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Timeframe TF350s - Rebuild

OMI

OMI

Super Member
Finished the DIYRCM and made my way to the 350s… Spent a HOT afternoon on the 4th taking them apart. The tops just popped off as per the good Doctor… Have all the cloth off and did an initial cleaning on the cabs. Will get 2 new socks cut and sewn with black grill fabric. Will see it I can get some cloth similar to the underlayment at a fabric shop and re-do that also… I know… Do not need to do it, but I want to get ‘em back as close to original as I can.

Need to re-foam the speakers. Think I have the surrounds. Will look later this week.

Have 2 shots of the cross over. As I have never gone down the RECAP road, these may be a good starter pair to try. As I have NO IDEA what I am looking at input is solicited… If these look like the caps are the old ones that need replacing let me know… I take directions well.

Will also clean all the connections on the crossover with Deoxit when I get to that part…

This was step one…
 

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Mine looked the same but I did not go to the extent of stripping off the old black as you have. I just touched up what was there. I have not yet tried to refoam so I let the local speaker shop do my refoam job. They sound great.

The crossover pack on my TF 400's had the addition of an odd looking bulb/fuse, which saved the tweeters life before I picked them up for $30. DCM was glad to send me the fuse for the terrible price of $2.80 ea. and I got a great set of DCM's the way I like, cheap.

WIll you be trying a recap on your set? I would be curious if it would be worth the effort as I am already pleased with how mine sound and am reluctant to fix something that ain't broke.
 
Interesting from what I see. It looks like 3 caps, 2 axial electrolytics (black) and one yellow polypropylene. Your best bet would be to replace all with fresh polypropylenes since you've got it apart since that is such a PITA. Or you could go cheap and leave the yellow polypro and just replace the electrolytics with more electrolytics.
The cap values are on the sides; one electrolytic looks like a 50V 47uf cap.
Check out Parts Express for prices and make your move; their Dayton polypros should work just fine.

Good Luck!!

BTW, you got lucky with your drivers. My TimeWindows' drivers are glued in with some nasty hard black goo :thumbsdn: :thumbsdn:
 
Hmmmmm

I will get a closer look at the cross over and write down the numbers I see on all the thingies. As I am TRULY ELECTRONICALLY challenged I will post the numbers and get some input on what I need to order...

I am going to go where I have never gone before:)

BTW I did buy a fairly decent soldering station just for an adventure like this:)
 
O.K. ...
Removed the speakers and X over from one tonight. Have a few pics. The numbers on the 3 CAP are:

BLUE:
Anodia
47 uf 50v
Np +- 10%


GRAY:
6.8 uf
50Vnp

YELLOW:
150 ?u ?=triangle
2.2/10
100v

Just noticed that the other X over yellow one is marked:
225K
100CFC

These would be the items I need to replace. Right???

If so, can someone give me the item number from PartsExpress and I will order the right CAPs.

Also any pointers as to making sure I get 'em back in the right way, or does orientation matter???


The 6 1/2 inch speaker here looks good, but the other one is shot. Will refoam both.
 

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Today:

* cleaned up the cabs a bit more
* removed the drivers and X overs
* refoamed the woofers
* went ahead and placed cloth back over the cabs.
* I have someone at work that is making me the outer speaker grill cloth sock.

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 

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Got out my expando shop :) over the weekend and the Howard’s "Restor-A-Finish" and some black enamel and re-finished the top and bottoms and re-painted the back foot. Should get the NEW socks tomorrow. Looking good :banana:
Still need some help :scratch2: with picking out the replacement caps.
 

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OMI said:
O.K. ...
Removed the speakers and X over from one tonight. Have a few pics. The numbers on the 3 CAP are:

BLUE:
Anodia
47 uf 50v < 47 micro farad, Non Polarized replace with a poly cap 50Volt (rating)
Np +- 10%


GRAY:
6.8 uf < 6.8 micro farad Non Polarized same as above
50Vnp

YELLOW:
150 ?u ?=triangle < gonna guess that its a 150 micro
2.2/10
100v

Just noticed that the other X over yellow one is marked:
225K < another guess, a resistor may or may not replace, it looks ok.
100CFC

These would be the items I need to replace. Right???

If so, can someone give me the item number from PartsExpress and I will order the right CAPs.

Also any pointers as to making sure I get 'em back in the right way, or does orientation matter???


The 6 1/2 inch speaker here looks good, but the other one is shot. Will refoam both.
Click to expand...


Take a look at the crossover parts section at PE and look for these values on the Dayton cap page.
 
BTW: You may have already found this out, but the black fabric behind the grille cloth, is effectively black automotive headliner material. Thin foam glued to a fabric. Stuff is quite stretchable, therefore VERY useful for this type of application...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Gordon...

