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RekOkut B 12 H (B12H) Turntable - Who Knows?

BruceRPA

BruceRPA

AK Subscriber
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I just picked up an interesting turntable that is in pretty good condition. I was told was used in a local campus radio station at one time. It is built like a tank and has a motor that is about the size of a Maytag washing machine. It came with a Pickering XV 15 cartridge and it seems to play OK. It does need a new idler wheel because there is a noticeable flat spot thump that I can hear and feel. It's small enough that I can hardly see it but it is bad enough to make it worthy of being replaced. I understand that there is someone that rebuilds or replaces idler wheels. Does anyone know who that might be? Also, any information, advice or comments about this TT will be appreciated. I think that it will just be a museum piece but I could be persuaded otherwise if it proves to be good enough. I do have several other direct drive and belt drive TTs so this is by no means my only one. I just don't know anything about this one.

Thanks in advance for any information that you can contribute.
 

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I have three of those myself. When mounted to a heavy plinth
and properly set up with a modern tonearm they are fantastic and in my opinion superior to the Garrard 301 (I also own)
that gets such rave press.The idler wheel can be rebuilt by terrys rubber rollers or ed crocket.
It is not just a museum piece unless you want it to be.
 
Also, the B12H was made from 1954 thru about 1964, the one
you have is a later version, post 1960.
The H stands for hysteresis motor.
The list price for the table in 1955 with no base or arm was
129.00, the most expensive 12" table you could buy at that time.
It was also offered in a 16" version for 225.00.
 
Couldn’t agree more with Orthosonic’s assessment and recommendations for your B-12(H). You’ve got a top entry in the field of “Big Idlers” of that era with this turntable.

In attacking the issue of mechanically induced noise from two ends: 1-isolating what transmission sources you can and 2- sinking what you can’t into an energy absorbing mass plinth, one can bring about a dedicated platform where that high torque Papst motor driving a heavy platter in flywheel fashion, yields stunning results when coupled with a modern tonearm. Results that are well beyond its intended design performance.

On the isolation front – in addition to the idler wheel rebuild, make a close inspection of the motor mount bushings. If the brass sleeves have been crushed from overtightening or the rubber grommets show signs of deteriorating, they can still be sourced. Also I’ve heard that there are Rek-O-Kut metal motor drive pulleys/spindles on some models floating about. Can’t say for certain that they’d match up in shaft size and rpm design for your motor, but it might be worth adding to a “watch list” for parted out listings. (I find the Bakelite or plastic pulleys/spindles to develop a slightly fibrous surface with wear on my Rek-O-Kuts.)

Here’s a link to a helpful “how to” page on bootstrapping Rek-O-Kuts into the modern age. The author is anonymous, so I’ve taken to calling him the “Lone Ranger” (Who was that masked man?)

http://members.myactv.net/~je2a3/roktips.htm
 
Wow! Thanks orthophonic and Mopic5 for the great information and the outstanding link.:thmbsp: It looks like this could be the beginnings of an interesting and fun project. Can you fine folks offer any opinions about the tone arm that is shown in the pictures? The round knob on the top is engraved with "RekOcut Micropoise". I have not played around with the settings yet so I don't know how to adjust the tracking weight and anti-skate. The tracking weight looks to be simple enough but I have never seen an anti-skate adjustment like this one has. I also have not figured out what that round knob on the top of the tone arm does yet. Again, any information will be appreciated.

Thanks again.
 
The Rek-o-Kut arm is high in mass and will require a low
compliance cartridge, a stanton 500AL or Shure SC35 will
work in that arm, but it is best to replace the arm with
something more modern.
It uses an early anti-skate device, rather crude, and only
works at tracking forces above 2.5 or 3 grams.
 
Thanks again for the advice. :thmbsp: If it is going to require a new tone arm to make this worthwhile I am not sure that I want to invest the time, effort and money into this right now. I have too many other irons in the fire and this looks like it could be a rather big project to do it right. I will have to think about it for a while.:dunno:

OK, I have a friend that has a marble and granite kitchen counter top company. How would a base made of a block of black marble or granite work?:yes:

See what happens? This could really get out of hand, couldn't it?:headscrat

Seriously, I am going to have to shelve the project for now. The problem now becomes that I am nearly out of storage space. What to do....what to do.... ?:scratch2:
 
Hysteresis motor

Gentlemen,
That motor on Ultra-Hog's TT looks like an Ashland hysteresis.
I have a K-33 with the normal 4 pole motor & I'd like to replace it with the Ashland. Is it doable or am I looking for trouble?
If the Ashland won't work, would the Pabst hysteresis motor be a better fit?
Frank
 
>I have a friend that has a marble and granite kitchen counter top company
See if he is in the market for a side-line, a nice heavy stone plinth is just what the doctor ordered.
 
Ashland motor

Thanks to a Ashland service rep, I now know the Ashland hysteresis motor as used on the idler drive B-12H had a larger shaft than the belt drive motors.
To upgrade my K-33 I need to look for the Pabst hysteresis that has the smaller spindle (motor shaft).
 
I now own the table that Ultra-Hog posted. All I can say is these things are work horses. It is a great table. They are a worthy project.
 
I was just about to mention that POS looked kinda familiar.. :D

I still wish I would have realized what that was the second I saw it.. I'd be the owner instead.. LOL..
 
Here is a photo of the same table with a Grado arm:

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similost said:
So which one does better sitting next to the speakers David? The Thorens or the ROC?
Click to expand...

I think it is all about the arm more than the table. The SME on the Thorens is a little more resonance proof then the Grado on the ROC. I now have The ROC at work so it is no longer an issue since the speakers are across the room. :D
 
That was what I was kind of getting at, which arm did better with vibrations, but then again, the table also helps pick some of that up and transfers it to the arm too...

Sure wish I could manage a table at work too.. I could do that, but a hassle bringing albums back and forth, and also lugging everything op to my office...
 
similost said:
That was what I was kind of getting at, which arm did better with vibrations, but then again, the table also helps pick some of that up and transfers it to the arm too...

Sure wish I could manage a table at work too.. I could do that, but a hassle bringing albums back and forth, and also lugging everything op to my office...
Click to expand...

I don't listen to a lot of vinyl at work but it is nice to have it when I am in the mood. I mainly have the cassette deck going or Pandora.

The fun thing about the cassettes is they all were recorded from vinyl.
 
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I completely missed the replies to this thread. Actually, it is kind of funny how I stumbled on it. I am working on a Miracord 625 for a friend and it needs a new idler wheel. I used Google to search and found this thread because of the mentions of Idler wheel. Orthophonic mentioned two sources that can rebuild Idlers; Terrys rubber rollers and Ed Crockett. I found Terrys Rubber Rollers but I can not find Ed Crocket. Can someone point me in the right direction? I also found Kens Electronics, www.kenselectronics.com . Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I am thrilled that the TT has gone to a good home where it can be properly restored and appreciated. Enjoy Spartanmanor! :thmbsp:
 
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