Yamaha NS-1000M Refinish
- Thread starter stevensctt
- Start date
The NS1000M from Kenrick are exceptional. If you could duplicate those, I will send cabinets to you now!
Applying veneer is actually easier (and probably cheaper) than refinishing, IMO. The key is to have cabinets with sharp edges and corners. I'll post photos of the JBL L100 (when complete) with new veneer as well as photos of Pioneer HPM100 with new veneer I have already completed.
Here are photos of Pioneer HPM100 that I have already finished with Walnut Veneer and a couple of applications of Tung Oil. Believe me, easier and cheaper than refinishing with stain and poly.
Also included is a photo of a JBL L100, just started with patch repairs. I will complete with new Walnut veneer tomorrow. With only four sides, couldn't be easier.
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Looking real good - could you take a pic of the inside and post before you put them back together. I've never looked inside mine and don't want to touch them but always have been curious to see the workings
Thanks for the last pic in your last post also. I have a new project - I picked up a pair of the NS-244's yesterday and the speakers are in perfect shape but the cabinets are pretty beat. All the corners are rounded. It has vinyl walnut on it. I'm thinking of squaring off the corners and putting vineer on them. Either that or new vinyl. Just trying to decide how much effort/cost for their worth.
Thanks for the last pic in your last post also. I have a new project - I picked up a pair of the NS-244's yesterday and the speakers are in perfect shape but the cabinets are pretty beat. All the corners are rounded. It has vinyl walnut on it. I'm thinking of squaring off the corners and putting vineer on them. Either that or new vinyl. Just trying to decide how much effort/cost for their worth.
I have the drivers already installed but you can see at least parts of the inside from some of the photos. The insides of the cabinets are lined with a dense, carpet like material. The top half of the NS1000M has a circular wooden (plywood) disc (12" diameter?) on the back. No idea what this is for.
Applying wood veneer to the four sides of the NS-244 should be easy. Wood veneer is easier to apply than vinyl. The rounded corners do need to be fixed, use Bondo.
Thanks, pleased with the way they turned out. The Walnut and Tung Oil finish maintain the vintage look.
allsmith
Super Member
Those HPM's look great! Where did you get your veneer and what did it cost for the one pair of speakers? Man you have all the great classics there! so you apply the new veneer over the old? Have you ever applied new veneer over vinyl veneer before? I have a pair of MCS's with vinyl that i would like to practice on,but not sure if i would have to remove the old vinyl or not.
As the painting goes i really like speakers that have a front baffle that is flush with the sides and has no seam like the NS's or my ADS 1290's or these http://app.audiogon.com/listings/fu...acquer-loudspeakers-2012-10-30-speakers-92602 and these http://www.google.com/imgres?q=pian...=136&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:8,s:0,i:113 A speaker with a set back front baffle woulds be too hard to wet sand and buff after its been painted.
Like on your L100's its flush but has a seam,you could fill that seam with body filler and paint or veneer the front and run without a grill,i think speakers look so much better without grills!
Do you have a air compessor and cheap spray gun? Maybe you could do most of the work,like filling,priming and sanding then take the cabinets to a local body shop and have them paint and buff? Might keep the cost down.
Check out some of these finishes! Do you like the black or a tinted clear look like the ones with red tinted clear?http://www.vaporsound.com/#all
As the painting goes i really like speakers that have a front baffle that is flush with the sides and has no seam like the NS's or my ADS 1290's or these http://app.audiogon.com/listings/fu...acquer-loudspeakers-2012-10-30-speakers-92602 and these http://www.google.com/imgres?q=pian...=136&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:8,s:0,i:113 A speaker with a set back front baffle woulds be too hard to wet sand and buff after its been painted.
Like on your L100's its flush but has a seam,you could fill that seam with body filler and paint or veneer the front and run without a grill,i think speakers look so much better without grills!
Do you have a air compessor and cheap spray gun? Maybe you could do most of the work,like filling,priming and sanding then take the cabinets to a local body shop and have them paint and buff? Might keep the cost down.
Check out some of these finishes! Do you like the black or a tinted clear look like the ones with red tinted clear?http://www.vaporsound.com/#all
I buy veneer locally from Woodworkers Source in Phoenix, AZ. I purchase 4' x 8' paper back sheets for about $75, more than enough for a pair of speakers. The veneer cost per speaker is about $50. Veneer is readily available from many on-line sellers.
You can apply new veneer right over the old as long as the old surface is stable. For the HPM100, I did need to remove the veneer on the top of one as it was peeling, result of a watered plant on top at one time.
You cannot apply wood veneer over vinyl. The vinyl must be removed, relatively easy with a heat gun.
Nice idea taking the cabinets to a body shop.
I use Minwax high performance wood filler. It is a two part mix with a hardener. Much like Bondo with a short working time and hard finish but easier to sand.
Also use conventional paper backed veneer and contact cement.
Other than veneer, these are the only tools and supplies needed. And lots of blades for the knife, change often. The scraper is a must.
