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What would CAR EXPERTS say about this AI Advice for my YUKON?

DesertRatt

All Bark, No Bite!
A little experiment here. I asked MS CoPilot if I could put bigger rotors and clamps on my YUKON because of towing requirements.

I think the answer was really good quality info on all counts. BUT, I am not a car expert by any means. I don't think there were any glaring errors, in the AI response, and I now have ONE avenue of improvement to pursue - better, high friction pads, which I did not know about.

Here's a link to the AI response. Give it a grade!

Go down a few posts to where I posted the whole CONVO. Cheers!
 
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I've sometimes taken screen shots for things like that. That leaves you with a picture that can be posted as needed.

no idea about brake upgrades on the truck, but if you don't have trailer brakes of any sort now, from experience i'll say they help quite a bit if tuned correctly. Trick is finding the right adjustment so they don't try and stop the truck from the trailer, or do so little that they may as well not be there.
 
I'll try it this way......

My Question
"I have a 2019 GMC DENALI 4X4. I tow a 23 foot airstream. On steep grades - like 6% - low gears will not hold the speed, so I have to apply braking on car and trailer. I am wondering, if I can put LARGER rotors and clamps on my Yukon to improve safety margin?"

CO-PILOT response

Mark, here’s the straight, mechanic‑level truth about your 2019 GMC Yukon Denali 4×4 towing a 23‑ft Airstream on 6% grades:

Not because it’s physically impossible — but because GM’s brake system, ABS, traction control, stability control, and tow‑haul logic are all calibrated to the factory rotor diameter and hydraulic pressures.

If you change rotor size or caliper piston area:

  • ABS calibration becomes incorrect
  • Brake bias (front/rear) becomes unsafe
  • Stability control can misbehave
  • Tow‑haul grade braking becomes unpredictable
  • The truck may pull left/right under hard braking
  • You void brake‑system warranty and liability
This is why no reputable manufacturer makes a “big brake kit” for full‑size GM SUVs. The brake system is integrated with the vehicle’s computer.

So the short answer is:No, you can’t upgrade the rotors/calipers on a Yukon in a meaningful or safe way.

But that doesn’t mean you’re stuck.


⭐ Why your Yukon won’t hold speed on 6% grades​

Your truck should hold speed better than you’re seeing. The issue is not the brakes — it’s the gear ratios and engine braking characteristics of the 6.2L V8 + 10‑speed transmission.

The 6.2L V8 has:​

  • Very low compression braking
  • A free‑revving performance cam
  • A tall torque converter stall
  • A 10‑speed transmission that prefers fuel economy unless forced
This means:It simply doesn’t engine‑brake like a diesel or a smaller-displacement truck.

Even in low gear, it won’t hold back a 23‑ft Airstream on a long 6% descent.

This is normal for your drivetrain.


⭐ What​

1️⃣

Tow/Haul changes shift logic and increases engine braking.If you’re not using it, the truck will NOT hold speed.

2️⃣

On steep grades, select L and then manually choose 3rd or 2nd.The 10‑speed won’t automatically pick the right gear unless you force it.

3️⃣

Your Airstream’s brakes should be doing 40–60% of the work on descents.

If your controller is set too low, your Yukon is doing too much braking.

4️⃣

You can safely upgrade pads without affecting ABS:

  • PowerStop Z36
  • Hawk LTS
  • EBC YellowStuff
These improve fade resistance and bite without changing rotor/caliper geometry.

5️⃣

They don’t increase braking power, but they improve heat shedding.

6️⃣

Diesel trucks have them.Gas trucks do not.This is why diesels hold speed effortlessly and gas trucks don’t.


⭐ The REAL fix:​

Here’s how pros descend 6% grades with gas trucks towing:

✔ Start slow (45–50 mph)​

Don’t enter the grade at 65–70.

✔ Tow/Haul ON​

Mandatory.

✔ Select 2nd or 3rd manually​

Don’t let the 10‑speed choose.

