitar:
 
More measurements On Econowaveguide

This time I made 2 measuremnts when the the econowaveguide is mounted on the JBL enclosure. One for B&C DE250 compression driver and the other Selenium D220Ti.

Note that for the selenium D220Ti, there is a dip around 2.8Khz which is not so pronounce if the waveguide is mounted in free space.
 

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Yes, Ttan98, thank you.

In detail, performance will vary with how they are mounted, as is true will all horns/waveguides. Under real operating conditions, they become part of a system including other variables.

If you are using the same filter on both, I would call them "interchangeable," at least insofar as frequency response is concerned.... :yes:
 
Hopefully this wasn't posted before but I see MCM is selling some new Pyle horns for cheap, model# PH612, they run $9.45 if you use source code 8SC208 in the shopping cart, Dave.

MCM 53-970

53-970.jpg
 
Speaking of other horn/waveguide's.

As a general rule( is there such a thing? ) will any of this information transfer to another type of wave guide? ( noob question alert ) such as the Smith DSH?

there's a noob whose trying to learn from THE sages.

John

Back to lurking, and reading, and ?learning?
 
As a general rule( is there such a thing? ) will any of this information transfer to another type of wave guide? ( noob question alert ) such as the Smith DSH?
In detail, every horn/waveguide/driver combination is different, and requires different compensation to produce flat response. The passive filters in this thread are optimized for the specific EconoWave combination of D220ti and the JBL $9.90 waveguide. Similars MAY behave similarly, as Jack showed with D210Ti.

Is the optimum compensation the same for BMS drivers, JBL drivers, Smith horns or Butt Cheeks? Nope, custom filters must be developed for each of them. You can see in the early pages of this thread what's involved in accomplishing that.... :yes:
 
Looks VERY similar to the JBL waveguide! Anyone have one for comparison?


Russellc

I noticed this below the image:
*Image is for illustrative purposes only."

I'd bet they borrowed the image, thinking Econowave = Kleenex of ABS waveguides....or re-branded the JBL.
 
I hoped to have the clones singing yesterday, but sometimes if isn't for bad luck, you might have no luck at all. Got both baffles installed after padding the bottoms and back of the cabs, and fired up the left side. Wow, they now have JBL sized bass. It didn't have the two 100 ohm resistors, but still looked pretty impressive.

Fired up the right side, and "Oh, no, woe is me." The bass response absolutely sucked. The first FR shown is the response of the left on top, and the right on the bottom. :wtf:

I first swapped the drive wires on each speaker, but the problem remained in the right side. Swapped the two 2214H's. Problem still in right side. The "weak" driver from the right was now strong in the left cab. Had to be in the cabinet, and probably an air leak. Spent all day removing the fibreglass from the back, sealing the glue joints with silicone rubber, and waiting for it to cure. Still bad. Checked the front baffle seal, and found some leaks in the corners, Stuffed them with plumbers putty this morning, and now both cabinets make JBL bass. The second FR's show the two of them, with the crossover working.

Now that the low end works, I dialed the CX-3400 to 1.2 KHz for the low pass, and 3 KHz for the high pass according to the front panel legends. The top FR in the third pic is the result. Again :wtf:

Apparently there is one set of rules for drivers crossed passively, and another for those driven actively. 1.2 KHz was chosen to cross the woofer, and the tweeter was chosen to be 3 KHz in the first iteration, due to a large bump in the D220Ti's response at around 1.6 KHz. But when driven by a very low impedance source, the D220Ti responds differently than it does with the passive crossover elements driving it. That means that the bump at 1.6KHz will need to be dealt with differently in the bi-amped configuration. The bottom pic in the third FR shows the response with the high pass dialed to the same value as the low pass. More work will be necessary to see if the crossover values used here are ideal. And perhaps adding resistance to cut the tweeter output will allow moving the high pass to compensate for the 1.6KHz bump. But resistance is not the same as capacitive/inductive reactance. Time will tell.
 

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The second FR's show the two of them, with the crossover working.
And what delicious bass response it is, apparently.... :D

Here's my method for testing/finding cabinet leaks: plug the ports (if present) and run a 30 Hz sinewave test tone. Listen around all joints and seals using a cheap plastic stethoscope with the bell removed. If and where it's leaking, there'll be big "motorboat" audible. I mark where to fix with blue painters' tape.

It surprises me that you're using separate filter frequencies with CX3400 for two-way, though thinking about it, that's clearly possible by using it in three-way mode. I just use it conventionally, two-way, with a single frequency set by the one knob, 24 dB/octave, and dial the frequency within a desired range for the optimum tradeoff between HF and LF capabilities.

Additionally, the HF will virtually always require external passive compensation to play flat, due to the nature of compression drivers and CD horns/waveguides. My basic tool for that is Altec's adjustable "Bridged-T" filter of late; a generic version of Parham's Pi-Speaker compensation filter should serve as well. Additionally, active, there are parametrics, graphic, and AutoEQ available in the DEQ2496 to assist with the task.... :yes:

Apparently there is one set of rules for drivers crossed passively, and another for those driven actively. 1.2 KHz was chosen to cross the woofer, and the tweeter was chosen to be 3 KHz in the first iteration, due to a large bump in the D220Ti's response at around 1.6 KHz. But when driven by a very low impedance source, the D220Ti responds differently than it does with the passive crossover elements driving it. That means that the bump at 1.6KHz will need to be dealt with differently in the bi-amped configuration. The bottom pic in the third FR shows the response with the high pass dialed to the same value as the low pass.
It's the same rules, actually. Recall that we used the higher filter frequency on the HF as part of its passive compensation. With the active approach, that's not part of the scheme, is all; the frequency and slope are fixed.

