Additional suggestions....
I *always* take pictures of my amps before working on them. I also measure and record each resistor's measured value and its spec'd value based on what I can read on the color bands in my hand-drawn notes - something drilled into me in engineering school.
On the MC-30s, I do not purchase any resistors until I am clear what I need after assessment. Also, since I don't have a decade resistor box, I purchase a number of extra value resistors around the bias circuit resistor values so that I can get it adjusted correctly through a bit of trial-and-measure.
On the resistors, I had well over 50% of the resistors out of spec when I first went to work and then about about another 25% of the originals drift out of spec after I started using it on a daily basis. I generally will 'burn in' an amp like this for a few weeks to be sure that those old carbon resistors do cause any extra problems later.
My experience with the MC-30s is that there are so few components, its just as easy to 'blueprint' it - that is, replace all the resistors and caps on the board. Be careful with those boards, too, as they are quite brittle and will break if you pull or push on it in just the right way. You can repair them with toothpicks coated with epoxy, though. They tend to break right at the mounting points.
Make sure you've got a Variac to set the bias according to Terry's notes in the Hints section. Outside of that, about all you'll need is a DVOM and a good work surface.
They'll sound awesome when you're through, too
Cheers,
David
