Re-Capping Speakers: is there a simpler how-to?

I have several speakers that I would love to improve the already good sound of:
JBL 4311's
Acoustic Research AR-4x's
Utah Audio HS3-5a's (not good sound, looking for a fix)

I was wondering if there is anyone willing to help me with a simpler and dumbed down how-to of recapping speakers, as I cannot understand a word of the other articles, relating to the AR-4x's, especially. The HF control is really scratchy on one and works only at a very low level on the other. I am using and EQ to boost the speakers to normal sound, and is doesn't sound very good, to my ears. I have heard the mostly working one alone with the HF control up where I wanted it and it sounded fantastic. Can someone help me?

VD:

I've recapped a number of speakers and consider myself not terribly skillful, so maybe my comments can help. I have recapped AR-4x's, 2ax's, KLH 6, EPI 100, EPI 201, Jensen 4's, and others.

The first time I tried recapping (a pair of Scott S-10's woth a very complicated crossover) I tried doing it the "right" way, de-soldering the old caps and re-soldering new ones in. Discovered how easy it is to create short circuits if the new caps aren't connected in just the right spot.

What I do now is, remove the old caps by simply clippng the old cap wires as close to the capacitor as possible, leaving the original cap leads still soldered into place. I then attach the leads of the new caps to the old cap leads, twisting them around a couple of times, then soldering them together at the place where they join. I'll then clip away any excess lead wires on the new caps, assuming there is any excess.

Don't worry about the orientation of the caps, they are non-directional. I've had good results with Dayton caps from Parts Express, just get the same "uf" values as the originals.

So far, this has worked just fine and dandy, and is much easier to me when working in tight spaces.

As far as the level control pots, that's a trickier proposition. I'm about to try a simple bypass on the AR-4x pots, with the help of several good AK'ers I think I may understand what I'm going to do (see the thread below)

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=121179&page=4&highlight=AR-4x

Hope this is helpful!

Roy

Lots of good threads on the subject here, this one comes to mind.

OK. Thanks.
How do I open the Acoustic suspension cabinets of the AR-4x's to get to the crossover and then seal them back up right again?

Should I send some contact cleaner into the HF controls to see if that will help?

vinyldavid said:

OK. Thanks.
How do I open the Acoustic suspension cabinets of the AR-4x's to get to the crossover and then seal them back up right again?

Should I send some contact cleaner into the HF controls to see if that will help?

Click to expand...

The only way is to remove the screws holding the woofer in, and then carefully pry up the woofers, pulling the old putty loose that holds them in. When you're finally finished inside, you'll need to remove all the old putty and reseal the woofers with putty or latex caulk when you close them up again.

I got mine at least playable by dousing the HF controls with contact cleaner and rotating them a lot. I have only one real "sweet spot" where the tweeters open up, but at least it's something. This is what motivated me to finally try a bypass. Some folks take the HF control pots apart and clean them with a dremel tool, but I'm either too lazy or scared of screwing up to do that.

Do I have to open up the speakers to douse the HF controls with contact cleaner? I am in dire and I mean DIRE financial straits right now (I am a soph in high school) and cannot get any $ for anything. contact cleaner I can borrow from a friend.

vinyldavid said:

Do I have to open up the speakers to douse the HF controls with contact cleaner? I am in dire and I mean DIRE financial straits right now (I am a soph in high school) and cannot get any $ for anything. contact cleaner I can borrow from a friend.

Click to expand...

No, you don't have to open the speakers to spray some contact cleaner into the controls. I've had some success with placing the speakers on the floor, face down, with the drivers facing down and the level controls facing up. I then carefully spray some contact cleaner into the space where the shaft enters the pot and let gravity take it into the pot. Work the control repeatedly, let it dry for an hour or so, and then hook it up. This method has worked for me on a number of AR speakers. Unfortunately, on some speakers, the pots were so corroded that the contact cleaner did nothing. While it's not as good as cleaning the pot, or bypassing the pot altogether, this method has often allowed me to use the speaker immediately.
Hope this helps, and good luck.

I always vote for cleaning the pot. You don't even need a dremel tool if you don't have one. Just a little steel wool should do it.

I realize that AR4x thread is really complex, but if there's one thing to get from it, it's that bypassing the pot will change the original sound, and there is some compelling evidence that it may not be the best thing. Some have done it and prefer the new sound, however.

I recommend cleaning since it is free, doesn't alter the original sound, and preserves the value if you ever want to sell them to upgrade. It may be the last thing on your mind right now, but what if you see a pair of AR-5's or AR-3a's that you just need a couple more bucks to afford. . . .

heh heh heh...
Those AR-4x's were $15 at goodwill.
Thanks for alll your help. I will get some contact cleaner and test it out asap.

if you can re-use the woofer calk, do it !, if not, go buy some "3M Strip-Calk" Prt # 08578 @ auto store.