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Racapping Polk Monitor 11

shacky

shacky

Addicted Member
I ordered caps from Parts Connection the other day. They are having a great sale on Axon caps (made same place as Solen).

Here's what I ordered thinking that 0.5 cap was part of tweeter:

CLARITY-74830 Each 0.47uf 250VDC, +/- 3%, ESA
Series, Capacitor
2 2 5.59 11.18
Discount 20.00% -1.12 -2.24
MATCHFEE 1 1 MP MATCHING FEE PER PAIR 1.00 1.00
AXON-73687 Each 47uF 250V 5% TRUE
CAPACITOR
2 2 8.93 17.86
MATCHFEE 1 1 MP MATCHING FEE PER PAIR 1.00 1.00
AXON-73688 Each 43uF 250V 5% TRUE
CAPACITOR
2 2 8.21 16.42
MATCHFEE 1 1 MP MATCHING FEE PER PAIR 1.00 1.00
AXON-73713 Each 4.7uF 250V 5% TRUE
CAPACITOR
2 2 1.69 3.38
MATCHFEE 1 1 MP MATCHING FEE PER PAIR 1.00 1.00
MILLS-71909 Each MRA-12 4R7 1% MILLS
RESISTOR
4 4 4.95 19.80

Looks like that Clarity cap was bit of a waste since I found out from Polk forum it is not in line with tweeter.

Most folks on Polk forum dislike bypassing. But I was thinking of bypassing that 4.7 with one or two Russian PIO 0.1's for the 4.9 in diagram.

Polk guys highly recommend Clarity or Sonicap in line with Tweeter. Mine have Peerless.

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shacky said:
Looks like that Clarity cap was bit of a waste since I found out from Polk forum it is not in line with tweeter.
Click to expand...

My experience does not support this. I found that better caps produce better results regardless of whether or not they are in series with the driver. Case in point, with my mod I use a specifically chosen cap for the woofer circuit.

Most folks on Polk forum dislike bypassing. But I was thinking of bypassing that 4.7 with one or two Russian PIO 0.1's for the 4.9 in diagram.
Click to expand...

I go with the minimalist approach. There needs to be a specific tonal response reason for adding components. Keep the number of components in the crossover to a minimum. Only include what is needed to accomplish the design goal. Anything else only contributes to loss/distortion and wastes money.

There may be a good reason to bypass an electrolytic.
 
Dave1027 said:
My experience does not support this. I found that better caps produce better results regardless of whether or not they are in series with the driver. Case in point, with my mod I use a specifically chosen cap for the woofer circuit.



I go with the minimalist approach. There needs to be a specific tonal response reason for adding components. Keep the number of components in the crossover to a minimum. Only include what is needed to accomplish the design goal. Anything else only contributes to loss/distortion and wastes money.

There may be a good reason to bypass an electrolytic.
Click to expand...

+1
Don't use (and bypass) electrolytics in crossovers.
 
I don't plan on using any electrolytics. And will rethink the bypass isea. I had read over the years that a high quality - like my Russian PIO - bypass cap can bring the combination up to higher performace.

But I know it's a controversial topic.
 
I started taking one of the Monitor 11's apart tonight. Wow - guy that blew fuse and midrange must have really done a number on these. One of the resistors had burned pretty bad. Left a bunch of char on PCB board and melted nearby zip cord holding coil. Good thing i ordered new Mills resistors.

The burnt resistor reads 5.1 ohms. Other one reads 4.6 (both labeled 4.5.

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PCB char can be conductive. Make sure you've got it completely coated before you put a new resistor over it or make sure the char doesn't extend to the terminals.
 
shacky said:
What do you think caused this? Clipping? Or shifted magnet putting strain on crossover?
Click to expand...

Perhaps a previous driver shorted out and the previous owner didn't check the xover because it seemed to work when he replaced the driver. The shifted magnet theory is pretty good, too, although I had 2 drivers locked solid in my Monitor 10's when I got them and no sign of damage to the xover.
 
Nice work! I'd like to compare the 11's with the 10's someday. Perhaps I will luck up and find some 11's one day.
 
Finished this first crossover. I used Russian 0.1 to bypass Axon 4.7 on tweeter. I meant to order higher quality for tweeter. For some reason I thought that was the 0.5 which is part of midrange. So there is a nice Clarity cap in that position.

I know the folks on Polk forum do not like bypass idea but I figure this PIO has to help more than hurt.

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Finished one speaker. Burning it in as I write. Tried mono comparison right away and recapped actually sounded less brite - which in my book is AOK.

Some more pictures of the project.

Used Dynamat on drivers based on Polk Forum feedback. Also used JB Weld on magnets to avoid dreaded shifted magnet.

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I was afraid this might not fit as I built up height with new caps. Have one finger to spare :thmbsp:

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I replace the plastic one ways with spacers, nuts and bolts to support the added weight.

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Finally finished recapping, JB Welding and Dynamating other M11.

These are stunning sounding speakers :banana: Smooth, detailed and wonderful full bass.

I may be up late tonight going through my catelogue :D
 
Nice work! Monitor 11s are hard to come by. Not that common!

Enjoy! (Those Polkies will always get you to spend MORE rather than LESS, lol)
 
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