Modern speaker cable / old-style barrier strip

nsgarch · Feb 28, 2007

Modern speaker cable / old-style Mac barrier strip

Here's my solution to the problem of adapting big fat speaker cables with big fat spades to Mac amps with teeny weeny barrier strip speaker terminals. There are two different parts involved. You'll need:

(4) brass adapter forks usually available on Ebay. Go to 'vintage electronics' and type in 'forks'. Or on Audiogon under McIntosh.
(4) spade-to-banana adapters available from PS Audio.

In the attached pics of my system, I'm using the 4ohm tap, so I've oriented the adjoining forks one up and one down to allow clearance between the spade adapters. If you're using 8 or 16 ohm taps, you don't need to do this.

I think it's an elegant and solid solution. Hope it helps anyone who's been pondering this problem :yes: :thmbsp:

Face · Dec 11, 2007

I wish I would have seen this months ago, thanks.

drknstrmyknight · Feb 24, 2008

Those look really easy to short againt one another, I think I'd be looking for some insulation.

nsgarch · Feb 24, 2008

drknstrmyknight said:
Those look really easy to short againt one another, I think I'd be looking for some insulation.

Actually it's quite a safe arrangement, for sure in the 8 or 16 ohm configuration. With the 4 ohm setup like mine, you just have to stagger the orientation of the adaptors and you're OK :yes:

beemer · Feb 24, 2008

When I had my MC275 IV, I used a pair of these:

Prelude Audio makes these, and other designs using high-quality components.

Their website:

http://www.preludeaudio.com/index.htm

No affiliation other than a well-pleased customer. nsgarch's idea certainly has merit, however also could lend itself to an accident that need not happen, ie....grounding.

Best,

Paul :thmbsp:

Hepcat · Feb 24, 2008

If it was me I'd use door bell wire.

Gregory · Feb 24, 2008

Nice.. but what about bare spade lugs for 10 gauge cable?

What are the barrier strips? #6 machine screws?

On the other end are insulated spades for LARGER barrier strips with #8 screws.

And the price can't be beat....

All of these are crimps with no solder. You can rough them up with scotch-bright if necessary, but notice how the screws dig into and scrape the surface.

-Gregory

rcarlton · Feb 24, 2008

Gregory,
That's my solution. Works well, simple, elegant and functional.

nsgarch · Feb 25, 2008

Gregory said:
Nice.. but what about bare spade lugs for 10 gauge cable?

Gregory, that's a good way to do it if you're "rolling your own" cables, and the little machined billet spades from Cardas (like the ones on the device Beemer posted) are really beautiful and easy to work with.

But I'm sure you realize that many people (for various reasons) want/need to utilize cables with modern terminations, and so my suggestion (and Paul's) are for them.

wolfcub · Feb 25, 2008

Prelude Audio also do custom loudspeaker cables that you can specify terminated with the narrow cardas spades which fit the McIntosh barrier strips (the same as in the photograph).

I imported some from the US to use with my MC275 mk IV's and very nice they look too.

ron-c · Feb 25, 2008

Note, the MC275 is 75 watts per channel not 750.....Bwaaaaaa.

Thanks,
Ron-C

Gregory · Feb 25, 2008

rcarlton said:
Gregory,
That's my solution. Works well, simple, elegant and functional.

Yeah.. well the repaired cabinet was setup over the weekend and I took some pics of the cables and terminations. Have a look. Making your own cables is FUN!!

Photo-1: four #10 copper cords bring the 4-ohm and 8-ohm transformer taps outside the cabinet and almost to the floor.

Photo-2: another 8 position HEAVY barrier strip on the floor between the speakers. Brown wires are from C33 monitor amp output.

Photo-3: for tests purposes I ran additional cable and brought the speakers out into the room and turned them around 180°.. the Black and Red lines are make with Sharpie pens.

Photo-4: these are Mitchell connectors under the Thiels. The tighter you turn them the tighter the copper gets clamped, and the tighter the banana post gets in the jack.

-Gregory

Doug Olitsky · Feb 25, 2008

cardas and audioquest makespades that will fit

Here is my free fix w/found material...

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=483541#post483541

Gregory · Feb 25, 2008

nsgarch said:
Gregory, that's a good way to do it if you're "rolling your own" cables, and the little machined billet spades from Cardas are really beautiful and easy to work with. I'm sure you realize that many people want/need to utilize cables with modern terminations, and so my suggestion are for them.

Yes.. that is understood.

-Gregory

wolfcub · Feb 26, 2008

ron-c said:
Note, the MC275 is 75 watts per channel not 750.....Bwaaaaaa.

Thanks,
Ron-C

Ron, what's wrong with the cardas connectors ? They do the job ok and aren't very expensive.

It is virtually impossible to find anything else that will fit apart from Lucar type tinned crimp car lugs....or bare wires....

Gregory · Feb 26, 2008

wolfcub said:
Ron, what's wrong with the cardas connectors ? They do the job ok and aren't very expensive. It is virtually impossible to find anything else that will fit apart from Lucar type tinned crimp car lugs....or bare wires....

Crimped car lugs!! LOL

I wouldn't let my dawg listen to those cables!!
{ not to mention getting them broken in }

-Gregory

wolfcub · Feb 26, 2008

The Cardas connectors aren't crimped - looks like the wires are getting crossed

Modern speaker cable / old-style barrier strip

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