L1387Solo DAC/Headphone Amp - A variant of the 8x TDA1387 DACs

northpaw

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I’ve been looking around for an inexpensive DAC with optical, coax, and USB inputs and a headphone amp for use in a bedroom system. I’ve been intrigued by descriptions here (especially numerous posts by mjw21a) and elsewhere of boards with 8 paralleled recycled Philips TDA1387 DACs, which are made by some Chinese manufacturers from old sound cards.

These DAC boards have been around in various forms for at least 5 years, but the one I decided to try is a made-up device from an eBay seller that seems to be a relatively new variant, fitted with a “Solo” based circuit for the headphone amp, at $69. This one is listed as capable of delivering about 200mW into 32Ω (more than adequate for my small collection of earphones with similar impedance) and drops to 43mW at 600Ω. In contrast to the earlier devices I saw using the 8x 1387 DACs, this unit uses a higher voltage 24VDC power supply, presumably required by the headphone amp.

The physical quality of the DAC is quite good. Its an all-metal extruded Al case very similar to those used for some 2.5” computer drives. Overall it is pretty light, so it can be a bit tippy with 2 RCA cables on the outputs and another on coax input. The volume pot has a solid, viscous feel. The device comes supplied with a 24VDC 2amp power brick (although the eBay listing did not state that explicitly). Its light, so I am sure it is a switching type; I measured well below 1 mVAC of ripple on it.

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Inside, it looks good as well. Of note is that what look like the coupling caps on the RCA outputs are axial Philips KO 22µF/40V, of a paler lavender color. I don’t believe these are current production, and could be recycled or NOS components. The other electrolytic caps inside include Nichicon PA, Rubycon PK, JCCON low ESR caps; these all appear to be 105° rated. There are two voltage regulators for 12V and 18V (STMicro 7812 and 7818) and three “shunt” linear regulators (Advanced Monolithic AMS1117). The one opamp I saw was an Analog Devices AD823 JFET input opamp. The digital receiver is a Cirrus Logic CS8416. All in all, some thought seems to have been given to the design and components used (i.e., not the cheapest possible parts).

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Soldering quality looks very good, the board was clean of residual flux, and there is no glue on the caps:). The unit gets ever so slightly warm to the touch after playing for a few hours. The power brick stays cool to the touch.

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Soundwise, I find this DAC very pleasing. Bass extension is very good (I was surprised by this as I thought I read that strong bass was not a forte for these DACs) and not muddy; shimmer on cymbals was delicately rendered. Violins sound clear and sweet where they should be sweet (e.g., The Lark Ascending by Vaughn Williams) and piercing where they should be so (e.g., the opening of Winter by Vivaldi), and without grit or harshness. Clarinets and trumpets similarly. Cellos and saxes had the deeper sonorous tones I expect to hear from them. Everything I played sounded engaging and non-fatiguing, always a good sign. Overall, for me, for relatively low-complexity music such as piano and violin sonatas, female vocals, etc., it provided as reasonable an approach to an in-the-room feel as I can expect from the system I tried it on (Nak SR-3A receiver and DCM TW1 speakers). I need to spend more time with it to evaluate how it renders more complex symphonic music over long passages, but it sounds promising so far. So does the headphone amp. Like the RCA outputs it is dead quiet (disclosure: my hearing tops out at 10kHz), and there is a fairly gentle response to the volume pot, allowing fine adjustment.

I am agnostic about the R2R vs DS debate (and have no desire to engage in that here); presently I have good examples of both (Adcom GDA-700 and Cambridge Audio DacMagic) and find them both very satisfying. It is early days yet for me with the 8x L1387Solo DAC (I’ve played it just for a couple of days), but at present I am finding myself happy to listen to any of these 3 DACs, and find them much more similar than different. Virtually all my non-radio listening is Red Book CDs. If my needs change in the future, the DacMagic and this L1387 (on its coax input) can accept higher resolution feeds, although I have no idea if they will be competitive in that arena with DACs based on more modern chips.

