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AR-4x Level control repair

Andyman

Scroungus Stereophilus
Subscriber
This seems to be quite a coomon issue with the vintage ARs, not just the 4x series, so I thought I'd post some pics as I worked my way through my fix.

First, the bare cab with the grill pulled.

Yes, that's a Radio shack tweeter, but I've got a real one to replace it with.
 

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The grill on this one was held on with velcro, so I think Mr. Rat Shack replaced the staples with it when he did the tweeter. The first one I did was stapled on with these guys.
 

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Here's what they look like on the business end. FWIW, I worked on 3 of these yesterday and all had the grilles fastened in a different fashion. First was stapled, second velcro and the last was glued. I used one of those multipurpose painter tools to pry up the grilles on all 3. It's wider than a screwfriver and stronger than a putty knife, so it actually works very well if used carefully.
 

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Here's Johnny!!

Unfortunately, the leads are too short and the hole too small to work around so this guy had to get desoldered. Hopefully, it may not be an issue on 10" and 12" models. The date on this one looks to be 1966.
 

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Move aside some of the rock wool and paper muslin and the control shows up.
 

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Even with the woofer removed, the leads are very short and the cabinet is quite cramped, so I opted to cut the leads close to the terminals and pull the control out. Just remove the nut and toothe washer from the rear and pull her out. Again, on the larger models, there may be enough room to allow you to leave the unit inside the cab.

Here we are, outside and free of wire cutoffs, ready for a bath.
 

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The unit disassembles readily. Even though it has open sides and is quite accesible to a spray cleaner, if you've come this far you really need to split it open and scrub it good. The wire clip pulls right out of the two side holes and the tabs are sized so the unit only can be reassembled one way, so it's quite easy to open and close.
Actually, this one was spotless compared to the first one; it was loaded with green crusty crud.
 

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Here we go with the clean versions. I used a small, fine file and utility knife edge to chip the crud off and then scrubbed it a bit with a Scotch green pad. The biggest issue here is to not break the coiled wire; it's all over if you do.
 

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I pincehed the wiper a bit to assure a solid contact with the points and reassembled the unit, snapped on the clip and gave it a shot of DeOxit as a final lube/cleaner. I sprayed it off with canned air prior to assembly, but a little extra never hurts. I then soldered on 2-3" leads to give me a bit more room to work on during the reinstallation.
Resoldering the leads inside that 8" hole in that small cabinet was the most difficult part. Loose wires in cramped spaces and only two hands made it interesting to say the least. Plus the soldered on the removed ends made twisting interesting. I actually wound up snipping them off on the first one to get a better twist. Again, it should be easier on the bigger AR-2 and AR-3 versions.
 

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Tape up the soldered leads and that's it!
I'll use some fresh plumber's putty to seal the woofers back in and velcro the grilles on both and they are good to go. I've tested both and they work great; no more dropouts or crackle and the nasty sounding Radio Shack woofer is replaced with the OEM unit from the spare I had. I'll post pictures later toady of the finished guys.

Hope this helps anyone out ther who has the same issue. All told it took about 2 hours to do two controls and that includes swapping the tweeter and resoldering the woofers.
 
Thanks for the step by step photos Andy. The topic (cleaning the AR pots) comes up so often, this'll be a great tutorial.
 
retreatwi said:
Will this same technique work with basically any pot and not just AR pots?

Yes and No. Yes you can disassemble a pot and clean it, but no, a normal pot is not constructed to be disassembled and reassembled. The AR L-pads are designed to be maintained.

As a side note, take good care of the L-pads in your AR speakers. You can buy new L-pads from Parts Express, but they are about 2x the size and do not fit into the cabinet without major rework.
 
MarkAnderson said:
Nice tutorial, dude. I coulda done it in a hour, though..........okay, I'm kidding. :D - Mark

Not with me helping you can't! IIRC it takes about a 12 pack and about three hours... Okay, mebbe it's the 12 pack that makes it take 3 hours, I'm not really sure. :scratch2:
 
fotno said:
Not with me helping you can't! IIRC it takes about a 12 pack and about three hours... Okay, mebbe it's the 12 pack that makes it take 3 hours, I'm not really sure. :scratch2:

:lmao: I stand corrected...
 
Thankyou, that was very helpful. I just picked up some 4x's that need this done but one tweeter is not working, could the level control be the culprit? I assume it's the tweeter that's dead but I thought I would ask.
 
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