KLH 20plus Console -1965

[bjames]

What is it worth? My father is original owner - I have the receipt for $525 in 1965.
Link to Pictures Unused for most of last 35 years. Always stored indoors (not in an attic).
I have the 3 white/metal bases.

Speakers work and sound good. I have them hooked to a Receiver (8ohm) playing at low volume.
Console has not yet been powered on.

thanks

 

[Orwell84]

It's value is priceless since its from your father and you probably would have a hard time finding another one in the same shape in the world. Vintage KLH speakers are sought after and restored so if you do want to sell it I would think you could find a buyer.

 

[bigcaddy64]

What is it worth? My father is original owner - I have the receipt for $525 in 1965.
Link to Pictures Unused for most of last 35 years. Always stored indoors (not in an attic).
I have the 3 white/metal bases.

Speakers work and sound good. I have them hooked to a Receiver (8ohm) playing at low volume.
Console has not yet been powered on.

I'd like to sell this. Any comments/advice on how to prep or sell it?
Shipping will be a huge pain (I am in Georgia btw).

thanks

Their value seems to vary quite a bit. I don't see any records of recent sales but i've seen them go for $1000 or as low as a few hundred (local pickup) Due to the design, they are sought after by the MCM crowd (my in-laws bought 1 of mine for one of their downtown lofts furnished in that style) but i don't know how much demand Georgia will produce for such a unit. Shipping is a bear due to weight and the added stands not really fitting in standard boxes.

 

[swechsler]

It's hard to overstate how revolutionary the KLH-20 was, even though it doesn't seem like much these days. This was a stereo that you didn't need to be an expert to purchase or set up. Back then you'd be dependent on a salesperson to guide you through the purchase of a system, and then hope that you could figure everything out once you got it home. Plug this in, connect the speakers and you're done. Unlike the console systems sold contemporaneously with this, one person could move it, and it didn't take up an entire wall. And unlike the compact systems that came a few years later, this one was actually good quality, even by today's standards.

Without shipping, be prepared to be disappointed in the price you can get. The fact that you're essentially the original owner and you have the stands is a bonus, but as @bigcaddy64 stated, local demand may be low. I'm assuming you don't have the original boxes. My recommendation would be to put a listing on eBay for local pickup, set the price on the high side but make it clear in the auction text that you'll consider reasonable offers. Include many detailed pictures of the speakers and main unit, all sides, with and without the grilles, document any damages to the finish, and whether everything works properly. Include a pic of the receipt as well. And be patient. Unless you're in a hurry to sell, wait a little while and see what sort of offers you get.

 

[alteclipsch]

The stands add as much value as the components themselves. The speakers are excellent quality and sound almost exactly like the KLH model Seventeen, they are different in that they have jacks instead of knurled screw connectors, 4 ohm rather than 8 ohm woofers, and may lack the badges.

I agree with everything said above.

That system was all the rage back in the day. Good luck with it.

 

[hornbostel]

Beautiful.

You actually have a fairly rare version of the KLH 20 system. Yours include the nicer cabinet for the turntable/receiver plus the speakers are designed to be placed sideways on stands. The speaker terminals are actually on the side/bottom instead of the back. Pretty cool. This particular system won an art/design award back in the day. If restored and functional this system can command a solid price.

I’ve got two KLH 20 systems (one with and one without the AM tuner). I’ve renovated the speakers and they sound great. I’ve also renovated the receivers. I just haven’t had the time to get to the turntables, although each work (just not the changer functionality).

The KLH 20 system was the very first hi-fi all-in-one system. For this reason it is iconic. And these systems actually sound pretty darn good. Not going to shake the house. But for background listening in a small room it not only sounds good but also looks awesome. One of the only things I own that my wife approves of!

 

[visman]

Iconic set! I have a fully functioning one and would value it at $1000 - though it would likely take time to get the right buyer. The look of the KLH Model 20+ is pure mid century and the sound is actually very good. Chances are the turntable mechanism will need a good cleaning. I agree a good bit of the value is in the three tulip stands. For those wondering here is what the 20+ looks like (not my pic)...

