The best phono preamp under $1000 (aka the Hagerman Bugle upgrade thread)

[oranda]

A bit of a bombastic title, but after owning and building multiple different phono preamps, I’d like to share what just might be the best phono preamp available for under $1000. Known to many of us, the Hagerman Bugle 3 is a well-designed phono preamp that features a split-passive RIAA filter and is a fantastic value at around $200. For those handy with a soldering iron, Jim Hagerman also offers the circuit board of the previous version (the Bugle 2) along with a parts list, schematic, and build instructions for a mere $40. The stock Bugle amp sounds very good, is quiet, and easily makes the short list of “best buy” components in its price category. However, performing the simple parts substitutions outlined in this post will produce a preamp that exceeds expectation in almost every way.

What are the specific improvements over the stock Bugle? Immediate improvements in resolution, transparency, and detail. High frequencies will sound more natural and coherent, while the overall presentation have an openness associated with discrete-device preamps. Vocals will have better presence and sound more organic, and low frequency information will be more obvious.

In order of importance, the parts to upgrade are as follows (as identified by their label on the Bugle 2 schematic.) Having a decent DMM or LCR meter to help verify and match the left and right values of each component as they are added will help keep the channels balanced and the overall performance close to published values.

1. Op-amps: the Bugle 2/3 recommends/comes with well-regarded LM4562 audio op-amps. However, after trying many different devices, I found that substituting TI’s excellent OPA2210 in the U2, U3, and U4 positions yields a level of performance that will make you question why op-amps were ever disregarded as high-end devices. While the ultra-low noise, super beta OPA2210 op-amps are only available in a surface-mount format, they can be installed after being mounted on SOIC-8 to 8-pin DIP adapters. I use Brown Dog adapters available on the Cimarron Technologies website. If ordered pre-mounted and with pins installed, they drop directly into the 8-pin sockets on the Bugle circuit board. A chip puller is highly recommended when removing op-amps.
2. Film capacitors:
   1. C5 capacitor: Replace the 10nF capacitor in the C5 slot with a silver mica capacitor of the same value. I am presently using 10nF CDE silver mica caps which mount easily due to their having a very similar lead spacing as the original Bugle2's C5 capacitor. However, any good quality silver mica will likely due (Charcroft caps would likely be excellent.)
   2. C4 and C6 film capacitors: There are several great options for the 220nF capacitors. Two easy recommendations are ones I am using: the Amtrans AMCG series and the economical Vishay MKT1822 capacitors. These both have a mellow yet detailed presentation, with the Amtrans being more nuanced and a direct fit into the C4 and C6 slots. I have also used Auricaps XO polypropylene film capacitors in the C6 position (the XO is a difficult fit in C4) as well as Kemet SMR-series polyphenylene sulfide film capacitors (in both C4 and C6) to good effect. All the listed options will be a noticeable sonic upgrade over the recommended Kemet PHE426 polypropylene capacitors.
3. Power supply: I am presently using a 24VDC 0.5A linear and regulated power supply (Jameco Part no. 174879) in place of the switch mode supply.

Some optional upgrades:

1. The Xicon 271-series 1/4W resistors specified in JH’s parts list are perfectly fine, but I really like the (not-so-expensive) Takman REY 1% metal film resistors and now use them whenever a resistor of the recommended value is available. I’ve found the most important resistors to upgrade (and keep closely matched) are the cartridge loading resistors R2L and R2R, but feedback resistors R4, R9, and R13 (both L and R) should also be considered. For values where the Takman REY resistors are not available, I also like Vishay/Dale CMF ≤1% metal film resistors.
2. I’ve recently experimented with using TI’s OPA1612 opamp (also available on the Cimmaron Technologies website) in the U4 position. This is the configuration I like for my vintage Empire and high-output Audio-Technica cartridges as it produces amazing bass with neutral mids. However, for my MC cartridges, I prefer the coherence and black background attained when using three OPA2210 op-amps. Using three OPA1612s did not sound as good to my ear as the other configurations described here, but YMMV.

I’m hoping this post entices fellow AK members to acquire and mod their own Bugle preamps. The circuit is brilliant, and the true potential of Jim’s design is attainable with a modest amount of work. If you happen to or already have discovered any significant upgrades on your Bugle upgrade journey, please share your findings in your reply.

A quick thanks to Audio Asylum member amandarae for introducing me to Hagerman Audio Labs (whom I have no affiliation with) and johnc124 for posting about TI’s super-beta BJT line of op-amps on diyAudio. I would also like to give a huge thank you to fellow karma member @desertrat748 who not only tested and provided exceptional feedback on various Bugle iterations, but also built his own modded Bulge 2 and provided an excellent leopardwood case that will be shown in a future post. Many thanks!!

