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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

This is what surprised me the most. It was superior in room-filling to both the cone/dome speakers and conventional horns that I've had, of which there as been a wide variety here.

Yeah, me too, and I also have experience with quite a few different type of horns as well. This inexpensive wg blew me away. While I am not going away from the old horn stuff just yet, I know I'll be listening to the EWG for a while.
 
Say hello to my little friends

Still waiting for the Ikea legs, and I need to attach and finish the grills.

The woofers are from the Duffinator, and I used the recommended LE14 crossover. I have them set up in my 2 channel rig now, but I think they are destined for duty in the HT room.

Yes... they do sound good.
 

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Still waiting for the Ikea legs, and I need to attach and finish the grills.

The woofers are from the Duffinator, and I used the recommended LE14 crossover. I have them set up in my 2 channel rig now, but I think they are destined for duty in the HT room.

Yes... they do sound good.

Congratulations, they are beautiful!
With great E"Wave imaging, and proper toe in, no center ch. will be needed.
:)
 
Still waiting for the Ikea legs, and I need to attach and finish the grills.

The woofers are from the Duffinator, and I used the recommended LE14 crossover. I have them set up in my 2 channel rig now, but I think they are destined for duty in the HT room.

Yes... they do sound good.
Wow those look great and you work fast! What cabinets are they? You should have mentioned you were looking for Ikea legs, I have a set of those as well. I also like your SX-1250.

Can you define "sound good". Zilch usually expects a bit more of a description than that. :D
 
Wow those look great and you work fast! What cabinets are they? You should have mentioned you were looking for Ikea legs, I have a set of those as well. I also like your SX-1250.

Can you define "sound good". Zilch usually expects a bit more of a description than that. :D

I've moved them into the other room, to see how they sound with different music, TV, etc. So far I'd say these are excellent imagers and smooth. First song I played (which I usually test most of my speakers with) was "Your Latest Trick" from Dire Straits Private Investigations. When the sax started up I knew the Econowaves were going to be good speaks.

The low end is less than what I was expecting. I tried to tune down to 30, not sure how well I did yet. Bass sounds good on drums, tight, but the low low end is not there without giving it a boost with the EQ. The high end is good, not as airy as what I have been listening to lately, which are some Infinity's with Emit tweeters. Ears need to adjust....

The cabinets are Bozak 302 Urbans. I have the matching audio cabinet I also picked up which I hope to use as a turntable stand if I can fix one of the doors which split at the hinge. And I wish that was a 1250 :) it's a 1050 next best thing.
 
Bass should be huge in those cabs.

What is the internal volume again?

And your duct diameter and length?

Did you add bracing inside the cabs?

Check your woofer polarity. Both woofers move the same direction when you connect a 1.5V battery to your input terminals?

If so, confirm your amp connections by disconnecting there and doing the same.... :yes:
 
:lmao: I think the Z-man is saying that with those bins, you ought not to be saying "The low end is less than what I was expecting." :lmao:
 
Bass should be huge in those cabs.

What is the internal volume again?

And your duct diameter and length?

Did you add bracing inside the cabs?

Check your woofer polarity. Both woofers move the same direction when you connect a 1.5V battery to your input terminals?

If so, confirm your amp connections by disconnecting there and doing the same.... :yes:

Internal volume ~4.7 cubic ft. Ducts are 2 inch diameter by 2.5 inch length. I have a brace across the back panel to stiffen it up, and considered adding a front to back brace. I chose not to for now, the cabs seem pretty solid as is.

As for polarity, all seems OK. Positive +1.5 volts at input terminals moves both woofers forward. I tried to make sure the polarity was good when I put these together because of the LE14 +/- mislabeling.

Don't get me wrong... these guys have bass, but I think need could use a couple dB extra added at the low end to match some of my other speaks. I don't have a way to measure thse directly, but I do have some Wharfedales spec'ed -6db @28 Hz that seem to push the low end better.
 