✔ Use “stab braking”​

Brake firmly for 2–3 seconds to drop speed 10 mph,then release and let engine braking hold as long as possible.

✔ Trailer brake controller set correctly​

Your Airstream should be doing its share.

This technique prevents brake overheating and keeps everything under control.


⭐ Bottom line for YOU​

  • No, you cannot install larger rotors or calipers — unsafe and unsupported.
  • Yes, you can improve braking with better pads and technique.
  • Yes, your Yukon can descend safely — but it requires proper gear selection and trailer brake tuning.
  • Your truck’s behavior is normal for a 6.2L gas V8 towing a 23‑ft trailer.

If you want, I can tell you:

  • The exact pad brand that works best for your Yukon
  • The correct controller setting for a 23‑ft Airstream
  • The ideal gear selection for 6% grades
  • Whether your Airstream brakes are likely underperforming
Just tell me how your trailer brake controller is currently set.
-----------------END------------------------------------------------
 
I've sometimes taken screen shots for things like that. That leaves you with a picture that can be posted as needed.

no idea about brake upgrades on the truck, but if you don't have trailer brakes of any sort now, from experience i'll say they help quite a bit if tuned correctly. Trick is finding the right adjustment so they don't try and stop the truck from the trailer, or do so little that they may as well not be there.
I posted it all above.....THANKS
 
My brother "changed" the brakes on his '98 GMC 4 X 4. It won't hardly stop itself now.

I also agree with proper trailer brake adjusting. Makes all the difference.

Right. I have been towing this rig quite a while and I think the trailer brakes are carefully dialed in. The GM trailer brake option is quite nice and easy to set, aadjust and get right. During the last trip (last week) we did those 5 mile 6% grades, and I can't say anything went wrong - but I was in the mood to pay attention to exactly how the rig was working, and I thought I should be able to find a gear that would hold the speed. I always worry about the need for lots of braking - it's worrisome. On 5% grades, I can hold speed - no brakes- usually 4th gear.

According to the shop that last checked my Yukon brake pads, he said I was "50% remaining." Which would imply I have about 2 years left. I'm going to look into the cost of the pads recommended and maybe I will change them out early.
 
The late model (2021 and up)Tahoe PPV Brembo mono blocks will work but you'll need 20 inch wheels to clear them. I looked at doing it on the older Tahoes in the police fleet and it is listed on the GM website as an upgrade but it's not exactly inexpensive when you factor in the cost of calipers,pads, lines, rotors ,wheels and tires.
All of that stuff about brake bias, stability control et al is AI bullshit. I've been running Porsche Macan Brembo 4 piston monoblock calipers on my Audi S5 that replaced the single piston sliding pin calipers for 6 years, and they are a huge improvement in stopping power with no I'll effects.
A good cost effective alternative is the GM performance slotted rotors and heavy duty pads. I went that route after a couple of officers on the tactical unit literally set their brakes on fire because one of our other facilities was using NAPA severe duty fleet parts. The AC Delco parts held up very well.
I don't claim to know everything but I have a decent amount of practical experience.
 
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The late model (2021 and up)Tahoe PPV Brembo mono blocks will work but you'll need 20 inch wheels to clear them. I looked at doing it on the older Tahoes in the police fleet and it is listed on the GM website as an upgrade but it's not exactly inexpensive when you factor in the cost of calipers,pads, lines, rotors ,wheels and tires.
All of that stuff about brake bias, stability control et al is AI bullshit. I've been running Porsche Macan Brembo 4 piston monoblock calipers on my Audi S5 that replaced the single piston sliding pin calipers for 6 years, and they are a huge improvement in stopping power with no I'll effects.
A good cost effective alternative is the GM performance slotted rotors and heavy duty pads. I went that route after a couple of officers on the tactical unit literally set their brakes on fire because one of our other facilities was using NAPA severe duty fleet parts. The AC Delco parts held up very well.
I don't claim to know everything but I have a decent amount of practical experience.
Well, that's interesting! My '19 Yukon has 22" wheels. That's why I wondered if bigger rotors were feasible.
I definitely will look into that idea. Thanks!
 
