sanyofreak
Active Member
Time to actually contribute something worthwhile. A few had posted they were having trouble with this switch in their JCX series receivers - was news to me. Plus series I've had to fix (didnt use this method), but thought that the older JCX were immune to this, but I guess not. Originally I thought this was hopeless, but alas the correct searching and hunches led me to a nice fix here.
The power switch on these Sanyo's is a compound pushon-pushoff with a control voltage rated DPDT in the front and mains DPST in the rear for the AC. Low and behold C&K does make one that is so close in function and form, it will work and not require a parts unit with a good switch as a donor. Dont attempt this if you have to ask if the receiver should be unplugged to do this project, instead take this info to your tech with a link to this thread.
The C&K part number for this switch is NE1839EE and it can be ordered from Mouser as P/N 611-NE1839EE for about twelve bucks in singles. Dont know how long they have made this switch or how long they will continue, but as of now they still do. And also not cheap, but worth it for an otherwise functioning unit. I am told that some NAD equipment and possibly others also use this type, which is originally an Alps TV-5 SDU3P. MCM used to carry OEM ones a few years back, but they were TV-3's, which I think means 3amp - wouldnt last too long in a JCX2900K if that is true. This new switch seems pretty high quality and has a 6A rating for the rear(AC) section. Its pretty well sealed and the contacts are silver alloy plated. It will work for all JCX series receivers with DC protection relays (2400,2600,2900K) and Plus Series receivers Plus55, Plus75, and Plus130. I'll bet the P55 mosfet amp also used this.
1. Cut nylon cable tie keeping mains wires along side frame next to transformer(s) and remove board assy from right side of receiver with two screws and "fanagle" it free. You may unwrap wires if you wish which will make it easier to work with, but you dont have to. If you do, use a digital camera to document where the wires connect.(see pic named "mountedassybefore" and "removedassy")
2. Remove board screws to free metal mounting bracket from board and then remove screws (2) from front of switch assy (machine type). Set aside bracket or let hang if you didnt unwrap chassis ground wire.
3. Unsolder switch from board using preferred desoldering method (I like wick, or "desoldering braid" for you old vets). Remove switch. Slide U-bracket from front shoulder of old switch. You will have to straighten the "tangs" around the top of the switch body to get it to slide down. (Needlenose pliers work)
4. Here's where it gets a little tricky, as the switch does not fit perfectly in two small ways - but no problem. First off, the slot for the U-bracket and the front shoulder of the new switch are a millimeter or so too long. To fix this, take a small square or flat needle file and shave off a hair of material from the front shoulder of the switch, left and right sides, so the bracket slides on without distorting its "U" shape. Go slow and keep checking as in any "trim to fit" work. A small vise is a big friend here also.
Secondly, the rear AC section PCB pins will not line up, but luckily, these switches also have top mounted solder lugs which is what must be used with jumper wires to connect back down to the PC board.
Trim the switches PCB leads off flush with the body of the switch. (remember, the PCB lead side, not the lugs!).
Now, attach (solder) four wire leads to the rear 4 lugs of the top rear (AC portion) of the switch. The leads only need to be about an inch long, and I used insulated 22AWG hookup wire. Keep the insulation, and strip a quarter to three-eighths inch off the ends that will go into the board holes. (See the picture named "switchdress1 and switchdress2".)
5. Slide the U-bracket under then onto the switch like the original and seat it all the way down, then bend the "tangs" back toward each other. Insert the four lead wires from the back of the switch, to 4 corresponding holes in the PCB that the old switch used. The wires should go down and back and not cross, to the holes that are closest to them when bent straight down. Some dressing and bending of the front two will go along way as the bottom body of the switch will rest on them - they must bend out the top of the board at a right angle so the switch body can sit on them (pull the bare part of the stripped wire through the solder side of pcb until insulation meets top of board.).
Insert the front portion of the switch leads into the board until the U-bracket is flush and sits on the board (just like the old one). Use the stops on all 6 front switch leads to seat and level the switch and then turn over and solder all leads, cut the AC jumper wires flush to the PCB if there is any excess sticking through solder side. (See the pic named "newswitchmounted")
6. Attach the PCB assy mounting bracket to the now captive switch U-bracket with the 2 machine screws, and then secure assy mounting bracket back to board using the shorter of the four sheet metal screws left. "Fanagle" the board back into its original position (you may have to pull out the silver switch plunger from the faceplate if you didnt remove the faceplate) line'er back up with holes on the receiver main side rail and screw in the attachment screws you removed in step 1.
7. Cinch a new nylon cable tie securing the AC lead wires along the inside of the side rail where they were, plug in unit and test. Viola!