Internal volume ~4.7 cubic ft. Ducts are 2 inch diameter by 2.5 inch length.
My Barzilay cabinets are virtually identical in volume and similar in shape.
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We used two 3" diameter ports that are 5 1/2" long. We shortened the length by a half inch or so to bring them up to 30 Hz because they were tuned too low.
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Duffinator,
If you're not using your LE14H-3s any more, I'll take them off your hands....
:D
Ha! I was reading through my old thread earlier and say your post about buying my A's. I had them posted here on AK but forgot about you expressing interest in them. You'll be first in line for my H-3's but don't hold your breath on that happening anytime soon. :D
 
Internal volume ~4.7 cubic ft. Ducts are 2 inch diameter by 2.5 inch length. I have a brace across the back panel to stiffen it up, and considered adding a front to back brace. I chose not to for now, the cabs seem pretty solid as is.
BB6P says you're tuned to ~27 Hz, which I have found to be too low. Shorten your ducts to 1.145" for 32 Hz, 1.631" for 30 Hz.

In all of the 2" cases, however, your vent velocities are quite high at volume, and they'll "chuff." As Duff suggests, move up to 3" diameter, 4.361" for 32 Hz, or 5.453" for 30 Hz, it says, which drop the vent velocities to less than half those with 2" ducts.

We tuned Duff's system using actual completed box tuning measurements at ZilchLab, and from these numbers, it seems we got it right. I've provided instructions for doing that in another thread here:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144047

Consider side-to-side and top-to-bottom bracing. I'll put together a little demo here using Simpson Strong-Tie framing anchors. :yes:

Edit: Another option: add two more 2" ducts; all of them 4.219" long for 32 Hz (Black,) 5.19" for 30 Hz (Red). That'll give you some tuning options using ZilchPlugz™. If you tune to 32 Hz and plug one port, it drops to ~28 Hz, so you can compare the performance of both tunings.... :thmbsp:

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Armor all? Rubber or foam?

About the bass - I've gone through four bass XO scenarios:

1. Wide open. Too much interference in the mids, but good bass
2. Stock EWXO. Subdued bass, listener fatigue.
3. Optimized for 123A-1, bass is back but "congested", lacks snap, fatigue continues.
4. 1st order @ 2000. Jury is still out. More "effortless" than 2 or 3, better integration than 1.

I should have measurements....but this is the House of Blatant Subjectivity for the time being.

The fun continues...

very interesting. thanks for the info clmrt.
 
Search this thread:
"Piano"

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It'll fit the PE rectangular one, too.... :thmbsp:

Zilch,

Double check me on this (pdf of rectangular cabinet attached).

I don't think the rectangular cabinet will work because there is a brace in it at 140 mm (5.5") from the front plane of the cabinet.

Just measured the JBL waveguide with Selenium D220TI driver installed. It is 6.5" deep, so would need 7" depth in the cabinet to be safe. If I'm reading the drawing correctly, the rectangular cabinet only has 5.5" available depth.

Guess a person could remove the center of the cross brace, but that defeats the purpose of it being there in the first place.

Regards, BmWr75

EDIT: just checked the drawing for the curved back cabinet. It has the same internal cross brace at the same 140 mm depth. Did you remove it in to fit the waveguide/driver in the picture above?
 
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I believe he did, as it's not needed when just using it to house the waveguide.

If you were using the cab to actually build a speaker you'd want the brace but
for just using it to house a tweeter there is no need for it. :)
 
EDIT: just checked the drawing for the curved back cabinet. It has the same internal cross brace at the same 140 mm depth. Did you remove it in to fit the waveguide/driver in the picture above?
You've got to add on the thickness of the baffle to that depth. Even so, I had to sand ~1/32" off the center of the brace. If I recessed the waveguide flush with the baffle face, which I plan to do, it'd be more, but the brace would remain largely intact.

PE calls the brace "optional," even for speaker building, suggesting that it may be cut or removed without consequence, but for that use, I work to retain it in place, for example, snaking the duct around and through it in Indignia. As Kegger suggests, it's entirely superfluous when the cabs are used simply to house a waveguide and compression driver.... :yes:
 
A great speaker is now awesome.

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A little joke, Zilch. Sorry buddy, I could not help myself. <grin>

Snade
 
That could look pretty snazzy there Snade for top enclosures!

Got a few options where to put the waveguide in them as well,
side where your at, on the bottom maybe, grills to cover xover.

Many different ways you could do it there...:thmbsp:
 
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