Quirks:
— The case is mislabeled for 15VDC power instead of 24VDC. Seems to be an oversight, or perhaps they have just recently been making the Solo amp version and have not yet produced an updated end plate; the case and its labeling are in fact identical to the L1387 DAC version with the JLH 1969-based amp circuit; you would not know which one it was without opening it up..
— For CD playing via coax input, I hear a slight pop (via the RCA outs to an amp) when the DAC unlocks/locks on the signal (e.g., when opening/closing the CD drawer). I haven’t yet fully explored if this is present for other players (I am using a Pioneer DVP-V7400 as a transport at present) or on other inputs, but I do not recall getting a pop when I hooked up a CCA to the optical input and initiated a radio station stream (listening with earphones in this case).
— The 4 LEDs (three for source indication, one for signal lock) are quite bright, a bit much for a dark room. At least they are red.
 
Nice review. These really are great little DAC's for the cost. I had the JLH Hood version of this and lent to a mate.... Never did the boomerang so I guess he likes it. I'm running the USB powered ones for desktop computer use and one of my mates is into moving these into a new case and upgrading to better film caps.... Colours his sound with cap choice.

Really though, I'm not aware of anything comes close in this price point.
 
I continue to be pleased with this device. At some point I would like to test it out downstairs where I do my closer listening and have a more extensive listening experience on my main system.

It is true that there isn't much room inside the case for upgrades that add any bulk. On this one, they have trimmed off the top of the metal tabs on the 2 voltage regulators, and even ground off some of the plastic on the tops of the RCA output and Optical input jack fittings, so those would clear the case. Along with the soldering, it is bit of a clue that these are small production units and to a large extent hand made. But with everything on a single board and no connections except the external ones, I can see that it would be fairly easy to mount this to a different case.

At this point, the only mod I'm keen to do is finding a way to electrically dim the LEDs. I have some dimming film over them at present.
 
True, dat.

From the "I sometimes shop at the Ladies counter" department, I decided to try applying a small dab of black nail polish to the tips of the LEDs, using a toothpick.

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Won't know until tonight is this is enough, but it looks like it will block the worst of the glare from a front-on direction.
 
Mmmmm, I've now found these discrete "MAF80" R2R DAC boards from Venezuela to be even better than the TDA1387 DAC's..... Quite a bit more expensive though nothing like my the cost of my top performing DAC's which are all TDA1541 or TDA1540D (which are not even in the same ball park pricewise) but still inexpensive for a fully discrete R2R.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R-2R-R2...m4b7900e7e5:g:rqQAAOSwQpte-mqU&frcectupt=true
 
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12k output impedance doesn't look suitable for driving anything other than a local buffer. I can't see much logic there for getting the serial protocol into the shift registers - they must have a neat trick for that. The vertical power socket is a big turn off for me personally I guess I'm too picky!

Speaking of picky I can't quite see how they justify the $195 price. Normally DACs like this would use better than 0.1% resistors - the Yageos they are using (144 off) aren't very expensive. I estimate no more than $7 spent on them. So where does the rest go?
 
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Interesting DAC. I hadn't seen a fully discrete implementation like that; maybe I need to get out more. It does remind one of the scale of what is routinely packed into ICs.
 
There's a few. There's a number of Chinese ones which are about half 1/3 that price too on Aliexpress
 
I do find it interesting that posting about these DAC's mostly brings on crickets.... Pesky little buggers they are. Sound quite nice played back through one :p
 
chirp chirp?:D

Well, this DAC is mostly old news, and more interest today is focused on DACs for hi-res streaming, which this DAC is not well suited. It sounds great for my uses, however, and the integrated headphone amp is a feature I wanted.

One thing I have been looking into a bit is the 24VDC PS. Since I was not sure a PS would be supplied with the DAC, while I was awaiting its arrival I was looking around for options. I saw dogwan’s thread on making a PS for an Aragon preamp, where 50 Green suggested a HAA24-0.6-A might fit the bill, and it turned out it did a very credible job: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...-24k-power-supply.876369/page-2#post-12898327

When the L1387 DAC arrived, I checked what it was drawing from the supplied 24V-2A brick while playing: it was only 25mA on the 120VAC primary, or 3W. That would correspond to a max of 125mA on the 24VDC output (if 100% efficient). The HAA24-0.6-A is a regulated linear PS capable of 600mA output (and it is pretty stiff: 0.05% load regulation); so the load from the DAC would only be 20% of the capacity of the HAA24-0.6-A.

