• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Boxplot How To Guide

Paul C

Super Member
Boxplot How To Guide

You may download Boxplot here:

http://www.pispeakers.com/BoxPlot_Install.exe

(This download is courtesy of www.pispeakers.com who make some really hip speakers, both built and kits.)

To begin a project:

Open Boxplot, wait for the "gripe box" and then maximize the generic plot in the Boxplot window.

Immediately Save As, and name your project. Since I get most of my woofers from Parts Express, I usually save as using the Parts Express number as the file name. Or I may use Delta12, Gamma15, etc.

attachment.php


Next, enter woofer parameters. Click the red/yellow woofer button in the toolbar. This opens the Speaker Parameters dialog box.

attachment.php


I like to give more info in the Speaker Model box, the Mfg and model. "Eminence Delta 15"

Simply fill in the blanks. Do not fill in Qts. When you fill in Qms and Qes it will calculate Qts.

Occasionally you will have T/S parameters given in metric. Check in the Units section Metric.

NOTE that Xmax, in metric, is CENTIMETERS, not MM's as is usually given. So, move your decimal accordingly. 4.3 mm's is entered as .43 cm. THIS IS IMPORTANT for proper graphing of the power limits.

Also, if Vas is given in liters, check Metric. You can always check English afterwards, and those Metric parameters will be converted to English.

Box Parameters

Access Box Parameters by clicking the black/white speaker box button just to the right of the red/yellow speaker parameters button.

attachment.php


First, in Box Type chose Closed or Vented.

Select the number of drivers in Speaker Config.. Normally it should be 1, but you may configure for 2 or more woofers.

EQ Type. This is usually set to None, but you may use a 1st or 2nd order high pass (subsonic) filter. If you don't know what this is, set None.

Now, back to the Box Type section. If you have chosen Vented, press the Align button. This will provide the flattest, optimum port tuning and box size. And very likely, it may be unacceptable.

Notice down on the bottom right of the main window, you will have Fs=xxx and Vb=xxx. This is the port tuning frequency and the box volume as determined by the Alpha and H figures.

LEAVE Q1 as 7, as this is a typical box Q for ported speakers.

Adjust Alpha in Box Parameters to vary Vb as seen on the bottom edge of the Boxplot window.

THEN adjust H to try to flatten the response curve as best as you can.

Whereas the Align button, like the standard T/S alignments, gives only one optimum, in the real world some ripple is acceptable. In fact, accepting a ripple of even +/- 1 db will give you a wide range of box volumes to choose from. Accepting a very practical +/- 2 db will give an even wider range of box sizes.

Manipulate Alpha and H to arrive at an acceptable box volume and port tuning. Or switch to Sealed and see if that is better.

The box size, Vb, can be chosen because of a limited amount of floor or shelf area to use, or the desire to use a preexisting cabinet. The speaker builder can see how a particular woofer will perform in a particular cabinet.

It is relatively easy to change a port for most designs if a tube is used. If a slotted port, then it may take more work to change the port. Don't let the port stop you. You can change it, or even plug it up entirely.

Now, reading the graph. Notice that the vertical lines, frequency, are not evenly spaced. Well, they are, but by OCTAVE. A doubling of frequency is an increase of one octave.

attachment.php


The black line is the frequency response with one watt of input. It is read and compared to the black db figures on the left side of the graph.

The -3 db dashed line is the "f3", or -3db rolloff. This is considered to be the lowest practical range for the the chosen woofer and box design.

The green line, read with the green numbers on the far right, is the maximum power input vs frequency. The green line will max out at the power rating you entered in the Speaker Parameter dialog box, and is the thermal limit given by the manufacture as the watt rating. But on the low end, the power limit is also affected by the amount of cone excursion (Xmax) vs power vs frequency. Xmax is the limiting factor at low frequencies.

The red line is the maximum SPL that may be produced at various frequencies. It takes into account the power that may be applied without damaging the woofer by burning it up or exceeding Xmax.

The red and green lines may be taken off the graph by clicking (at the top) Edit > Preferences and unchecking Plot Displacement Limit, Plot Power Limit. Then close that dialog box, and click View > Re-plot graph.

Now you may plan your box dimensions by opening the dialog box:

attachment.php


Finally, in the Vent Design dialog box port dimensions will be seen. You can adjust for round or rectangular port, port size, single or multiple ports, etc.

attachment.php


You can make a printed report, with graph, all the box size, port size, etc, but usually the numbers are squished together, the plot not well done. I usually skip printing. If you do print, you may want to experiment with printing as Landscape, rather than Portrait, for a better presentation.

