Printing a new Marantz light bay

Warren-Oates

Warren-Oates

One Dim Bulb
Subscriber
As has been discussed on AK many times, the light bay used in the 70's Marantz receivers is often found damaged, cracked up or badly melted (from too hot bulbs being installed). Recently I worked on a unit where the bay was hopelessly melted and deformed. I printed and installed the light bay that is posted on AK. I had to print it 3 times though, and I got 2 bays that are acceptable and 1 that is just too shabby to use. Printing these is more difficult than usual because of all the protrusions, vents and ledges, etc. It can lead to a stringy mess or a terrible amount of nasty support webbing that needs to be dug out from the final print. I knew there had to be a best or least much better way to print the part. I had a friend of mine who has done a lot of 3D printing examine the stl file and come up with a routine that he thought was best. I gave that refined print file a shot and sure enough it was a much better print, almost no stringy strands and minimal supports to peel off. It uses tree branch supports in just the right spots. When the print is done they fall right off with ease. This is for Bambu printers, using the Bambu slicing software, I am not sure if it will work with anything else. Bambu is very common though and used by a lot of 3D printers. Below is a pic of printed bay, you can see a few of the branch supports still in place, and they do easily peel off. To use this print file just open the project in your Bambu software, select your printer and filament, and of course make sure you have the STL file posted on AK (edit, nope the project file is all that is needed). The file is posted as a zip because AK only allows a few types of files to be posted. After you download this file you will need to rename it's extension to "3mf" (a Bambu project extension).

A big thanks to the kind AKer who posted the STL a few years back when they repaired their 2275 (I think). And an edit for clarity, though this was for a 2275, the same Marantz light bay was used in a lot of models.

Bay_Supports_.jpg
 
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I just realized with the above project file you do NOT need to also download the stl posted by the other Ak member. If you need the STL for other purposes it's there. The project file above is all you need to print in Bambu.
 
I recently printed the 2325 one (I think modified from 2250?) that was posted on Thingiverse. For a first time print it turned out ok, but definitely could be improved (some stringing and general non-uniformity on the outer walls). I printed mine in white PETG on a Bambu A1 fwiw. It did install ok in the unit and looks fine with the unit reassembled.

Do you know what models yours will fit? I do think they were interchangeable on at least some models.
 
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Not sure, but perhaps any marantz that uses the same chassis. Many models appear to use this chassis. I think the 2325 though is a bigger chassis. And to be clear the modeling was not done by me, the print settings are my contribution here.
 
I printed this in PETG last night and while most of it looked great, one end lifted off the bed during the print so it's curved on the front. Will make a second attempt this week.
 
Hmm, I only printed it in PLA. Sounds like it warped on it's own. Have not seen that before. I think PLA will be ok for leds, maybe not incandescent bulb use. PetG should print, but post if you find the reason for the warp.
 
Thanks for the updated .STL, @Warren-Oates. Printed this file for my 2275 with a QIDI Plus4 printer, with no warp or problems with either the gray PLA or the white PETG.
LrvcAHl.jpeg


42RRJad.jpeg


pPR2J8H.jpeg



If anyone without a 3D printer needs the small housing for a:
2220B, 2225, 2226, 2230B, 2235B, 2238, 2240, 2240B, 2250, 2250B, 2252, 2265, 2275, 2285, 4230, 4240, 4270

Or the large housing for a:
2325, 4300, 4400 and other black dialed 22XX Marantz models with 6 dial lamps - these are of really good quality, nearly no layer lines, and will be white PETG for high heat and a factory look. Feel free to PM if you need one.
 
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I re-printed on my Bambu A1 and for a second time the front end of the shroud separated from the bed during the print resulting in a curved front face. This was again with white PETG. Looks like I will have to mess with my print settings.
 
What temp is your heater bed set for? What about extruder temp?

For PETG, I'm using QIDI brand PETG-Tough filament, with 80°C bed temp and 240°C extruder temp, no warp or bed curl at all, even with the widest, or large lamp housing.

Printing:
N9zOv0v.jpeg


Finished small and large housings:
ebJPONH.jpeg


nsDBtnq.jpeg


uYQWKaW.jpeg
 
Namlook said:
I re-printed on my Bambu A1 and for a second time the front end of the shroud separated from the bed during the print resulting in a curved front face. This was again with white PETG. Looks like I will have to mess with my print settings.
Click to expand...

The A1 is an open air printer. I believe without an enclosed area to print in PETG will be a tough print. I have not used an A1 though, so perhaps there is more to it.
 
I bought a Marantz 2325 two months ago.
However, the lamp housing was almost completely melted and unusable, so I found a Ramp Housing STL file online, printed it out, and replaced it. A few parts didn't quite fit my chassis, but I fixed them and had no trouble installing it. I'll upload the file here.
For reference, I printed it with PA6-CF carbon-reinforced filament and am using it with just a black base and an LED lamp installed.
The part that needs fixing is that the spacing of the lower protrusions is not right, so it needs to be adjusted slightly.
 

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