Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

passaloutre said:
Thank you so much @EarlK

Would you change anything there for a 93db woofer?

Also what’s the deal with the disconnected 100 ohm resistor
Click to expand...

There's no need to change anything in HiPass circuit ( just because it was originally meant for greater than 95db woofers.
IOW, it still works well with lower db woofers , one just needs to use the included variable LPad.

Only add the 100 ohm resistor if you find the 1K to 2.5K area is a bit too strong.
- It's an option ( a bit of a contingency if you will ) due to the fact that I'm not using "real woofer files", measured in the users "real boxes".
- Relying on manufacturers files ( or anyone else's that isn't the "end-user" ) is really just a recipe for self-deception and embarrassment IME.

Conversely ( to the 100R resistor being added ) one could also vary R1 ( anywhere from short-circuit/// just wire up to 8R ) .
This will vary the "knee of the lowpass">> which also does a nice job of varying the 1K to 2.5K region.

Of course then, one needs a little bit of measuring capability to "zone-it-in".

:)
 
eWave Standard with standard over 95db crossover + GRS 12PT-8 Woofer.png

Green line is showing the crossover response region when the horn driver is wired with positive polarity.

The "grey" line shows the response of that area using the standard "flipped-polarity" , as seen in JackGiffs schematic.

HiSens XO Schematic B.jpg

:)
 
passaloutre said:
View attachment 3781741

Oops, this is the one I bought the parts for…looks like the same topology with different values
Click to expand...

Yep! An oops moment. ;)

Solution?? Simply use the DC300-8 when its available again.

Make sure to follow Zilch's direction to mount the woofer to the "backside" of the baffle board ( this is to maintain the smaller//shorter Acoustic Offset that he designed this crossover for >> which was something like 2.6" AFAICR ).

:)
 
Thanks @EarlK

I need to use the GRS woofer for the power handling and excursion capability, so I think I’ll be ordering more parts and using your crossover. How would you rate the resistors (particularly on the woofer) if this may someday be used at 200w?
 
@passaloutre

What's your possible dual use scenario??

Home HiFi>> 2-chnl first, then HT +/or SR work ??

In almost every possible usage scenario, one is better off adding some subs and then going with a 95db eff. woofer

I'll post the power dissipation curves in another post, later today .
 
90% of the time they’ll be used for blasting Creedence and The Grateful Dead in my workshop where I build guitar amps and furniture for my house. For this I want reasonable extension under 50Hz range with no subwoofer.

10% of the time they’ll be used as vocal monitors in my rehearsal space (which is also the amp workshop, and even sometimes a pottery studio, but I digress). They don’t have to be super efficient as I have plenty of wattage to throw at them with an old Peavey CS800. I’m currently using a Fender bass guitar cabinet and a garage sale Peavey wedge for this purpose.

I know there are compromises, and they’re not perfect for either use. I’ve obviously considered getting separate speakers for each use, but I’ve committed to just building something that would be bulletproof and good enough for either purpose. As shop speakers they’ll probably never see more than 10-20W, but as PA speakers they may face the full brunt of the Peavey’s 250W someday.

I’m not buying subs and more amps. I have plywood and wattage. I’m just trying to build some speakers.
 
Last edited:
55L net. The parts express recommended vented cab is 60L/40Hz, but I spent a lot of time in WinISD this week balancing box size, port tuning, and excursion, and the 55L/45hz tuning gets me an F3 in the high 40s (good enough without a sub for the classic rock I listen to), without exceeding any excursion limits up to 250w.

Again I’m not planning to play music at 250w any time soon, but if I’m going to have an amp capable of 250w, I damn well want to have a speaker capable of 250w.
 
Last edited:
@passaloutre

Here's a visual showing resistor dissipation for 200 watts of input to the speakers .

My solutions to the needed resistor sizing are noted within the pics.

I re-arranged the schematic so as to move the variable LPad closer to the amp-side so that a single 100 Watt Lpad can be purchased ( instead of "up rating" to 100 watts the 2 resistors typically found in that location of the standard eWave layout ).

eWave Standard with LPad modded 95db crossover + GRS 12PT-8 Woofer_Watts Dissipated.png

The re-arranged HiPass gives the following response and output ( with 200 watts input ) ;

eWave Standard with LPad modded 95db crossover + GRS 12PT-8 Woofer_ 200W output.png

:)
 
Last edited:
While that is correct for 200W, with music with a reasonable crest factor, 1/4 of the full continuous power rating should be fine.
Simplest is to use 20-25W everywhere, but if you plan to run it with the amp hard clipping then go with the larger wattage - also save your ears.

Elevate the resistors since their job is to get hot - very hot at rated power.

Note that the woofer power rating is tested by AES-426B that is mentioned here:
Interesting that GRS states their power rating as AES-426B, but everything that I find is EIA-RS-426B, typo?

What is EIA RS-426B standard.

Hi.. I have a great doubt about power handling of the speaker. Some brands rate under IEC pink noise test. Some brands rate under EIA RS 426B. What is difference between both.:confused:
www.diyaudio.com www.diyaudio.com

Also: https://www.doctorproaudio.com/content.php?2260-loudpeaker-power-handling

The AES paper on this power testing method is here and can be printed:

Test Signals Development for EIA-426-B Loudspeaker Power Rating

Discover how to develop test signals that enhance accuracy and consistency for the EIA-426-B Loudspeaker Power Rating.
dbkeele.com dbkeele.com
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much for all the help guys! I don’t plan to buy any advanced measurement gear, but is there a phone app (and recommended noise track) that would get me close enough to trim the L pad?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom