Recent content by Techforce

I just tried that, but its still in the config as the first diagram and makes no difference....will try and rewire it to my new diagram, only the bottom terminal of the woofer will go to the wiper of the pot and not the end terminal. I am figuring that way the horns will be dependent on how much...

I redrew the schematic based on my thinking on how it should be as the mid was never gonna work with only one connection to it. Now the mid should work as its right on the main terminals thru the 20 ohm control...and that control now feeds the piezos so depending on how much the mid sees, the...

Heres a schematic I hand drew, plus a photo of the potentiometers. The blue wires are the ends of the tweeters, the top pot is the mid control and the yellow and white wires from it go to the mid. I didnt drw in the 4 ohm resistors I tacked on in parallel with the tweeters, but either way it...

I tacked in (2) 2.2 ohm 0.5W resistors in series and put them accross the piezo terminals thinking that would at least get sound to the crossover / potentiometer setup with the mid running off it, but the only one with sound coming out is the driver still.

The tweeters appear to be in series on the outside connections with the crossover / mid in between them. I will try to draw a schematic. My thought is that since the signal is places on the end terminals of the horns, with the rest of the stuff in between, there is no way for it to reach the...

Cap checks good at 5.56 uF, I shot the potentiometers with contact clean anyhow and they read good. The resistor in line with the mid is 4.7 ohms, checks good. Looks like the (2) outer black wires to each side of the piezo head directly to the spkr terminal. If Indeed they are capacitive maybe...

Here is another pic with the controls out. They are 20 ohm pots. Cap is 4.7 uF / 70V. It seems like it may be open, will have to check.

My Fluke DMM has a capacitance mode and both horns measure 0.233 uF so I guess they are ok.

Still unable to find the Fisher model, so I set about getting new mid's, they are Dayton aluminum, but the one I installed it into they are not playing. I took the horns out and they measure open, so will need to replace them too with something. Any ideas? I removed the response chart label...

Fisher DS-176 seems pretty close, only no controls or response chart https://media.sandhills.com/img.axd?id=4213773815&wid=&p=&ext=&w=0&h=0&t=&lp=&c=True&wt=False&sz=Max&rt=0&checksum=aRzAJqFJvCNp2ai%2bVT%2fmNhdNbS%2fAgmhi

Interesting, hard to ID the model as theres no ID tag execpt that response chart near the 2 adjustable controls. I would imagine not many Fisher designs had those controls, and it would make ID simpler. So far the closest I have seen are these, but no controls or response chart...

Cannot locate a model number on these - Picked em up on the curb yrs ago, no grills on them and the pressboard cabinet may have had water damage as some parts are broken and breaking off. Maybe I can use plastic wood to square that off, then paint them as a project sometime, but right off it...

Replaced all the belts on this and it was ok except the audio output was low. Turns out the lever on the record deck that bumps the r-p switch for record mode was putting a little pressure on the switch so I corrected that but the leaf switch that closes when you record got bent so I rebent it...

SK3004, SK3007A seem to cross....2SA176, 2SA188, 2SA202, 2SA218, 2SA222, 2SA274, 2SA275, 2SA307, 2SA311, 2SA312, 2SA313, 2SA341, 2SB72, 2SB73, 2SB77, 2SB110, 2SB134, 2SB154, 2SB155, 2SB175, 2SB183, 2SB187, 2SB324, 2SB385, 2SB405, ECG158, NTE158 or GE-53

So I got thru the FW update. The Blue Network light lights up when plugged in, stereo seems to power up ok. After maybe 40 mins the blue net light goes out, I have no networks connected so is that normal in that its I guess looking for a net, finds none and stops looking?