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Fisher 600 Stereophonic tube receiver

Johncan

Record collector
I just bought a Fisher 600 stereophonic tube receiver and am looking for information on it.

Here is what I know. I was told it was only built for one year and that was 1958. It has FM (mono), AM, phono, tape, and aux. It uses 12ax7 tubes, a 5ar4 rectifier, and 7189A output tubes.

I don't know any other specs. Does anyone have a owner's manual or know any more information on it?

Also, It does not have a case. What Fisher case will fit?

Thanks!

John
 
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With 7189 output tubes, it was probably rated about 20 watts per channel.

I see it's listed in the Sams Photofact index - #932 - Servicer. This would be a schematic diagram only, no detailed information.
 
what are the measurments the opening and depth the case would need to be? Also I beleive, (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that EL-84's (6BQ5's) are drop in replacements for the 7189s. Are you going to recap it yourself? I'm recapping a Fisher right now that I can't find a schematic for, so I'm just taking it slow and replacing one at a time. Have you tried it (or them) out yet? Jay
 
I have one set up in the main rig. It sounds wonderful! No hums or hissing from the Cornwalls. I don't think this one needs recapping right now. The seller gave me a service manual for it. Cracker has the other one right now... I think he may be setting it up today.

I will measure the opening and depth as soon as I can find where my daughter moved the measuring tape.

Thanks for the lead on these.

John
 
The 600 was the first stereo receiver that Fisher made. It was available for more than one year...I have a 1960 brochure that still has the 600 listed. I also have a "test" that Hi-Fi Review conducted of the 600 and the Harman Kardon TA-230...which were touted as the first stereo receivers available.

The companion unit to the 600 was the 500-S...that unit was available for only about a year as they are very rare.

You are looking at about 18 WPC RMS with the 600. The 600 and the 500-S are a 1/2" narrower than the other Fisher stereo receivers...so you will have to find a dedicated case or make one yourself. The case for the 600 and 500-S was not made of wood...it was a metal case that was painted to look like leather.

As for the 7189's...you need to look at the plate voltage in the 600 to see if the 6BQ5 can handle it. Fisher tended to run the plate voltage on the 7189 amps in the 365-400V range...but some come in a little lower. I personally have had no problems running 6BQ5's at around 360-370V...but higher than that I would opt for either NOS 7189's or the Sovtek EL-84M which can handle plate voltage up to the lower 400's.

The early stereo Fisher units are lots of fun...but kind of live in the shadow of the 1962-1964 components. A full resto and you will be living in sonic bliss...
 
BTW...so you don't have to run through the "female filing system" to find your tape...Fisher lists the dimensions as:

17" x 14 1/2" x 4 13/16" @35 1/2 pounds.
 
Glad you like them. I thought it was cool to see a tube rectified Fisher (stereo):thmbsp: I'll dig through my old cases and see if anything is even close. What speakers is cracker using?
 
The 1961 Radio Shack catalog, besides the "high end" 800 AM/FM stereo receiver lists the TA-600. I am guessing this is the same receiver you now have?
FisherTA600andfriends.jpg


Not too much info in the R/S catalog. I left a few of the TA 600's friends in the picture so you could reminisce about what buying hi-fi was like when I was 3 years old

I suspect you'll like the 600 a bit more than your new Wave 8's! :-)


For completeness, here's the 800 from the same catalog. These receivers were meant for the pre-MPX world of AM/FM simulcast stereo (one channel on AM, the other on FM).

attachment.php
 
A nice piece of history to own... those cannot be too numerous.

What's that round, sideways thingy in the center of the chassis next to/in front of a couple of the IF cans?
 
mhardy6647 said:
A nice piece of history to own... those cannot be too numerous.

What's that round, sideways thingy in the center of the chassis next to/in front of a couple of the IF cans?

That is the "whistle" filter for the AM section.
 
Yep I have the other one and have a couple of issues that I have questions on.

When I first powered up the unit I noticed that one side was louder than the other so with the balance I was able ot play it.

I checked the tubes and they tested ok, not hte greatest but ok. These are all orginal
Then after checking tubes I noticed when really warmed up the right sepaekr really started crackling as if it was a pot. I turned and tapped on everything but nothing changed.

Could this be a cap going? Is Johns second unti needing some recapping done?

Also with my tube tester how do I use the "zero meter" knob.
 
Crackling can be several things...a bad resistor, cap, etc.

Did you clean all of the tube sockets and controls before powering up??? This is a VERY important step that most people ignore. Dirty tube sockets and pots (espiecially control pots such as AC and DC balance controls) can cause a multitude of problems. People have no problems bringing equipment up on a variac for what seems like 22 years to me...but they never seem to clean the tube sockets and controls before doing so.

IMNSHO the unit needs recapping anyway. It is full of 45-48 year old film caps, and electrolytic caps. A complete overhaul is needed for the unit to operate properly and safely. I do not like having the anxiety of a fully stock vintage tube amp going up in smoke in my house. It does happen, and luckily most people are home when it does happen..we have all left equipment on and gone to the store for a few minutes...completely overhauled equipment has much less of a chance of catching fire than bone stock units.

Bone stock units also (but not always) have a tendency to sound overtly warm...and this is why vintage equipment sometimes gets a bad rap.
 
I did not clean the tube sockets and or the pots. Not exactly sure how to being the first working tube unit that I have had in any type of possesion.

Still working on details about recapping. I thought about doing that (not to hard).

So when people say this neeeds a going through what do you guys suggest doing?
Recapping
Cleaning Tube Sockets (how)
Cleaning pots (how do you clean control pots?)
Anything else
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of tubes :thmbsp: I can only tell you how I do it, which seems to work, but may not be the best. First I would make a map and take out all the tubes. Then I would just generally clean the chassis up with some compressed air (not too high a pressure) and a nylon brush. While the tubes are out, I would spray a little de-oxit on the pins and brush them with a soft brass bristle brush. For cleaning the sockets I spray a tiny bit of de-oxit in the pin holes and let it soak overnite. Then I use and old tube with de-oxit on the pins and install and remove it several times. Then a little air. Pull the knobs and clean them with soap and water. While they are off spray each controls "ineards" with de-oxit and briskley work them back and forth. All the controls, not just the pots. Then I make a list of capacitor values and voltages. While making the list you will be poking around under there pretty good so look at the resistors closely for any signs of burntness. I don't fool with resistors that look ok because I beleive the ones that are in there have a lot to do with the tone of the amp. If you do have some that are crispy try to find the right ones in the original type IE carbon etc.. The caps I just replace one at a time. All the Fishers I've fooled with have had plenty of room underneath for seperates to replace the multi-section cans. I just leave the cans in place disconnected (for looks). That's a pretty basic summary of what I do. Let me know if I can help in any way, Jay BTW be careful when cleaning or handling the tubes as the numbers and logos can rub off real easy.

Edit-Be sure to read the safety thread. Tubes run on REAL juice and if the caps have open bleed resistors they can hold enough juice to give you a rusty zipper, if you know what I mean. Allways check circuits with a meter even if it's been unplugged for a week. Try not to work with both hands either. Lots of guys keep one hand in their pocket. :smoke:
 
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El84/6bq5 is not a drop in replacement for 7189. 7189 is designed run at a higher voltage and current. If you were to sub an el84 in an amp designed for a 7189, it would be short lived. You can do the opposite however, use a 7189 in place of an el84/6bq5.
During the period this receiver was offered FM/AM stereo was trying to break out. That is each channel was broadcast simultaneously on both bands. Of course it was short lived.
 
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