 

[mr_petit]

Interesting.
I use a chinese bugle 2 clone (audiowind a-300) with a separate power supply (based upon a module with 7818/7918) and potted ringtransformer (talema style)
I also plan to change the opamps (I currently use LM833), probably do some tests with an OPA1656, and modify the 78xx/79xx for something less noise.
And maybe change out some capacitors and resistors.
But I also maybe plan to add some switching to easy change capacitive and resistive loading.

Current build:

Don't know about that $1000 though, I only spent about $150 on this build . I have no idea what someone could do with $1000

 

[cgallery]

Interesting thread. I recently purchased a Bugle 2 on eBay for $99, it should arrive today.

My standard phono preamp is a TC-750 on which I've removed the cartridge loading caps. I've used a bunch of other phono stages (MoFi StudioPhono, Parks Budgie, Realistic 42-2109, etc.) but the differences among them tend to be pretty subtle.

I've read a lot of good about the Bugle so look forward to giving it a listen.

 

[desertrat748]

I have tried using 3 OPA1612 for this build for mm and didn’t like the results. Also I chose the lowest gain for mm (I believe it’s listed at 36 dB) and use a SUT for MC.

If you are willing to try, the OPA2210 are a very good choice for noticeable improvement. I agree with Oranda’s views on 3 2210 for MC and using two 2210 with one 1612 in the u4 position for MM.

I will say this. In my build, the use of the one 1612 produces (read grabs and sends out of the ballpark) some serious bass from everything mm/mi I tried. You think your AT cart is a bit bright with no bass? Not so!

With the addition of the 1612 in the 3rd slot instead of a 2210, the bass response is immediately available. So much so that you most likely will want to adjust your bass down in some fashion.

I just had this happen with a purchase of some Tannoy c8 with 8” woofer. Bass was solid. So much so that I had to move them farther away from the wall. It’s a great feeling to know that your AT cart or favorite mm is really producing some great bass. It also does excellent everywhere else but may not have as much refinement as 3 2210s.

I even like it with MC but have a 3rd 2210 to swap out for the more refined presentation.

I said it before, I wish I had started with this preamp and these mods before purchasing anything else in my setup. It is the best starting point I could have ever hoped for so far in my audio quest.
Has opened up the door for old unused carts and eliminating my constant search for upgrades w speakers, new styli, new updated table or tonearm etc.

I just want to sit back and enjoy after digging through albums to have a listen at this level of enjoyment.

I put my build in a leopard wood case as it holds the unit in place with the weight. Plus it’s not hard on the eyes.

 

[cgallery]

BTW, is the DC jack wired center positive? I have a 24vdc linear regulated wall wart, the center is positive just want to make sure it is suitable.

 

[desertrat748]

BTW, is the DC jack wired center positive? I have a 24vdc linear regulated wall wart, the center is positive just want to make sure it is suitable.

Yes.

 

[mr_petit]

but the differences among them tend to be pretty subtle.

I also think differences between phonopre's can be very small.
However I picked the bugle 2 as favorite out of a blind test with a Lehmann Black cube SE 2006 and a ifi audio Zen phono, without knowing which phonopre's were in the test. I couldn't distinguis the Lehmann from the Ifi, but the bugle 2 had a distinct sound.

With lots of phonopre's I think that they pick up hum, hiss or buzz too easily, but that is of course highly dependant on setup and situation.

 

[desertrat748]

Interesting thread. I recently purchased a Bugle 2 on eBay for $99, it should arrive today.

My standard phono preamp is a TC-750 on which I've removed the cartridge loading caps. I've used a bunch of other phono stages (MoFi StudioPhono, Parks Budgie, Realistic 42-2109, etc.) but the differences among them tend to be pretty subtle.

I've read a lot of good about the Bugle so look forward to giving it a listen.

I totally agree with the difference between prefabricated preamps (especially entry level priced ) being subtle. In fact, chasing around upgrades at all levels for phono seems to have subtle differences at best.

I promise you that this build is anything but subtle, but really opened up with the capacitors listed, and the op amps. Strongly suggest getting 3 2210s and the one 1612 for comparison. The silver mica in c5 are a must. Night and day.

 

[desertrat748]

Interesting.
I use a chinese bugle 2 clone (audiowind a-300) with a separate power supply (based upon a module with 7818/7918) and potted ringtransformer (talema style)
I also plan to change the opamps (I currently use LM833), probably do some tests with an OPA1656, and modify the 78xx/79xx for something less noise.
And maybe change out some capacitors and resistors.
But I also maybe plan to add some switching to easy change capacitive and resistive loading.

Current build:

Don't know about that $1000 though, I only spent about $150 on this build . I have no idea what someone could do with $1000

Is that a direct copy of the bugle2 board? Very nice build! I’m liking the power supply.

I’m spending right about $250 on my build but the higher end caps with trial and error added up. Probably could knock off $50 or so knowing what I know now.

How about em radio interference with the power supply? Noise/hum?

 

[mr_petit]

Is that a direct copy of the bugle2 board?

Yes I believe so.