 

[bjames]

Iconic set! I have a fully functioning one and would value it at $1000 - though it would likely take time to get the right buyer. The look of the KLH Model 20+ is pure mid century and the sound is actually very good. Chances are the turntable mechanism will need a good cleaning. I agree a good bit of the value is in the three tulip stands. For those wondering here is what the 20+ looks like (not my pic)...

View attachment 2165395

Re AC Power - Do you know if polarity matters?
The power connector has 2 male posts and uses a non-standard plug (and no ground wire).
I want to connect AC power to test the console - and will attach power to those posts.
I downloaded a PDF of schematics. The image is from the schematic and shows what I think is the AC input.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9qy2PNYHKAH2tQam9

 

[jberger]

"a non-standard plug"? Meaning a standard, non-polarized two-prong power plug found on thousands of lamps and radios prior to enforcing polarization?

Or is it a different connector entirely, and the unit is wired for UK 220v power, or Japan 100v? Give us a picture.

 

[visman]

Re AC Power - Do you know if polarity matters?
The power connector has 2 male posts and uses a non-standard plug (and no ground wire).
I want to connect AC power to test the console - and will attach power to those posts.
I downloaded a PDF of schematics. The image is from the schematic and shows what I think is the AC input.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9qy2PNYHKAH2tQam9

Mine has a standard ungrounded 110V plug - like a lamp would use.

 

[bjames]

"a non-standard plug"? Meaning a standard, non-polarized two-prong power plug found on thousands of lamps and radios prior to enforcing polarization?

Or is it a different connector entirely, and the unit is wired for UK 220v power, or Japan 100v? Give us a picture.

It is US 117v AC - see link to pictures - I just added some showing AC connector. The "White Plug/Cord" ran from the Rear Panel, to the Bottom Panel (along with Speaker Outputs)....it seems to be there to allow your choice of connections on Rear, or Bottom. I do not have the original cord for connecting unit to the Wall... hence my question about polarity.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3tqgxSezJDJwxJvFA

 

[jberger]

I see the situation now; a proprietary end on the power cord. I see two choices: find another cord on eBay that matches this, or replace the socket with a standard IEC power socket (like you'd see on a computer or monitor). It looks like there are only two wires for power, and two rivets to drill out to remove the existing one. Then you could use a standard power cord.

Something like these:

 

[Orwell84]

Read this and make yourself one before you plug it in since it hasn't been powered up in years.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...ial-please-feel-free-to-copy-and-post.875584/

 

[swechsler]

I see the situation now; a proprietary end on the power cord. I see two choices: find another cord on eBay that matches this, or replace the socket with a standard IEC power socket (like you'd see on a computer or monitor). It looks like there are only two wires for power, and two rivets to drill out to remove the existing one. Then you could use a standard power cord.

I wouldn't make any modifications that can't be undone, I think that might reduce the value. For testing, I'd probably just solder a line cord to the inside portion of the power terminals without removing anything. Polarity isn't important.

Or take an IEC C7 (figure-8) cord, and split the plug down the center with a sharp knife, then connect the two sides each to one terminal. Make sure you don't cut into the wire itself.

 

[bjames]

Update & Turntable Help: I solved the plug problem, connected AC power, and found the console is dead. I saw this KLH Repair video where the idea of removing the chassis is suggested (so you can ship the electronics for repair.) So I removed the chassis, which then allows you to remove the turntable (note the Power & RCA plugs). During this time I am not looking for a Repair shop but no luck so far. I exchanged email with the 'KLH Repair video' guy who said parts (eg Germanium Transistors) can be expensive abd hard to find.

I am now looking for help repairing/testing just the turntable. What power supply do I need? How do I wire it to the connector? What about mechanical/lube - it has not been used in 30 years.
I have an old phono preamp with RCA jacks that I'm hoping would connect to the Turntable's RCA plugs.

