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SX-750 in real wallnut

agger

more Pioneers :-)
I got a SX-750 cheap with a total beaten up plastic veneer. Electrical its ok, needed some cleaning and some new lights.
So I decided that this one would be a good object to do my first veneer job with real american wallnut.
I stripped off the venyl completely and glued the new veneer on the wood, gave it a satin finish twice. I think it looks pretty nice now, but I'm not 100% satisfied. The clamping needs to be improoved next time, at some places the veneer is not totally plane. Also the veneer cutting could be improoved.
 

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Agger,

That looks very sweet. I totally love it. Be proud.

I can understand what you're saying though. I reveneered a CT-F950, SX-650, SA-6800, and TX-6800. Believe me, you'll get better the more you do it.

Paul
 
I want to do that as well to a couple pioneer receivers. Can you give some details on what you used? Paper backed or not, heat activated glue or whatever you used. I'd appreciated it.
 
Thanks for the compliments. Yes, it looks very nice now. It's not the Pioneer original color, a bit to grey and not such a warm brown. But maybe that changes when it gets older. (?)
I like to work with wood, but this was the first time I tried veneering.

retreatwi said:
I want to do that as well to a couple pioneer receivers. Can you give some details on what you used? Paper backed or not, heat activated glue or whatever you used. I'd appreciated it.

As veneer I used plain wallnut veneer 0.5mm thick. I got 4 sheets 2m x 0.3m for about $10 on ebay. So thats enough for more receivers or some speakers. I took this because it was cheap and the sheets were not too small.

On the top and the sides I peeled off completely the venyl. For the sides I cutted the veneer in a bit bigger piece than needed, on the top I made a matching sheet, because the top of the side panels have extra veneer. All this was glued with normal wood cement. I took another wood plate and clamped it against it, let it sit over night. After that, I cutted off the overhang of veneer. This I found critical, even with a very sharp knife. You need to be careful not to damage the veneer a get some chips off where it should stay.

For the front woody pieces and the side tops: The thin wallnut colored film peels off easily, below this is a thicker plastics material which is good tight to the wood, so I let it there. For these pieces I took contact cement for the veneer. Worked also good, and is faster!

Greetings, Agger
 
As an amateur woodworker,I understand it when you say you're not totally satisfied.We always see the flaws/mistakes that no one else ever notices.I have to agree with all of the other people who've commented on your work.Your work looks awfully good.Don't be too hard on yourself.
I owned a TX-9100 and an SA-9100 back in the early 70's.Both had the walnut veneer and if memory serves,the shade wasn't much different than yours.These were called "oiled walnut" units back then.Used Old English on them all the time.
If you have the time and enjoy doing this kind of work,try some experimenting with the glueing and finishes on test pieces.Buy some more veneer(doesn't have to be walnut) and grab some 1/2-3/4 " MDF to use as a substrate.Practice with different glues and learn how to get the bubbles out.Then you can try different stains and finishes.Tung oil is a fun one to try.Applying it and rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool makes for a nice satin look and feel.
 
dew042 said:
It looks good, however, I need you to send it to me for more detailed analysis.

dew
:D :no: :no: I don't want to take the risk of shipment damage! You can make a visit to Germany and analyse it here :boink:
 
Anytime I use walnut veneer, I give it a coat of Formby's wood conditioner (so stain will adhere evenly) then I stain it with Formby's walnut stain (rubbing the stain in with soft cloth & wiping off excess). I believe you have a choice of 3 walnut shades in Formby's. It gives it the rich walnut color and brings out the beautiful grain and gets rid of the gray.

agger said:
Thanks for the compliments. Yes, it looks very nice now. It's not the Pioneer original color, a bit to grey and not such a warm brown. But maybe that changes when it gets older. (?)
I like to work with wood, but this was the first time I tried veneering.



As veneer I used plain wallnut veneer 0.5mm thick. I got 4 sheets 2m x 0.3m for about $10 on ebay. So thats enough for more receivers or some speakers. I took this because it was cheap and the sheets were not too small.

On the top and the sides I peeled off completely the venyl. For the sides I cutted the veneer in a bit bigger piece than needed, on the top I made a matching sheet, because the top of the side panels have extra veneer. All this was glued with normal wood cement. I took another wood plate and clamped it against it, let it sit over night. After that, I cutted off the overhang of veneer. This I found critical, even with a very sharp knife. You need to be careful not to damage the veneer a get some chips off where it should stay.

For the front woody pieces and the side tops: The thin wallnut colored film peels off easily, below this is a thicker plastics material which is good tight to the wood, so I let it there. For these pieces I took contact cement for the veneer. Worked also good, and is faster!

Greetings, Agger
 
You can 'warm' it up easy enough. . .

If it were me I would start with an equalizer stain, sap stain or whatever you choose to call it using a red and yellow base for brilliance or by adding red and yellow to your walnut color stain. After staining it to that color then set it using a 'wash coat' (50/50 solvent/sealer) then continue with your regular walnut stain or glaze until you get the darkness and depth you want. Then finish sealing it until you are ready for your final coats of topcoat. . .

You can do the same thing with 'tung oil' and conventional stains just remember the red and yellow added to the walnut stain will give you the 'warm' or the 'brilliance' you want. . .By brilliance I mean 'life'. . .you add 'life' to the color. . .

Walnut is gorgeous but sometimes needs help to get the look you want. . .

Ask Sherwin Williams . . .they'll explain it to you. . . I have an application lab here in Columbus for SW. . . Watching the furniture guys is a treat. . .
 
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