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Best polish for silver pioneer?

H2s04

H2s04

auralmicitisis
Hello all,

I have a Pioneer SA-7800 (my main amplifier), and I would like to know what the best products (hopefully not too strong) are for cleaning silver pioneer facias, for now, and future reference.

Thanks :)
 
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As a metal finisher, I would lean toward the soap and water for cleaning. Mild dish soap is pretty safe. As for bringing up the lustre a high quality wax for modern paint finishes works well.Test a small area for possible silkscreen damage.
 
I use toothpaste. :yes: No kidding.....A soft toothbrush with a non abrasive toothpaste like closeup works wonders.

I just read this thread over again, polish....well.....I guess what they all say, I never use polish.
 
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I don't know about toothpaste, which is abrasive, being used on faceplates that are PRINTED, faceplates that are engraved should not be a problem. My cat has a rather rough tongue, and has done a marvelous job on my silver faceplates. A little tuna on the receiver, and voila!
 
I've been using a product called "Blue Magic" for cleaning faceplates. It's totally non-abrasive and really cuts through oxidation and that sort of thing with ease. It really brings out a great shine too. I believe it's in the 3 or 4 dollar range. I've only been able to find it at Wal-Mart in the auto department. It also works great on chrome and aluminum car wheels which is probably why it's sold in the auto department. On the other hand, as EW said, soap and water and a good car wax is probably all you need.
 
Unican_Eric is absolutely right.

NOTHING like plain old toothpaste!!!

You're da man!!! :thmbsp:
 
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VintageNut said:
I don't know about toothpaste, which is abrasive, being used on faceplates that are PRINTED, faceplates that are engraved should not be a problem. My cat has a rather rough tongue, and has done a marvelous job on my silver faceplates. A little tuna on the receiver, and voila!
Click to expand...

If toothpaste is abrasive, I don't want to think about my own teeth :D

Seriously, I have used it and it's safe for the lettering. It cleans up cigarrette stains from old neglected units like no other!
 
I tell ya, people think i'm nuts when I say that but it works like magic. Yes you have to watch for the silkscreen but in all the receivers that I have done I only lost a few letters, and that was on my Akai AA-1200 but there was a few off before I started so it was comming off anyway. Like I said, soft brush, non abrasive toothpaste.
Thanks for the plug crooner. :thmbsp:

Oh yeah, use at your own risk and if you loose some silkscreen.....Please dont yell at me....
 
Unican_Eric:

Man I gotta tell ya!

One of my, now departed, SX-1080s when I first got her looked like hell. Tobacco stains everywhere, some really stubborn stains. I tried the toothpaste and no kidding fellas, she looked mint!

This is the unit Legalfly paid top dollar on ePay!!!
 
I'm glad a fellow Aker is getting the money that dude is throwing around....did you use smoker's toothpaste? :lmao:
 
VintageNut said:
Here's a smokey one that could use some of your special cleaning, Crooner
What did you clean the wood with on your SX-1080 you sold?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=39789&item=5762568449&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Click to expand...

That's a real nasty one :D It will require smoker's toothpaste!

I used regular "whitening" pepsodent (or was it Colgate?) :scratch2: on mine.

The wood was treated with lemon oil and the minor blemishes with a walnut touch up pen from Walmart :thmbsp:

I was lucky to put these units on the marketplace at the right time. Sadly, in order to afford a new toy I have to give up another(s). :cry:
 
The problem with toothpaste (besides being hella messy and rather expensive to do...remember, I do 20 amps a month) is that the front plate of your amp/receiver isn't tooth enamel...it's anodized aluminum. I don't know what effect the flouride in the toothpaste might have on the thin anodized layer of the aluminum (maybe none), but fluoride was meant to penetrate one of the hardest substances in nature...your teeth. I'd think the anodization on the faceplate runs a distant second to tooth enamel.

Besides the mess, once it washes off, there is no protection for the nice clean amp. A wax will protect the surface.

On some really nasty gear, I've used light-duty rubbing compound (the white stuff) to get the crud off after the soap and water, then follow up with a regular wax.

Just suggestions. My own methods were developed by trial 'n' error after doing a buttload of amps/recievers...
 
Unlike an Echo coming back from a canyon, that isn't quite as clear, EchoWars idea is clear. Eagle-1 NanoWax is nice, as it DOESN'T leave a white residue. It's nice on the dial glass, after cleaning it, to prevent dust from being sucked to it. It works for me.
 
I've been cleaning these things for a long time now and I've just found some stuff that works better than anything else I've ever used. Oxi-Clean. Just put a thin film on the face plate and let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off. It takes care of EVERYTHING, especially the yellowing from ciggarette smoking. Give it a try and let me know what you think.
Oh, and then give it the wax job like EW says....

Retro
 
I understand WD40 is sometimes used for cleaning front plates of receivers amnd amplifiers.

My SA508 was quite slick with the stuff when I got it.
 
3m

We used this on our boat's rigging :yes:
It works great :thmbsp: Harmless to the lettering and i have never had to apply twice!

Just my .02
BIGNFAT
 
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