Minus possible voltage regulators or stabilizers I believe. So more a direct copy of the bugle2 scematic.

regarding the power supply, it's based upon 78xx/79xx which is (just like the lm3xx I recon) not the most noise free solution I believe, but I have these things lying around which are supposed to be much more low noise (direct replacement for 78xx/79xx).
But if this makes a real difference...: I still have to think of a rig that can measure noise on the output of the phonopre. I obviously don't have a $$ AP audio analyzer, but maybe something can be done with REW or similar and a good 24bit sound card (I have a emu0404 somewhere here..)

 

[desertrat748]

Three pictures of mine with the Vishay caps at C-4 C-5 and C6.

The C-5 are bent over as I tested things out for height in the Leopard Wood housing I was building. I used some extensions on the legs so I could swap them out easily.

My dexterity and God-given gorilla sized hands makes it difficult for me to solder in tight spaces or solder fine detail. Heads are use some resistor legs as extensions in the C5 position. They were cut down and placed as close as possible after the mods were all worked out. I ended up replacing the C5 Vishay with the Silver Mica that Oranda suggested in his opening post. They are not shown in any of these early builds.

As you can see, there is one photo of a different board build with the yellow boutique caps in C6 (X0s I believe).

They sounded very good and I never splurged for those in my build. You can also notice how that build is actually quite beautiful, done with somebody who has surgeon hands, unlike this fellow who seems to drag his knuckles as he walks.

I have an added bypass cap (Vishay 10 pF I believe but will have to look up) in the c4 position. I hear some added detail to hf with this addition. I still use it. We tried out similar additions in the c5 and c6 but the additional detail gained took away from the richness of the bass and overall response.

I can’t emphasize how much change can be introduced with just 10 pF. It was a truly mind boggling difference when introduced. Something I would not have believed until I actually tried it myself.

 

[cgallery]

Is that a direct copy of the bugle2 board? Very nice build! I’m liking the power supply.

I’m spending right about $250 on my build but the higher end caps with trial and error added up. Probably could knock off $50 or so knowing what I know now.

How about em radio interference with the power supply? Noise/hum?

The Bugle 2 photos show some sort of regulation at the DC input with a transistor, which I don't see in the copy. Maybe the copy is of the first generation Bugle?

 

[cgallery]

Another Q: The enclosure for the Bugle, is that a standard model available somewhere like Digikey?

 

[mr_petit]

Maybe the copy is of the first generation Bugle?

could be 1st gen too indeed.
I don't really know the difference between gen1 and gen2. This chinese clone has no voltage input regulation, so it's ment to work with a good stabilized power supply.

 

[cgallery]

could be 1st gen too indeed.
I don't really know the difference between gen1 and gen2. This chinese clone has no voltage input regulation, so it's ment to work with a good stabilized power supply.

The TC-750 I use has a CRC following the DC jack, which works very well with a decent external power supply.

On the unit you've constructed, what voltage does the power supply output? Op amps want a "split rail" power, no? I've read the inexpensive Pyle can be fed with 24vdc and somehow this will provide +12 and -12 to the op amp but I'm unclear on how that works.

 

[mr_petit]

On the unit you've constructed, what voltage does the power supply output?

+/-15VDC
The transformer is also dual output (so with a center tab) so no rail splitter circuit.

 

[kirk57]

What other sub-$1000 phono stages have you compared this with?

 

[desertrat748]

Another Q: The enclosure for the Bugle, is that a standard model available somewhere like Digikey?

Yes. I know it’s on the bugle2 parts list when ordering a bugle2 board. It’s very lightweight plastic and I don’t like the end covers. I think it weighs in at a negative 9 grams in the plastic because it moves all over the place once you connect your cables. The heavier cables will move the lightweight housing all over the place and require zip ties to keep it in place.

I really didn’t like the lightweight and the slip in end caps. You have to drill them out yourself and to do semi-decent need a drill press.

You won’t get the added +3dB of pure beauty that a leopard wood case brings. It’s hard to measure digitally but it definitely can be measured by the smile on your face.

More importantly is the smile on your face when you build one of these. It truly adds a new level to either your mm or mc game.

A big thank you to Oranda for doing all of the trials and sharing your work!

 

[45rpmspinner]

Interesting.
Wish the boards weren't so small though.
My hands shake too much these days to work on them.

I've got both a bugle 2 and a 3 that started making horrific noise.
Nothing obviously wrong that I can see.
Modding them would be a fun project.

 

[desertrat748]

Interesting.
Wish the boards weren't so small though.
My hands shake too much these days to work on them.

I've got both a bugle 2 and a 3 that started making horrific noise.
Nothing obviously wrong that I can see.
Modding them would be a fun project.

I totally agree and understand as it was the same for me. Noise? Sounds like a grounding issue. Maybe at the rca input or output ground legs, or somewhere else. Go for the fix, the op amps, and the c5, c4, c6 caps with the c5 using the silver mica Oranda listed.

Nothing to lose if they are making noise and unable to use. I definitely couldn’t be a surgeon!