Now that you mention it.... It sure did look like OLD headliner :)
No.. I missed that one and got 3 YRDS of some stretchy black fabric at a local fabric shop... Used that... Have some PE grill cloth, and a person at work that is a seamstress on her off time, that will make me the outer socks...
 
O.K. I looked at the PE page with the caps. Listed are the numbers that LOOK like the ones on the board. Will these work????


BLUE:
Anodia
47 uf 50v
Np +- 10%

PE 027-406 DAYTON
or?
027-352 AUDIOCAP


GRAY:
6.8 uf
50Vnp

027-424 DAYTON

YELLOW:
150 ?u ?=triangle
2.2/10
100v

027-364 AUDIOCAP

Just noticed that the other X over yellow one is marked:
225K
100CFC
 
OMI said:
O.K. I looked at the PE page with the caps. Listed are the numbers that LOOK like the ones on the board. Will these work????


BLUE:
Anodia
47 uf 50v
Np +- 10%

PE 027-406 DAYTON
or?
027-352 AUDIOCAP


GRAY:
6.8 uf
50Vnp

027-424 DAYTON

YELLOW:
150 ?u ?=triangle
2.2/10
100v

027-364 AUDIOCAP

Just noticed that the other X over yellow one is marked:
225K
100CFC
Click to expand...


Just match the uf values and you should be fine. The Dayton caps really made a nice difference in a x-over upgrade I did.

You may have to de-solder the yellow cap, though it looks like a good mylar, to see the value that may be on the other side. All caps, usually, will have the uf value printed on them.

I looked at the 47 uf cap. The one you have listed is point 47uf. Make sure that the one you are replacing is point 47! (.47 uf)
Yes, those are the correct caps to use.
 
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Got the socks and put them on. One was a bit tight and I had a bit of trouble stretching it all the way over the top. In so doing I got some rubber cement on the inside of the outer sock that bled through at the top. The picks show the slight bleed. After I took the pic I hit it with a black sharpie and it looks better, but if anyone knows a good method to BLOT the glue out let me know and I will try it.

I give myself a 7.5 / 8 out of 10 so far on these speakers. I cut the hole for the X-Overs this morning, and after the rubber cement has the better part of a day to set and dry, I will re-install the X-Overs temporarily and see how they sound.

Will finalize and order the caps next week, but I do want to see what these speakers sound like today :banana: :banana:
 

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Great work!

I have one question for you. I have a pair of Time Windows. Under the sock there is a think foam material. Mine look like a cat got at them. The sock is actually ok, but the foam under is not so hot. Is this what you and Gordon were talking about? I'd love to find a suitable material to replace it. Other than that my Time Windows are pretty nice.

Take care,

Ed
 
Being HOT AS HELL down here in L.A. (Lower ALabama) the glue is dry, so I hooked them up... Do not sound bad with my little garage amp.... Will drag them into the house later and listen to the wife ....... :rant:

I will hook them up to a better amp and give them a test run later today... Glad I culled some stuff and donated to a guy at work that is a pastor at a small church... I have room for these:) Now if I get anything else... :headscrat:
 
Gordon identified that the material was headliner. An Auto upholstery shop may have it. I just went down to the local fabric shop and got 3 yards of some black stretchy thick stuff. Have no idea what it was... Cost $10.00 / YD. Most likely Wally World may have had cheaper stuff but....

If you replace the under lament material you might as well replace the sock also. You will need to take the sock off to get the other stuff off. As you can see from my pics that other stuff is a mess... You will have to clean the old deteriorated foam from the cabs, top to bottom. The sock will be dirty and contaminated with crud. You might be able to wash it? If you know someone that is good with a sewing machine get some grill cloth and have them sew you 2 new socks.

I had a yard of black grill cloth from Parts Express. You need to get 2 yards. The 1 yard was ALMOST to short. The speakers size is deceving and there is more material there then it looks like (on my 350s)..

The under lament material gets glued completely around the cabs... You will have to glue it over the speaker cut outs and X-Over cut outs. A bit of a pain, but the important thing is to make sure you cut the piece of material BIG ENOUGH to be able to work with it at the top and bottom. There is a tendency to want to cut the excess material from the top and bottom too early.... If you do you will not have enough material to get the top and bottom done all the way.

The socks just slip over the cabs. They are glued on to the top and bottom of the cab, and no where else. I could not get the rubber cement to grip well enough so I ended up using a staple gun with short staples to hold the material in place and let the glue get hold. Same with the socks... Make sure that they are tall enough to give you PLENTY of material to work with when to set them in place on the tops and bottoms... You can always cut off excess material... BUT YOU CAN NOT ADD ANY BACK ON IF IT IS TOO SHORT...

Hope this helps…
 
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Thanks OMI-

Hey, were the drivers glued in? They are on my Time Windows. I had to repair a wooger and finally gave up trying to get it out. I fixed it in place! I'd have to get them out to do the foam stuff.

Thanks,

Ed
 
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