Dumont pp el84 console pull questions.

Bicyclist

Super Member
I had this in my garage forever and finally decided to get it out. I had enough coupling caps to completely replace all of them and the electrolytic bypass caps. I have stuff on order for the can caps. To check my work I brought it up slowly with a cd player as source. It's going through altec flamencos so it's being done a favor. Anyway the can caps are cold, the amp sounds amazing and I have to wonder why I didn't do this a long time ago.17725858652484703580900525556353.jpg17725858368723832149752369523396.jpg
 
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Well today I replaced the death cap with an xy cap and recapped the power supply. Since I was working on an extreme budget and this is no beauty contest, I cut off the cans with a hack saw and drilled the can base plates to allow me to mount the caps there. This may offend some, but it's working fine and I think might be easier to service later. One thing I want to change is where the input leads are routed. Right across the front of the power transformer! The transformer itself hums a tad but I think I'm picking up him on the input leads too. It's really pretty insignificant but it's hard to stop improving you know? Also if anyone wonders, these are intended for 8 ohm speakers. I found the speakers in the garage as well. However I'm still digging it through 16ohm altec flamencos.1772749383258797881488386605804.jpg
 
You might be able to find some thin wall aluminum or copper tubing and rubing caps to go over those cut off cap bases if you wanted. Even PVC pipe and caps maybe?
 
I did this when I built a SS rectifier. I added a thermistor and resistor also. I found a short piece of copper tubing that fit the base and a copper cap that fit the tubing. I used JB Weld to hold it all together.
 
I did this when I built a SS rectifier. I added a thermistor and resistor also. I found a short piece of copper tubing that fit the base and a copper cap that fit the tubing. I used JB Weld to hold it all together.
It never hurts to have a nice esthetic.
 
the caps in my S-7000 were cut and spliced back together with aluminum tape after I stuffed them with new caps. Its not perfect but it cost basically nothing and its not real obvious from the top that anything was done.
 
the caps in my S-7000 were cut and spliced back together with aluminum tape after I stuffed them with new caps. Its not perfect but it cost basically nothing and its not real obvious from the top that anything was done.
You know I still have the can tops. If I cleaned them out I could use the shells.
 
I cleaned out the cans a put them back on with painters tape. I'll do better later but it does look less dangerous. Also the filament supply leads are not very well twisted, especially on the first stage 12ax7s. Do you guys think it's worth twisting them a bit?Messenger_creation_482DBC04-C2B8-4D47-B463-2D2F048384D5.png
 
if its not humming, i probably wouldn't risk damaging the sockets to mess with the wiring, especially if they are wafer sockets. If you've ever been in a Magnavox 9300, those aren't twisted at all and aren't noisy.
 
if its not humming, i probably wouldn't risk damaging the sockets to mess with the wiring, especially if they are wafer sockets. If you've ever been in a Magnavox 9300, those aren't twisted at all and aren't noisy.
The power amp isn't humming. The pre is a bit as you turn the volume up but I'm going to try some quieter 12ax7s. I really just have random preamp tubes in it. The outputs however are Voice of Music branded RCA's. Them and the output trannies seem very healthy.
 
If you look at old audio magazines from the 50s and early 60s there are ads for many companies that did not survive. (Dumont being one)
There is probably a lot of gold in the sluice there; on occasion somebody posts here that they found sothe
The other side of the room has a st35 driving EVs and it's probably more honest but this amp is a ton of fun.
 
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