When I first saw the title of this thread, I thought it might be a discussion of whether this would be a good time to collect actual CDs, as the 90s was a good time to collect LPs. That is, when they are seen as "old" and not much wanted, but before they become "vintage collectibles" and go up in price. I much prefer seeing the old ads in the OP --they were interesting!
CDs were introduced with a lot of advertising "hype", some of which turned out to be exaggerated. It's nice to see that at least now, 30 years later, some of the higher-resolution digital recordings are at least getting closer to what we were promised, all those years ago. I don't think it will ultimately be the discs that deliver on the promise, though: it will be ultra-high-resolution files on computer/hard-disc-based servers. Most of them will be transferred electronically (downloaded/uploaded), to save on the cost of the physical item, although they may be available in disc form, too, at a higher cost.
I wonder sometimes, too, how much and in what ways vinyl record technology would have advanced by now, if digital music hadn't come along.
Regarding ROT:
The most famous kind of rot was not on CDs, but on LaserDiscs. They're made from a "sandwich" of 2 disks, with a ring of glue around the outer edge to seal them together. For a while, some plants were using a glue for that outer ring, which contained a solvent that, over time, affected the layer in the middle which held the signal. As that layer rotted, the signal (picture and sound) deteriorated, and became unplayable. It was limited to a certain number of disks from only certain plants, and while you may encounter a laser-rot LD from time to time, they are rare today, probably because most of the discs so affected were replaced or thrown away years ago.
It IS possible to give a perfectly good LD a case of laser rot, by using the wrong kind of chemical cleaner around the outer edge of the disc, where the glue is. (Please don't ask me how I know that! :sigh: Fortunately, I learned it before cleaning any rare or valuable LDs.) It's best when cleaning LDs, NOT to work on cleaning the very outer edge, at all. To do so is to endanger the disc.
CDs, being made from "plastic" materials, CAN suffer from rot due to chemical influences, but usually such high standards of quality control were implemented (they are, after all, made in clean rooms on expensive equipment) that it's rare on a commercial CD. They are not made like LDs, and don't have the "edge glue" vulnerability.
The kind you burn yourself on a computer drive, however, are an entirely different story. They tend not to last.
One difference exists between a rotted LD and a rotted CD: once a CD (or any other digital disc like a VCD, DVD or Blu-ray disc) starts to rot, it usually becomes completely un-playable. In most cases, you cannot watch ANY of the disc, even if only a small area of it is affected. LDs, being analog, are different. Usually, you can skip over the affected portions of the disc, and watch the unaffected portions. You may even be able to "watch" a distorted picture that is partially "rotted".
Dirty and lightly scratched-up disks can usually be recovered by washing them well, applying automotive wax and letting it sit for a while, then wiping it smooth, always going from the center outwards. The wax fills in the small scratches to re-create a smooth surface, and its index of refraction and transparency is close enough to the CD material that the laser can read right through it.
If the disk is more deeply scratched, it can be buffed smooth on a purpose-made device, or even on a buffing wheel if you know the technique and have the skill, then "waxed" as described, and thus made playable.
You can also use commercial plastic cleaners/polishes/renewers, but you have to be careful, as some contain solvents that might penetrate the surface and affect the sound layer.
My first CD player was a Yamaha CD-2 that I bought in 1984. It finally went tits up last year after 27 years of service. Still haven't decided whether or not to have it repaired.
I don't know about a CD-2, but a GT-CD2 is definitely worth the cost of repairing. (Usually it's a nylon/plastic gear for the lid mechanism that goes on them. More durable metal after-market replacements are sometimes available from Japan.)