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Denon DL-102 vs. GE VRII: anybody try both?

Denon DL-102:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39332736/Rek-O-Kut/DL-102_connor.aiff

GE VRII:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39332736/Rek-O-Kut/rok-ge-connor.aiff

connorBethlehem10.jpg
 
I've downloaded and listened to both. Very interesting. I want to listen to them a few more times and let them 'soak in' a bit before I form opinions.

Thank you for sharing these with us.

TW
 
The General Electric VRII arrived today!

I replaced the LP stylus with a NOS genuine GE .7mil stylus and got this mounted on the ROK @ 4 grams. Holy crap, this cartridge sounds GREAT on old mono LPs, provided you have a suitably massive arm.

Compared to the DL-102, it doesn't quite have the same top-end air but has better transient response, slightly richer mids and better bass weight. The DL-102 may have more delicacy, but the GE absolutely rocks. The GE also betters the Denon's already impressive ability to reject record noise.

The fact that replacement styli for the GE are widely available for $15, and that it can do 78 duty, seals the deal; the Denon is now listed on eBay.

GE_ROK_zps94e48aa4.jpg

That's great! I'm glad you found one so quickly...sounds like your experience with these two carts is about the same as mine, but your description is prettier than mine :D

Enjoy~Brian
 
That's great! I'm glad you found one so quickly...sounds like your experience with these two carts is about the same as mine, but your description is prettier than mine :D

Enjoy~Brian

Thanks again for your earlier insight, Brian. It really did help me decide how to proceed. :thmbsp:

I am very likely going to build a sort of standalone base for the arm, so that I can set it up with my TD-124. That would enable me to play any record (except for Edison discs) on the Thorens. I'm still designing the base in my head, but I think I have a workable plan.
 
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Congrats!

regarding an outboard arm pod,….
My daily driver, an idler, has a base plinth, and a separate arm board that is made from the same material. I wanted it to be isolated from the plinth, yet be visually integral. So I isolated the arm board from the plinth with a layer of thin split leather.
The result had a nice sounding rig, but with a deeply buried rumble that bugged the heck out of me. I tried lots of different "fixes" that didn't work the way that I had hoped.
What did work,….
I moved to a new house. In moving the deck, I removed the arm board, and transported it separately. But in doing that, I misplaced the leather isolation slip. So I shrugged it off, and hooked the rig up; rumble gone. Rumble gone.
A little while later, I found the leather isolation slip in a box of audio stuff, and reinstalled it; rumble returns. Rumble returns.
I removed the leather; rumble gone---- and so on, and so on.

In discussing this with an audio engineer friend of mine, we concluded that the leather slip was isolating the arm board to such a degree that the rumble that was present was being received by the tonearm/cart as a new independent signal, to be amplified, as opposed to a shared common signal that is cancelled as common. In other words, with an idler drive, you're better off not having a separate arm board, as it amplifies the rumble; whereas with a firmly attached arm/base interface, you cancel out the rumble.
Hopefully this makes sense. It worked wonders for me in eliminating an annoying anomaly.
I'm firmly convinced of the critical nature of this firm interface of arm and plinth, at least in idler drives.
 
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^^Interesting...

Integrating the 160 arm with the TD-124 will have to be done via an external base, as the existing plinth only has space for the stock armboard, which has an SME on it. Fortunately my Thorens is very quiet, so I do not anticipate any rumble issues.

What I have in mind is to cut a piece of 3/4" MDF and bolt it to the top corner of my FleXy Rack, so that it can articulate horizontally (for adjusting overhang). The 160 arm would be mounted to a riser similar to (but smaller than) the one seen in the photo below.

mqdefault.jpg
 
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Glenn the only problem I can see mounting your arm to the flexy rack is possible vibrations. Plus if the rack moves or you bump into it, it can move. Unless you have the rack mounted solidly to the wall. You might have to dampened some how. JMO
 
Glenn the only problem I can see mounting your arm to the flexy rack is possible vibrations. Plus if the rack moves or you bump into it, it can move. Unless you have the rack mounted solidly to the wall. You might have to dampened some how. JMO

I think it will be OK... the rack is very heavy and very rigid, and the floor is wood over concrete.

I made a diagram of what I have in mind... any input is appreciated.

 
That looks good. The base will be screwed to the shelf?

The base will be bolted to a corner of the uppermost FleXy shelf (the narrow grey thing in the diagram is one of the four 3/4" threaded rods), and the riser will be screwed and glued to the base.
 
Oh I see what your saying now. The threaded rod will go right thru the base and bolted down that way. Its funny because I have been building a 12 inch arm for my 124. Except I'm using an arm board. It's my Christmas present to my self.
 
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Oh I see what your saying now. The threaded rod will go right thru the base and bolted down that way.

That's right, you got it!

Its funny because I have been building a 12 inch arm for my 124. Except I'm using an arm board. It's my Christmas present to my self.

Bob, I sure wish I had your woodworking ability!

What arm are you putting on there? An SME 3012?
 
A custom Ortofon AS212. This is just a file picture. I should have mine any day. The arm board was being trial fitted before paint.
 

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