Macaltec, this is for you, guy! :thmbsp:
 

Attachments

  • Boxplot Box Dimensions.JPG
    Boxplot Box Dimensions.JPG
    70.4 KB · Views: 293
  • Boxplot Box Para.JPG
    Boxplot Box Para.JPG
    74.5 KB · Views: 284
  • Boxplot Graph.JPG
    Boxplot Graph.JPG
    65.2 KB · Views: 282
  • Boxplot Port.JPG
    Boxplot Port.JPG
    63.9 KB · Views: 277
  • Boxplot Save As.JPG
    Boxplot Save As.JPG
    60.1 KB · Views: 280
  • Boxplot Spkr Para.JPG
    Boxplot Spkr Para.JPG
    67.7 KB · Views: 283
Register to hide this ad
I take it that the green line is the max power you can feed the speaker without damage at various frequencies? If so it suddenly becomes obvious why subwoofers are rated at thousands of watts... So you can safely feed them a couple of hundred watts at their typical opperating frequencis.
 
The thousands of watts for subs, for the most part, is BS. They can't do it. I don't know how they can get away with the claims.

Do note that the rolloff of the green line is due to cone excursion and Xmax figures rather than thermal limits as you see higher up. If you have entered that a woofer is rated at 300 watts, the green line will run up to 300 w at the top of the graph and go hornizontal across the top to the right. If you change that wattage in the Speaker Parameters box, it will change the top of the graph.

But the lower freq, toward the left side, is controlled by Xmax. Go into the Speaker Parametes dialog box and increase and decrease Xmax and look at the results.
 
OK this is actually pretty easy. Paul I gots a question tho. Can box plot account for series/parallel wiring? This plot is for four 92dB woofs, and I think the black line on the graph is off by about 12 dB.
 

Attachments

  • graph.jpg
    graph.jpg
    56.6 KB · Views: 14
Filmboydoug said:
OK this is actually pretty easy. Paul I gots a question tho. Can box plot account for series/parallel wiring? This plot is for four 92dB woofs, and I think the black line on the graph is off by about 12 dB.

I don't believe the black line has anything to do with the speakers SPL. It only represents the frequency response @ 1 watt. I could be wrong though.
 
macaltec said:
I don't believe the black line has anything to do with the speakers SPL. It only represents the frequency response @ 1 watt. I could be wrong though.

Got it, thanks. Next time I'll pay attention to what I just read.
 
You're quite welcome. I'm just starting to grasp all of this myself. If a person likes speakers, like so many of us here do, this is must have piece of software. I wonder if it can be worn out from too much use :scratch2: .
 
That's correct. The red numbers on the right are only for the red line.

When you do select more than 1 woofer, it gives a choice of series or parallel. But remember, whether you wire your woofers in series or parallel, they will still take a certain number of total watts to reach a certain SPL no matter what.

If you use two woofers, and they are rated 100 watts each, the maximum input is still 200 watts for two woofers. But the voltage/amperage to reach 100 watts will be different depending on how the speakrs are wired.

If two 8 ohm woofers are in parallel, together they are 4 ohms. If 20 v RMS is applied then, 20 v / 4 ohms = 5 amps TOTAL (and 2.5 amps will flow through each woofer). That is 20 v x 5 amps = 100 w total. Each woofer is receiving 20 v x 2.5 amps = 50 w.

If the two 8 ohm woofers are in series, together they are 16 ohms. If 40 v RMS is applied across the two woofers, 40 v / 16 ohms = 2.5 amps. That is 40 v x 2.5 amps = 100 w total, just as before. But each woofer is only receiving 20 v x 2.5 amps, = 50 w, the same as before.

In the first case, the amp is producing less voltage and more amperage. In the second case, the amp is producing more voltage and less amperage. But the total wattage is the same, and the wattage delivered to each woofer is the same.

So how your woofers are wired will make no difference to the power plot in Boxplot.
 
Do you know if the paid for version of Box Plot has all the features active? Is it worth the $25, or is the that address even valid any more? I mean if the author was actively maintaining the software, wouldn't he have at least an email address there if not a website?

I am playing with several of the freeware speaker design programs, but most of them seem to be limited in some way or another.
 
Back
Top Bottom