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Help me decide which tweeter replacement

Kegger said:
Tullman that does sound like a darn good price and a good deal that they designed and
built xover's based on your new drivers and cabinet construction, very cool indead!

I would love to see some pics and excactly what they gave you! You could start a new
thread if you felt like it, I for one would be very very interested.
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Not much to look at. I am pretty sure we used SEAS drivers because the fit in the holes. The good deal was because I had cabinets. The drivers aren't that expensive. The crossovers were cheap too. I was shocked how little this cost for the amount of sound I was getting.

Madisound told me to do the complete change over, because they could match up the drivers and crossovers. Originally, I wanted to buy some expensive/exotic drivers that would have cost much more than the entire speaker/crossover package.
 
TrexT said:
Mark, let me know when you do your crossover layout and which tweeter are you going with, OK?
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I'll definitely be using the Dayton tweeters, since I already have them on hand. I'm thinking I'll leave the existing x/o alone and just add the new circuit for the tweeter (bypassing the old one). This way I can go back to the original design. I'm off to PE to buy some stuff............ :D - Mark
 
Well, based on Gordon's recommendation for a 2100hz cut-off for the tweeter, this is what I've done:

Info I got from PE's website suggests an impedance of 7.4 ohms at the x/o point so after pluggin these values into an on-line x/o calculator which will calculate L-R, Butterworth, and Bessel alignments (what, really, is the difference here?), I went with the Butterworth alignment simply because this one results in the least expensive components :D . The suggested component values are .79mH for the coil and 7.24uF for the cap. I wound up ordering a .8mH coil and a 6.8uF cap since these were the closest values I was willing to pay for. I figure I can add a second cap to get closer, if need be. Now I'm just waiting for the UPS man to deliver. - Mark
 
Mark you went air-core for the inductor or did you get another iron-core? Air core will be considerably larger but you can always modify. Hope it's all together soon. Take some pics.
 
Mark,

I am very interested in your results and opinion of the conclusion. I am going to do the same thing very soon. Let me know if you can get the Dayton tweets in there without modifying the cab hole. As you know my Advents are VERY nice so I do not want to butcher them as you suggested I do not. I do however want / need to replace the tweeters and I suck at crossovers so any/all help I get is appreciated.

Thanks.
 
You have to block in two corners kfa888. Easy to do with liquid nails and a nice jig saw. I already did the fitting in my head.
 
MarkAnderson said:
L-R, Butterworth, and Bessel alignments (what, really, is the difference here?),
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the difference here is the resulting frequency response at the crossover point. The Linkwitz-Riley alignment yeilds the flattest response at the XO point, while the Bessel has a summed response of +1dB and the Butterworth has a summed response of +3dB. This is all assuming we're talking about a 2nd order xo here. The values change for a 3rd and 4th order, but still not the L-R. That remains flat....

As for the bipole/dipole thing, I was just wondering if one of the tweeters was wired out of phase with the other (dipole) or if it was wired the same (bipole)?
 
TrexT said:
Mark, what about resistors?
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I assume you mean for tweeter padding. Since I don't know the sensitivity of the woofer, we'll just have to play that by ear. I expect that some padding will be in order, though. I have some variable L-pads on hand that I can use to help determine where we need to go with this. - Mark
 
scolba said:
the difference here is the resulting frequency response at the crossover point. The Linkwitz-Riley alignment yeilds the flattest response at the XO point, while the Bessel has a summed response of +1dB and the Butterworth has a summed response of +3dB. This is all assuming we're talking about a 2nd order xo here. The values change for a 3rd and 4th order, but still not the L-R. That remains flat....
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Ahah!! I remember that know. Thanks for that little kick in the head. :D

scolba said:
As for the bipole/dipole thing, I was just wondering if one of the tweeters was wired out of phase with the other (dipole) or if it was wired the same (bipole)?
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Oh, OK. They are wired in phase with each other IIRC, but could be wired out of phase with the woofer. I'll have to look at the crossover again. - Mark
 
It would appear that the woofer and both tweeters are all wired "in-phase". This seems odd for a second-order crossover. Hey Scott, wanna try a little experiment :naughty: ? I'd be curious to know what happens when you reverse the polarity on the tweeters. - Mark
 
sure...it will prolly cancel out some of the high end, but its worth a try....I'll do mine up tomorrow and let ya know! :)
 
er wait...do you mean wire one out of phase from the other, or the woofer out of phase with the tweets??
 
scolba said:
er wait...do you mean wire one out of phase from the other, or the woofer out of phase with the tweets??
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I meant swap the leads on both tweeters so they are wired opposite the woofer. This is commonly done with second order x/o's, isn't it? - Mark
 
TrexT - I just got the x/o components from PE for the tweeter upgrade. I'll be dickin' around with this over the weekend so stay tuned. - Mark
 
MarkAnderson said:
I meant swap the leads on both tweeters so they are wired opposite the woofer. This is commonly done with second order x/o's, isn't it? - Mark
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i was always under the impression that the resulting phase of a 2nd order effected both the high frequency and low frequency drivers, so wiring each speaker backwards would bring them back to match the phase of the original signal....im still learning too, so this could deffinately be wrong! :D
 
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