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The new budget speaker king?

OK, just FWIW, I'm going to compromise. A single pole low pass on the woofer to roll off at 5000 Hz and and a 2nd order high pass at 4500 Hz on the tweeter. Still budget and should improve the sound.
 
Well lets see now. My original $15.00 budget speakers are now approaching the vicinity of $300.00.
Pair of 706G-1 woofers went for $27.01 on eBay a couple of hours ago, so, with shipping, more like $150 total for the butt-kick'n Presidians.

OK, just FWIW, I'm going to compromise. A single pole low pass on the woofer to roll off at 5000 Hz and and a 2nd order high pass at 4500 Hz on the tweeter. Still budget and should improve the sound.
What component values are you using, then?
 
Pair of 706G-1 woofers went for $27.01 on eBay a couple of hours ago, so, with shipping, more like $150 total for the butt-kick'n Presidians.

What component values are you using, then?

I was watching those 706G-1's, $27.01 plus 1 more bid plus $20.00 shipping and decided to pass. :scratch2:

I'm using the finished crossover from PE, cat.# 360-198. The only component I can read is the 3 uF metalized cap. They should be delivered tomorrow. Takes a lot of the guesswork out of it for me. The Presidians will be used in a smallish bedroom for nearfield listening.
 
Now I too am finished with these. I wired in the 2-way crossover from PE and while they won't kick the butt of the AR 4X's they sure kick the butt of the stock Prisidians. The values of the inductors are not printed on the crossover, the capacitor is a 3.0 uF metalized. See my previous post for the crossover effects. The highs and mids are much more pronounced and cleaner so no more under water sound. Sill bass shy though. For $9.90 per crossover to bring the total cost to $34.80 plus shipping from PE I have THE new budget king speakers (or close to it).
 
Even within vintage I wouldn't spend anything less than 200 for something I would consider as budget. I've gotten Energy 2.1 2 ways, PSB floorstanders,
B&W DM17's, B&W V201's for 200 or less ...
 
$9.90 PE 5 kHz Crossovers

Now I too am finished with these. I wired in the 2-way crossover from PE and while they won't kick the butt of the AR 4X's they sure kick the butt of the stock Prisidians. The values of the inductors are not printed on the crossover, the capacitor is a 3.0 uF metalized. See my previous post for the crossover effects. The highs and mids are much more pronounced and cleaner so no more under water sound. Sill bass shy though. For $9.90 per crossover to bring the total cost to $34.80 plus shipping from PE I have THE new budget king speakers (or close to it).
LF inductors 0.275 mH, 0.288 mH
HF inductors 0.405 mH, 0.400 mH

See the first pair of curves below. As concluded earlier, you MUST shut that woofer down above 3.5 kHz and attenuate the HF for it to work worth a whit. Compare to merely using the HF capacitor alone here:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=76643&d=1201581990

The crossover is marginally better (-1 dB) than just using the cap alone; HF from the woofer still dominates the overall response. Attenuating the tweeter will help a bit more, but the fundamental "problem" remains.

Second pair of images show two different Tang Band tweeters, one being presently on sale for $12 per Ray, above. The curves also highlight the difference between the stock woofer and a JBL. Both are running closed-box on the 2-pole crossover I developed earlier in this thread.... :yes:
 

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Hey Zilch, today I ordered those Tang Band tweeters from PE to try in the Presidians.:D
Got a little lucky at Foxwoods Casino and had $24.00 I didn't know what to do with....:thmbsp:
The cost of those little buggers keeps going up. Not budget anymore, but much better. Who knows, next I may be looking for a pair of JBL 708 G-1.
 
The cost of those little buggers keeps going up. Not budget anymore, but much better. Who knows, next I may be looking for a pair of JBL 708 G-1.
You've been bit by the DIY bug, Archie!

708s would be too big, but they'll work in AR4xs nicely. It'd be 706G-1 for Presidian.

I think 506Gs would work nicely too, may be easier to find, and will allow the stock grilles to fit. They were used in the cool little 4206 monitors:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Studio Monitor Series/4206.pdf

That's what I was going to use first, but found I didn't have any. In any case, if you get 706s, I'll tweak the crossover for better response, since I do have those.... :yes:
 
Brought my second pair back...

If anyone wants them, they're at the Rat Shack in Wake Forest, NC. Have your local Rat Shack contact them and arrange for free shipping to your local store....

And if anyone wonders, I got a set of Japanese 7W's from Homer today while dropping off the CW II's, so I don't need them taking up space in my garage....:thmbsp:
 
Zilch, did you enlarge the tweeter cut out to accommodate the Tang Band or fill around it with rope caulk?
 

I know this is the kind late...

bought 'em a while ago hated them, tried throwing a goldwood in, instead of that woofer but just decided to toss the project.

For about ten minutes I was think of exchanging both drivers for these

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-852
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-408

:D
 
Zilch, did you enlarge the tweeter cut out to accommodate the Tang Band or fill around it with rope caulk?
Enlarged it with a sanding bit in the cordless drill.

Not sure what those are called, about 1.5" long, 3/4" diameter, a cylinder of thick sandpaper, coarse grit. Done in just a couple of minutes because there's not a lot of substance to the baffle material, whatever it is.

Spec sheet tells the mounting hole diameter. The little shoulder there should fit in the hole, the flange flush.

A major advantage of the Tang Band is that you can then move the crossover frequency down where it needs to be without fear of overdriving it. As a soft dome, it also sounds hugely better.... :thmbsp:
 
Enlarged it with a sanding bit in the cordless drill.

Not sure what those are called, about 1.5" long, 3/4" diameter, a cylinder of thick sandpaper, coarse grit. Done in just a couple of minutes because there's not a lot of substance to the baffle material, whatever it is.

Spec sheet tells the mounting hole diameter. The little shoulder there should fit in the hole, the flange flush.

A major advantage of the Tang Band is that you can then move the crossover frequency down where it needs to be without fear of overdriving it. As a soft dome, it also sounds hugely better.... :thmbsp:

Thanks. I figured it needed to be flush mounted because of the tuned backside. I have those sanding cylinders in my rotary tool kit. also have a couple of rotary rasps around someplace.
The low pass filter I have in there rolls off at 5000 Hz. So maybe I'll bring it down more??
 
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