Looking at your last measurement with the single highpass and lowpass filter frequency, the task is clear: with the proper compensation filter on the HF driver, that system will play flat. It's now just a matter of how flat you want it.... :thmbsp:
 
Originally posted by dgwojo

Hopefully this wasn't posted before but I see MCM is selling some new Pyle horns for cheap, model# PH612, they run $9.45 if you use source code 8SC208 in the shopping cart, Dave.

MCM 53-970

Dave, I went to the Pyle Audio site, and they show the same pics, and list size as 6.4" hi by 11.9" long. Virtually identical to the JBL waveguide. I ordered a pair of them from MCM, since I needed 4 each 100 ohm 20 watt resistors. I will check them out.

Originally posted by Zilch

It surprises me that you're using separate filter frequencies with CX3400 for two-way, though thinking about it, that's clearly possible by using it in three-way mode. I just use it conventionally, two-way, with a single frequency set by the one knob, 24 dB/octave, and dial the frequency within a desired range for the optimum tradeoff between HF and LF capabilities.

Yes, that is exactly how I did it. Since we wanted two separate crossover frequencies (or thought we did), it seemed intuitive to use the CX-3400 in three way mode where two xover frequencies can be controlled. I didn't realize that that wouldn't work when the driving impedance becomes essentially zero ohms. Changes things, doesn't it?

Originally posted by Zilch

Additionally, active, there are parametrics, graphic, and AutoEQ available in the DEQ2496 to assist with the task....

Yeah, but then we aren't really talking Econo anymore. Even adding just the CX-3400 removes the Econo tag from the description for me.

Originally posted by Zilch

It's the same rules, actually. Recall that we used the higher filter frequency on the HF as part of its passive compensation. With the active approach, that's not part of the scheme, is all; the frequency and slope are fixed.

Maybe it is only semantics, but things are different between passive and active. Passive accomplishes the roll off of fixed amplitude signal by using variable impedance frequency sensitive devices which drive the speaker through their combined impedance. Active drives the speakers with a variable amplitude signal at essentially zero ohms impedance.

Putting a fixed voltage of 1 volt across a 1 ohm resistor yields a current of 1 ampere. Putting a constant current source of 1 ampere through a 1 ohm resistor yields a voltage of 1 volt. Both situations seem identical as is, but change the resistor value in the former, and the current will change. In the latter, the voltage will change. Ohms law is at work in both cases, but using a constant current source is quite different than using a constant voltage source. Different rules?? Or maybe just semantics? You see it one way, I see it another way. We can disagree, can't we?

Edit: As noted above, I ordered 4 each 100 Ohm resistors to put across the 2214H's in the final version, which will be an EconoWave, meaning passive crossovers. In the Bi-Amped version, the 100 Ohm resistors should have absolutely no effect, since the woofer is driven with a zero ohm source. Adding them will only require a little more current out of the amplifier, which it will provide, no sweat. Also the Wayne Parham HF compensation technique should be changed to one resistor in series with the tweeter, since adding the second resistor to lower the effective impedance back to the original value will no longer be necessary. The effective impedance value in the active configuration is essentially zero ohms. Hard to change that be adding 25 ohms across it, isn't it?

Tweeter compensation filters that are added in parallel with the tweeter will not be effective due to the zero ohm driving impedance, but those used in series should still work. Using the resistor in series with the tweeter may provide enough impedance for parallel filters to work, but the resistor is not frequency sensitive like a passive crossover. HMMMM... Different rules?
 
Tweeter compensation filters that are added in parallel with the tweeter will not be effective due to the zero ohm driving impedance, but those used in series should still work. Using the resistor in series with the tweeter may provide enough impedance for parallel filters to work, but the resistor is not frequency sensitive like a passive crossover. HMMMM... Different rules?
Yup, that's why the Valencia/BMS comp filter is a parallel notch in series with the driver; I developed it for use with active crossovers as well as passives. Interestingly, the transfer function of the "Bridged-T" is virtually identical.

Serial notch does nothing against a voltage source without some impedance to work with. ESR of a series cap can be sufficient, even, though.... :yes:
 
I "think" I'm on the verge, of the precipice, of beginning to grok the design and alteration of filters etc.

I'm re-reading Weems, again.

This , and the indignia class thread have provided more understanding of how a passive crossover works, than any other reading I've done on the net, or elsewhere

I've seen references to "walling" jigs, Mic's, phantom preamps, but will admit that when I looked at the searches originally, I didn't begin to understand what I've had layed out before my on this forum.

Most of the stuff is beginning to make sense now... Is there a " reference " set up I should aim for?

Of course, I know you don't get sumpin' fer nutin', but I'd like not to spend more than required.

Is there a thread here I haven't found yet that deals with test equip I can parse, instead of maybe reinventing the wheel here?
 
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