• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Speaker refinishing and refurbishing: Post your experiences and photos here.

N

Njord Noatun

Super Member
Banned
I am an enthusiast woodworker: Therefore, refinishing vintage speaker cabinets to their former glory represents the pleasure of marrying my interest in woodworking with that of vintage audio. If you have completed a speaker refurbishing project, whether it is refoaming, reconing, recapping or cabinet refinishing, please explain your process, your experiences and mistakes, the source and type of materials, etc. here. Please post before and/or after photos if you have them.

The next post in this thread will be process details on a recently completed refurb on my ADS L-810's.

Rgds,
 
Register to hide this ad
ADS L-810 refinish.

As duly noted here in an earlier thread, I recently acquired some early production ADS L-810 (consecutive serial #'s) at a local garage sale. They were a little beat up, and I have restored them as follows.

Cabinets: Scratches on top steamed and largely removed with damp cloth and hot iron. Cabinets lightly sanded (220 and 400 grit) and refinished with Watco Danish oil (Neutral) (do not use polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer - ever!). Once oil is fully cured (at least 72 hours), lightly burnish the cabinets with Fine (# 0000) steel wool for that ultra-fine, hand-rubbed, satin finish. After all that work, here is the real treat: Apply a thin coat of paste wax (I use Minwax Neutral), then rub it down with a terry cloth after about 15 minutes (this process is akin to paste polishing your car) - this will really bring the sheen out!

Baffle and back-board cleaned and spruced up (I used paste wax). ADS sticker on the rear was coming off and was glued back.

Drivers: Woofers had several puncture holes (caused by previous owner's cat) in butyl surrounds, cone and dust cover. Sealed from the backside with GE Silicone Sealant II.

Grille: Frames resprayed. Speaker cloth purchased from Parts Express (using the link from AK) and applied with hot-glue. New velcro strips attached with staples. ADS emblems purchased from ADS restorer Richard So in Phoenix, AZ.

Stands: The original Braun stands have been re-sprayed with Satin Black Rustoleum - they now look as good as new. Furniture pads applied to stand bottoms to isolate stands/speakers and to protect my hardwood floors. Thanks to the use of stands through their life, the underside of the speakers are in perfect condition.

The color of the cabs is Oak (as opposed to the darker Mahogany finish) - I really like the blond tint as it fits in nicely with my furnishings. I also like the look of them with the stands (my wife calls them "R2D2" - I can live with that, but thought that this term was reserved for ESS AMT's!).

Overall, the speakers now look as good as new: They will never become "$1,000 eBay jobs" due to the driver puncture scars, but will serve my use as primary living room speakers, hopefully for a long time.

If anyone has ideas for further restoration ideas for sonic improvement (recapping, reconing), please let me know.

Photos enclosed.

Rgds,
 

Attachments

  • adsl810a.jpg
    adsl810a.jpg
    98.2 KB · Views: 765
  • adsl810b.jpg
    adsl810b.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 471
  • adsl810c.jpg
    adsl810c.jpg
    115.5 KB · Views: 468
  • adsl810d.jpg
    adsl810d.jpg
    99 KB · Views: 479
This should be a fun thread to watch. I've dne sveral pairs this year, here is a sampling of my labor.

Trashed A25s done in Makore veneer.
A25Makore.jpg


Very trashed JBL L77s in quarter-sawn oak. The cabs were so bad the corners were pulled apart a fair amount. Rebuilt corners and veneered.
JBLL77.jpg


Frazier Dixielanders. Doucanoe's bass bins veneered in Mahogany. One done the other not.
DixielanderBoth.jpg


There was more, Karlsons, Tannoys, ESS AMT 4s and a pair of Fostex horns to name a few.

Can't wait to see everyones successes.
 
While not refinishing, this is custom wood working. Brazilian Rosewood veneer done in four mirrored pieces for affect.


jblhorntops640.jpg
 
Njord Noatun said:
As duly noted here in an earlier thread, I recently acquired some early production ADS L-810 (consecutive serial #'s) at a local garage sale. They were a little beat up, and I have restored them as follows.

Cabinets: Scratches on top steamed and largely removed with damp cloth and hot iron. Cabinets lightly sanded (220 and 400 grit) and refinished with Watco Danish oil (Neutral) (do not use polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer - ever!). Once oil is fully cured (at least 72 hours), lightly burnish the cabinets with Fine (# 0000) steel wool for that ultra-fine, hand-rubbed, satin finish.