Hope this helps those who are interested, and surely there is a larger base of equipment that uses this type of switch than what is covered here. If this was done in an old thread, sorry, here's a refreshser course!! Happy Sanyo-ing all.
The power switch on these Sanyo's is a compound pushon-pushoff with a control voltage rated DPDT in the front and mains DPST in the rear for the AC. Low and behold C&K does make one that is so close in function and form, it will work and not require a parts unit with a good switch as a donor. Dont attempt this if you have to ask if the receiver should be unplugged to do this project, instead take this info to your tech with a link to this thread.
The C&K part number for this switch is NE1839EE and it can be ordered from Mouser as P/N 611-NE1839EE for about twelve bucks in singles. Dont know how long they have made this switch or how long they will continue, but as of now they still do. And also not cheap, but worth it for an otherwise functioning unit. I am told that some NAD equipment and possibly others also use this type, which is originally an Alps TV-5 SDU3P. MCM used to carry OEM ones a few years back, but they were TV-3's, which I think means 3amp - wouldnt last too long in a JCX2900K if that is true. This new switch seems pretty high quality and has a 6A rating for the rear(AC) section. Its pretty well sealed and the contacts are silver alloy plated. It will work for all JCX series receivers with DC protection relays (2400,2600,2900K) and Plus Series receivers Plus55, Plus75, and Plus130. I'll bet the P55 mosfet amp also used this.
1. Cut nylon cable tie keeping mains wires along side frame next to transformer(s) and remove board assy from right side of receiver with two screws and "fanagle" it free. You may unwrap wires if you wish which will make it easier to work with, but you dont have to. If you do, use a digital camera to document where the wires connect.(see pic named "mountedassybefore" and "removedassy")
2. Remove board screws to free metal mounting bracket from board and then remove screws (2) from front of switch assy (machine type). Set aside bracket or let hang if you didnt unwrap chassis ground wire.
3. Unsolder switch from board using preferred desoldering method (I like wick, or "desoldering braid" for you old vets). Remove switch. Slide U-bracket from front shoulder of old switch. You will have to straighten the "tangs" around the top of the switch body to get it to slide down. (Needlenose pliers work)
4. Here's where it gets a little tricky, as the switch does not fit perfectly in two small ways - but no problem. First off, the slot for the U-bracket and the front shoulder of the new switch are a millimeter or so too long. To fix this, take a small square or flat needle file and shave off a hair of material from the front shoulder of the switch, left and right sides, so the bracket slides on without distorting its "U" shape. Go slow and keep checking as in any "trim to fit" work. A small vise is a big friend here also.
Secondly, the rear AC section PCB pins will not line up, but luckily, these switches also have top mounted solder lugs which is what must be used with jumper wires to connect back down to the PC board.
Trim the switches PCB leads off flush with the body of the switch. (remember, the PCB lead side, not the lugs!).
Now, attach (solder) four wire leads to the rear 4 lugs of the top rear (AC portion) of the switch. The leads only need to be about an inch long, and I used insulated 22AWG hookup wire. Keep the insulation, and strip a quarter to three-eighths inch off the ends that will go into the board holes. (See the picture named "switchdress1 and switchdress2".)
5. Slide the U-bracket under then onto the switch like the original and seat it all the way down, then bend the "tangs" back toward each other. Insert the four lead wires from the back of the switch, to 4 corresponding holes in the PCB that the old switch used. The wires should go down and back and not cross, to the holes that are closest to them when bent straight down. Some dressing and bending of the front two will go along way as the bottom body of the switch will rest on them - they must bend out the top of the board at a right angle so the switch body can sit on them (pull the bare part of the stripped wire through the solder side of pcb until insulation meets top of board.).
Insert the front portion of the switch leads into the board until the U-bracket is flush and sits on the board (just like the old one). Use the stops on all 6 front switch leads to seat and level the switch and then turn over and solder all leads, cut the AC jumper wires flush to the PCB if there is any excess sticking through solder side. (See the pic named "newswitchmounted")
6. Attach the PCB assy mounting bracket to the now captive switch U-bracket with the 2 machine screws, and then secure assy mounting bracket back to board using the shorter of the four sheet metal screws left. "Fanagle" the board back into its original position (you may have to pull out the silver switch plunger from the faceplate if you didnt remove the faceplate) line'er back up with holes on the receiver main side rail and screw in the attachment screws you removed in step 1.
7. Cinch a new nylon cable tie securing the AC lead wires along the inside of the side rail where they were, plug in unit and test. Viola!
Hope this helps those who are interested, and surely there is a larger base of equipment that uses this type of switch than what is covered here. If this was done in an old thread, sorry, here's a refreshser course!! Happy Sanyo-ing all.
