• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Replacement power supply capacitor wiring for 140 amp?

BmWr75

Top octave? pfffffftttttt
Subscriber
Hey Guys,

I bought new power supply caps for this Marantz 140 amp. The old cap is a 13000 x 2 55V in one can. The new caps are individual 13000 63V caps.

See first picture. On the old cap, the white wire bundle goes to the "-", the red wire bundle to the "A" and the black wire bundle to the "B" which is also connect to the chassis via the silver strap.

See second picture. Thought I knew how to wire up the new caps until I saw the diagram on the old cap.

See third picture. The new caps each of course have a positive and negative terminal.

Before I saw the old cap diagram, I was thinking all I needed to do is tie the two negative terminals together with the black wires and the strap. Then tie the white wire bundle to one positive terminal on one cap and the red wire bundle to one positive terminal on the other cap.

Please check my logic and let me know if this is wrong.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
On the new caps, tie one (+) to one (-), then that combination goes to ground/black wires (becomes B terminal). The red stuff hooks up to remaining (+) of one cap (becomes A terminal) then the white stuff to the remaining (-) of the other cap (becomes - terminal).
 
Thanks much!! So, the caps are wired in series. I know when caps are wired in parallel, the capacitance of each sums. When in series, what happens to the capacitance overall?
 
While they seem to be wired in series, they're not functioning that way in the circuit. With the power supply + and - rails referenced to the common center of the two cap string, each rail does get the full 13,000uF. 13,000uF for the + rail and 13,000uF for the - rail.
 
Well, it is not as pretty a the stock PS cap maybe, but it works.

I cut a circular piece of masonite a little larger in diameter than the top of the stock cap clamp. Then hot glued the masonite disc to the top of the clamp and reinstalled it in the chassis.

Zip tied the two caps together and then hot glued them where they touched in the middle. Put a piece of double stick tape on the bottom of the caps and attached them to the masonite disc.

I attached the wires to the 4 cap terminals such that they hold down the caps in place in case any of the new support system comes loose. Had to use nuts as spacers on the bolts because the bolts I had on hand were just a tad too long.

Nothing smoked or exploded when I powered the old gal up, so we are good to go.

attachment.php
 
Last edited:
Nice job. :)

Where did you get the caps and how much were they please? I think I should redo my 140 soon.
 
Back
Top Bottom