A 6 percent gradient is equal to a 1 in 16.67 slope. i dont rate that as steep . if you are getting brake fade select a lower gear and dont touch the brakes as often . more friction causes more heat so may well cause more fade with boiling fluid . try a 1950.s 7 ton vehicle on a 1 in 6 gradient for a good mile or so on asbestos linings
.
 
A 6 percent gradient is equal to a 1 in 16.67 slope. i dont rate that as steep . if you are getting brake fade select a lower gear and dont touch the brakes as often . more friction causes more heat so may well cause more fade with boiling fluid . try a 1950.s 7 ton vehicle on a 1 in 6 gradient for a good mile or so on asbestos linings
.
Hi--
I wasn't getting any brake fade. I got down to 3rd gear, RPMs were about 4800, and speed was rising to 62. It's A very curvy road with all kinds of traffic,. I like to keep a steady distance from cars/trucks ahead. When speed got to 62, I applied brakes down to 55. IN ABOUT 20 seconds I was back to 63. I didn't want to go down on 2nd gear because my speed would be limited to about 38, and guys would be running up my tail and then swerving around to get in the other lane.

I just thought that maybe after 5 miles my brakes might get too hot. Nothing bad happened, it just gave me the idea that maybe it could be improved safety margin with bigger brakes.

Thanks.

PS. In all our TT towing over the Western states 7% was the steepest grade and lots of 6%. I've gone down the. Monument valley grade at 8 or 9%, bit not with a travel trailer.
 
I'll tell you the same thing I tell my clients when they come into my shop and tell me AI told them something.

" You need to speak to an expert directly about it because AI is just pulling a bunch of information from the internet and there is lots of misinformation out there."
 
I would not bother trying to put different brakes on your truck because lots of other parts may need to be swapped out to make them work properly (maybe even larger wheels). I put the giant "Police package" brakes on my 2016 Charger - calipers, rotors, brake lines, splash shields, etc, but I also had to change the master cylinder and power booster to get them to work properly. The AI is full of BS when talking about the ABS - it doesn't know what size rotors you have on the car, all it senses is wheel lock up and when it does it releases some of the hydraulic pressure to keep the wheel turning instead of skidding.

I would avoid the "Power Stop" pads (their rotors are very good though) as they don't work when they are cold: I had them on a 2013 Charger and almost rear ended a few cars first thing in the morning as the pads had zero bite when cold. They also left build up on my rotors that made the brakes grab in spots (feels like a warped rotor).

Try Raybestos EHT (enhanced hybrid technology) which are the same formulation as Hawk HPS pads. Performance Friction carbon metallic pads are even better if they make ones that fit your truck.
 
When you're going downhill on steep grades, just increase the gain on your brake controller. Also. make sure your trailer brakes are adjusted properly.
 
Performance Friction carbon metallic pads are even better if they make ones that fit your truck.
I've run these before, can confirm they work well. My Continental has a set, the Towncar previously had a set.

I've also done brake system upgrades and it does tend to work best as a complete system. Since I'm not an engineer I've just lifted it whole from vehicles. The 86 Towncar has a complete brake system from a 98-02 model, booster, master cylinder, entire front suspension to accommodate the later brakes, and rear disc brakes. Makes a massive difference in stopping ability for sure. At one point I had the later brakes but earlier hydraulics and it wasn't as good. Its the valving mostly, MC is the same bore but the prop valve is very different.
 
I think that would be a question I would ask on a Yukon forum, not AI.
Asking AI, is just part of my ongoing inquiry into "How useful of a tool can AI be for me?" Since I'm not a car mechanic, I wanted to see what mechanics thought of the answer. Thanks to all!

I'm not making life changing or risky decisions based on AI.:thumbsup:
 
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