Rgds,
Click to expand...
I have been acquiring speakers for the last few months for restoration and I am with you on scratch removal etc. but I do have a question. Do you do any preliminary cleaning of the cabinets prior to sanding. Most cabinets are veneers so I am really conservative when it comes to applying abrasives to them. And I certainly agree that sealers are a bad thing. If you are going to ruin a nice piece of cabinetry that way, you may as well paint it. I refinished cue sticks for friends when I was still running in the bars and #0000 steel wool is the "bees knees". A finish so smooth that people swore I was using something on them like a poly.:smoke:
 
Wow...great work guys!

I'm currently working on some ADS L-780s and will have to post some pics later. I already fixed the metal grill covers. By banging out the dents. It was pretty easy and managed not to scratch them.

I've also done some Infinity RSbs, HPM-100s, AR-2Ax, and Thiels. Working with wood is such a pleasure and the results are beautiful.
 
ejfud said:
Very trashed JBL L77s in quarter-sawn oak. The cabs were so bad the corners were pulled apart a fair amount. Rebuilt corners and veneered.
JBLL77.jpg
Click to expand...
:thmbsp: That is a beautiful cabinet.:thmbsp:

I also love woodworking and really want to build a set of real wood cabinets. I have done a bit of research on wood characteristics. Longterm shrinkage/warping is one of the concerns I have. :scratch2: That combined with environment and treatment of cabinet over time could be a signifigant factor in the case of the JBL's. Moisture is practically non-existant out here in AZ but I can see how it could be a factor in other places.

I am a subscriber to Wood Magazine which has a lot of good info and a fairly decent forum, nothing like AK mind you. Plenty of reliable information, some decent links and tons of free DIY plans concerning woodworking.

My personal debate over wood vs plywood vs mdf continues but the fog is beginning to lift.:smoke: :smoke:
 
I have only dabbled, sanding and oiling when the cabs are rough.

No model 4 way Pioneers...

50576587-L.jpg


Some corner cab I was given. Put new molding around the top and re-veneered it...

50577715-L.jpg


Sand and oil KLH 23's (did 4 of them) Before...

59914551-L.jpg


After...

59914555-L.jpg


There were thrashed Sylvania AS125's i got from my sister. Kind of cool speakers. Dome mids and tweetes and really nice cabs...

67476459-L.jpg


67476469-L.jpg
 
cheon57 said:
Do you do any preliminary cleaning of the cabinets prior to sanding. Most cabinets are veneers so I am really conservative when it comes to applying abrasives to them.
Click to expand...
Yes, I would remove everything possible (e.g., paint spray, stains) using a mild detergent and going up to paint thinner, if necessary. And yes, the veneer is extremely thin - belt and orbital sanders are totally off limits; only hand sanding with a block or a small vibrating sander, if you dare. Only extremely fine sandpaper - 220 grit and finer, and whatever you do, stay off those corners and edges: You will only be able to apply very minor sanding, and only by hand, on the front edge - if not, you will be rounding the edges.

One trick I forgot about: Once you have sanded down the cabinet with 220, wipe it down with a wet rag, and let it dry thoroughly: This will raise the fibres in the wood, which can then be sanded down with the next grit up (400). That way, there are no more fibres that can raise when you apply the final (oil) finish, and the cab will stay super-smooth.

Rgds,
 
I am still working on these. Two pair of AR-7's done in quartersawn oak. I am going to apply a stain then a semigloss sealer.

IMG_0608.jpg


speakers1.jpg
 
cheon57 said:
Do you do any preliminary cleaning of the cabinets prior to sanding.
Click to expand...

I like to rub them down with laquer thinner before sanding to remove any dirt/oil/wax/etc. This stuff will load up your sandpaper in a hurry.
 
Hey Spartanmanor, I am VERY impressed with the AR-7 project. I have 2 pairs that I really would like to refinish someday.

Here's a few of my restortations thus far...

AR-7, AR-6, AR-4x, AR-3a

dsc05210ku6.jpg



Ar-4x

dsc05015mb0.jpg


dsc05013ts0.jpg




AR-3a

ar3a25po.jpg
 
Eunomians said:
Hey Spartanmanor, I am VERY impressed with the AR-7 project. I have 2 pairs that I really would like to refinish someday.
Click to expand...

Actually, you have been very inspirational to me. I always enjoy reading your posts on AR's. I am keeping my eyes open for some AR-3a's, I know they will find me one day soon. You have a great collection there. :thmbsp:

The AR-7’s sound great, I know the quartersawn oak is not a correct restoration but I had a bunch of it lying around and they should look pretty darn good when finished. A lot better than the vinyl and at $10 a pair at GW I figure I can't lose. I still need to refoam one pair and make new grill covers.
 
eunomians has a hip looking pad, too. 20's craftsman by the look of it. my own first house was a little Sears Craftsman built in 1921...
 
I live in a 20's neighborhood. My house was built in '24, Spanish Mission. Now you know why I have the quartersawn oak veneer.....goes good with Mission furniture. :thmbsp:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom