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Completing 1030 rebuild

Blue Shadow

Blue Shadow

Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
I have repaired a one channel 1030 thanks to some help from Brad and a recap. I want to finish this amp with one last order from Mouser.

Other than the 2SC458s that have to go, is there anything else that should be replaced to make this unit right, complete and reliable going forward?
 
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Ready to get the parts but one more question.

My unit has two 0.01µF 800VAC caps instead of the cap on the power switch, C008, 0.033µF 800VAC.

The schematic shows C008 as across the switch. My unit has the two caps going from the AC line in to the chassis, one on each leg.

Should these units be replaced? Should I replace with one X cap across the switch or a Y cap on the AC line or two caps to ground as the unit was built?

This is an early unit, using two caps for the power supply, a 3300 and an additional 1000 connected in parallel, etched faceplate and pre-power jacks so it is not exactly like the schematic.
 
The cap across the switch is a "spark-killer" and should be installed as it protects the switch. The caps on the AC line to the chassis (ground) are to reduce "line noise" and should be replaced with Y rated caps. Note that many AC caps available have dual X and Y ratings, e.g., X1/Y2. Here's a link to additional information: http://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html
 
Thanks, that beats reading the 40 page pdf from Kemet.

So replace the 0.01s with some X-Ys and install a cap across the input. I can handle that.
 
Well I have replaced the diodes in the PS and added an XY cap across the power switch.

I left the caps from each AC line to chassis and will evaluate that as I learn more.

Replaced the 4 big caps with 3 new caps. The output caps are just 2200µF units that fit the 30mm bracket. The other two big caps in my unit were a 3300 and 1000µF units in parallel. I replaced these two with a 6800µF 63V unit that fit the smaller 25mm bracket.

New caps, smaller...sometimes they don't look like a big upgrade but this one probably is.

My question is if the 200V 1A diodes in the PS were working fine, why is it recommended to replace these, particularly with 400V 1A units? I guess a newer part has better operating characteristics or some such thing and maybe the old units are 'wear' items.

I know, you guys need pictures. I'll see if I can post up the before and after of the large caps.
 
OK here are the before and after large cap replacement pics.

As stated the pair are the same capacitance, 2200 but the voltage is up to get the size that fits the bracket. The single cap, replacing the two in the original is a 6800µF/63V vs. the 3300/55 + 1000/55 that were in there. Big difference in size.
 

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The rectifier diodes have had a hard life, many cycles of high surge current when flipping on the power switch all those years. Trust bk's recommendation, he knows his Marantz stuff!
 
Oh I trust him. I have done what he said needed to be done on this unit. Thanks, Brad for your help on this unit.
 
Blue Shadow said:
Well I have replaced the diodes in the PS and added an XY cap across the power switch.
Click to expand...

Blue Shadow, do you have a P/N for the XY cap you used across the power switch? I didn't replace mine on my 1060 yet and would appreciate knowing which part you used.

Not sure if mine has the two 0.01µF 800VAC caps from AC line to chassis, but if you have a P/N on those as well, that'd be great.

Thanks.
 
72-VY2103M63Y5UG63V0

0.01uF X440 Y300VAC

From Mouser

I did find the 0.033/880VAC cap tucked in behind transformer and under the voltage change board. I left it and just added the much lower voltage XY unit.

As I learn more, I'll try and figure out all those 800 Volt caps in the unit.
 
Thanks Blue Shadow.

So you replaced the two old 0.01uF with the new ones, and added the same 0.01uF part in addition to the 0.033uF that was already there?
 
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