I saw a New-Open Box one on eBay, still in the box and originally purchased from Digi-Key in 1998, for $25 shipped, so I bought it. It is a very nice PS. Nichicon 2200µF/63V main PS caps, and old-school 2N3055 output transistors (same as used on the venerable NAD 3020 and related early NAD PE series amps and receivers).
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I’ve wired up the primary side and checked it out (voltages good and no mechanical hum on power up), but I've not yet had the time to wire up the output and hook it up to the L1387 DAC to see if it makes a difference (grandkids here for a summer visit). I’m not expecting any significant improvement over the supplied PS brick because the DAC seems well designed (12V and 18V regulators plus 3 more shunt regulators for lower voltages) for use with its switching PS, but you never know until you listen…
 
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I look forward to your findings on this. I've not really found that high res brings anything to the table having already been down that path. I believe mastering benefits from high res, though my experience has been that playback does not.
 
Your experiences with high res are interesting. I don’t know much about these things, but I have an old Adcom GDA-700 in my main system that decodes HDCD discs. I have a handful or so of HDCD recordings, which I enjoy quite a bit. Even though the boost in resolution for HDCD (20-bit, I believe) is modest relative to more modern offerings, they sound great through the GDA-700 (more ‘presence’, or closer to that in-the-room feel). But they also sound pretty damn good on a regular player too. I’ve read that HDCD discs often sound very good even on non-HDCD equipment, which was attributed to better mastering, which would support your assessment.
 
Yes, experience tells me mastering is king so simply get the best sounding DAC you can afford. Features and bitrate are irrelevant for playback. I know this goes against current thinking so I may get some flack over it though it has been my experience.

I suspect the current high res focus has come about mostly through marketing of specifications and little to do with sound quality. Higher and higher specs drive sales.
 
I’ve wired up the primary side and checked it out (voltages good and no mechanical hum on power up), but I've not yet had the time to wire up the secondary side and hook it up to the L1387 DAC to see if it makes a difference (grandkids here for a summer visit). I’m not expecting any significant improvement over the supplied PS brick because the DAC seems well designed (12V and 18V regulators plus 3 more shunt regulators for lower voltages) for use with its switching PS, but you never know until you listen…

The improvement you get by substituting a linear supply for a switcher isn't influenced by the circuitry inside the DAC. Rather the switcher adds noise to the DAC's output via the output cables which then causes IMD in downstream components. So no matter the quality of the internal regulation of the DAC the linear supply will reduce noise in your system. As you hinted, 'listen and you'll see'.
 
Many thanks for this info, xdd. It is something that I did not realize.

I noticed that the power cable from the switching PS had a choke on it, just before the barrel connector, presumably to attenuate HF noise by whatever degree is possible with a choke. But as you indicate, its better to not have the PS noise to start with.
 
You are welcome. You're quite correct, that choke is an attempt to reduce the HF noise. Trouble is it only tends to work at the very high frequencies and doesn't address the 40k-100kHz band where most of the SMPSU noise resides.
 
If I may ask, do you know the distance that the HF noise field extends around the power cable before attenuating in the air?

If it is something like several cm or less, careful placement of that cable relative to the DAC outputs might be beneficial, or if using the headphone output (i.e., using the unit as a DAC and preamp) on the front, the noise could be minimized.

If the noise field is larger than several cm, obviously it would bathe the entire device.
 
I don't know for sure but my guess is its only mm, not cm. Its not the field around the cable which is causing the problem, rather its the current which isn't flowing in the complete loop between outward and return conductors. Put another way most current goes out and back on the same cable - its the current which returns by a different route which is the issue. The choke is an attempt to make it more difficult to travel back by an alternative route by raising the impedance.
 
Ah, now I am recalling discussion about these currents on antenna leads.

I suppose the normal shielding on cables such as RG-59 and R6 75Ω coax (I've mostly gone over to these for RCA interconnects) don't give immunity to this, as even if there are multiple shields, these typically join to the return conductor (innermost braid).

Thanks again for the tutorial. Points again to the benefits of eliminating noise at the source wherever possible, rather than trying to filter it out later.
 
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