Also - re the Tuning Indicator - the Tuning Knob came off, but the station Indicator has a fastener. Any idea how to remove this?

Any advice appreciated. I am willing to paypal someone for their help - I think a few emails would suffice. If interested - start a conversation and we can can chat. Thank You!

 

[visman]

I suggest a few simple things to consider - first, what do you mean by “console is dead”? Do lights come on, does the turntable do anything, did you blow a fuse? Is the picture in your folder showing speaker wires under star screws and (I think) power chord soldered in - your setup? I’m confused on the speaker connections - are they isolated from ground? I don’t see the value in working on the turntable until you get the console sorted out.

 

[visman]

Also - I would start a new post in Solid State (Audio Forums) as your questions are no longer value related - lots of good help there.

 

[bjames]

I suggest a few simple things to consider - first, what do you mean by “console is dead”? Do lights come on, does the turntable do anything, did you blow a fuse? Is the picture in your folder showing speaker wires under star screws and (I think) power chord soldered in - your setup? I’m confused on the speaker connections - are they isolated from ground? I don’t see the value in working on the turntable until you get the console sorted out.

Thanks for the reply. I found an original cord/plug and checked continuity on it. When connected the KLHt "works" as if there were no power - switches do nothing, no lights, etc.. I concluded there was a problem in the "chassis" which is my word for all the electronics. The speakers work and sound great when wired to a separate/working (Technics) receiver. My thinking is the 'chassis' may be repairable if I find a shop to send it to. Until then, I am trying to determine if the turntable works (by adding attaching a working power supply and preamp.

 

[swechsler]

The turntable motor should run on 120V. That looks like a standard 4 pin Molex connector, which was common (dare I say "standard"?) on this type of console-mounted turntable. One pin should go directly to the motor, a second pin would go to the switch that was activated by the switch on top, which in turn would go back to the motor. A third pin (green wire) is ground. The last pin is wired to the other side of the switch, to be sent back to the console to automatically turn it on (i.e. it would bypass the power switch on the electronics) when the turntable was switched on. I don't know if that function was used in the KLH-20, but I would assume so. I couldn't find a wiring diagram so I couldn't tell you which pin is which, but for the second pin, you want the side of the switch that isn't connected to the motor.

Obviously the RCA jacks would be wired to the phono input on the amp.

 

[bjames]

The turntable motor should run on 120V. That looks like a standard 4 pin Molex connector, which was common (dare I say "standard"?) on this type of console-mounted turntable. One pin should go directly to the motor, a second pin would go to the switch that was activated by the switch on top, which in turn would go back to the motor. A third pin (green wire) is ground. The last pin is wired to the other side of the switch, to be sent back to the console to automatically turn it on (i.e. it would bypass the power switch on the electronics) when the turntable was switched on. I don't know if that function was used in the KLH-20, but I would assume so. I couldn't find a wiring diagram so I couldn't tell you which pin is which, but for the second pin, you want the side of the switch that isn't connected to the motor. Obviously the RCA jacks would be wired to the phono input on the amp.

• A closeup pic of the motor shows an imprint. I can make out "100-130v 4A 10W 40 - 60"
• The Molex/Amplok differ in shape of the pins (round vs flat) so I cut the chassis side connector and will attach that to a 3 wire AC cord.
• Did you see this close up pic of the connector/switch? I believe the 'switch' you refer to is the dark plastic box next to the connector? It seems to have Brown/Red IN, and Black OUT to the Motor.
• I have an AC cord with White/Black/Green wires. Should I go Cord Black to Black, Cord White to Red, Green to Green, and ignore Brown?
• Note: The turntable needs to work without the chassis (as the chassis may never be repaired). Would it make sense to bypass the 'switch' by connecting Cord Black and Cord White direct to the Motor ? I would add an On/off switch.

Thank You