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Rega motor upgrade, my tips

JohnMichael

Super Member
I recently upgraded the 14 year old motor in my equally old Planar 2 and I learned some things the instructions will not tell you.

My old table's surface where the motor is to be mounted was rough and porous. The double sided adhesive pad would not stick to the surface. Out of frustration and my thinking that I made my very dependable Rega a non functioning turntable I did some things differently.

I followed the instructions regarding soldering the switch wires to the pcb board before I knew the pad was not going to stick. The instructions also mentioned taping down the subplatter to keep it in place but with the time the table was upside down I decided to loosen the nut holding the bearing well in place. I then lifted the well and subplatter up from the plinth.

Once the old motor is removed I wiped the surface with an alcohol pad to remove any buildup from years of use. Since the pad would not stick to the surface I used a small amount of wood glue on the area for the pad. I let it dry for 24 hours. After 24 hours the surface was now smoother and shiny. I could tell by looking at it the pad would stick this time.

After the glue was dry and I was waiting on replacement pads I had another idea. My older Rega had two screw holes that held the old motor mount and the new motor also had two holes. Since centering the motor required flipping the table right side up to check it's placement I decided to line up the new motor's mounting plate holes with the holes in the plinth and draw an outline of the motor. This will help with the placement of the adhesive pad and when you have the pad in the proper place the motor will be centered. The motor mount is the same shape as the pad.

I wanted to attach the adhesive pad to the plinth first so I removed the paper cover and used the outline to place the pad properly. I could tell it was really going to stick this time. After about 4 hours I put the motor on the pad with the protective paper still over the adhesive. I held the motor in place and flipped it to see that the motor would be centered in the cutout of the plinth. Once I knew the motor would be properly centered if it aligned with the pad I removed the cover and placed the motor so it was aligned with the pad. I found this easier than trying to flip the table back and forth several times. It was also easier than trying to lightly stick the motor, recheck, pull from the pad and try again.

Once the motor is attached then back to the standard instructions. I hope this helps anyone who may try to upgrade an older Rega table. It is well worth the effort and I hope my methods make it easier for others.
 
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My used Planar 3 came with 24v motor upgrade. It is also mounted with screws along with the padding. According the prior owner, the upgrade was done by a Rega dealer. I think the screws do help further in stabilizing the motor in position.
 
My used Planar 3 came with 24v motor upgrade. It is also mounted with screws along with the padding. According the prior owner, the upgrade was done by a Rega dealer. I think the screws do help further in stabilizing the motor in position.


I thought about using screws and nuts but then I wondered if they would transfer vibrations to the plinth and on to the arm. I wonder if the dealer had the same troubles I had with the pad adhering to the plinth?
 
I've placed a graphite washer on the screw head between the plinth. But I would expect the vibration would be more readily transferred via padding than the two screws. The new motor is supposed to be much quieter, right?
 
Having something like motor mounted with adhesive pads does not look as good engineering practice. I would use screws to make sure that motor won't move when pads degrade over time.
 
I've placed a graphite washer on the screw head between the plinth. But I would expect the vibration would be more readily transferred via padding than the two screws. The new motor is supposed to be much quieter, right?



Yes the new motor is a lower vibration and more speed accurate. My thought was that the pad would dissipate any remaining vibrations. I ordered my motor upgrade from an online Rega store and they had a hard time believing I was having trouble with the pads. More modern Rega's must use a different material because they told me that all the tables they upgraded were easy to do and they had no problems. I wonder if they will get any back.
 
Having something like motor mounted with adhesive pads does not look as good engineering practice. I would use screws to make sure that motor won't move when pads degrade over time.


As far as I know that is how the motors are mounted in the current models of Rega ttables. I do not know if that is true for the P7 or P9. I have no idea what material or adhesives make up the pads but Rega builds for longevity so I trust it will hold up. The music sure sounds better.
 
Yes the new motor is a lower vibration and more speed accurate. My thought was that the pad would dissipate any remaining vibrations. I ordered my motor upgrade from an online Rega store and they had a hard time believing I was having trouble with the pads. More modern Rega's must use a different material because they told me that all the tables they upgraded were easy to do and they had no problems. I wonder if they will get any back.

This give me an idea of a DIY project for me. I am guessing the best means of TT motor installation is to isolate the motor kinetic energy from the plinth. I am thinking about insulating the whole motor housing with retardant material like sheet of dynamat or perhaps a spay of "flex-seal" rubbery sealant from the infomercial.
 
This give me an idea of a DIY project for me. I am guessing the best means of TT motor installation is to isolate the motor kinetic energy from the plinth. I am thinking about insulating the whole motor housing with retardant material like sheet of dynamat or perhaps a spay of "flex-seal" rubbery sealant from the infomercial.

Very interesting idea and let us know your findings.
 
Like this...

I used akasa PaxMate which is similar to Dynamat. Screws and washers are from a PC noise reduction kit. Results in near silent operation.

Cheers
 
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Good idea but I know the 24v motor upgrade would be impressive.

Yeah I know but I couldn't justify spending the extra $$ for the 24v upgrade.
I took the less expensive (cheaper :D) route and bought the P2 motor. Still an improvement over the original motor plus thinking about an MH Cruise Control.
 
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Yeah I know but I couldn't justify spending the extra $$ for the 24v upgrade.
I took the less expensive (cheaper :D) route and bought the P2 motor. Still an improvement over to original motor plus thinking about an MH Cruise Control.


I skipped the first round of motor upgrades so when the newest came out and I can use the TT PSU with it I went for it.
 
As far as I know that is how the motors are mounted in the current models of Rega ttables. I do not know if that is true for the P7 or P9. I have no idea what material or adhesives make up the pads but Rega builds for longevity so I trust it will hold up. The music sure sounds better.

It would be enough to recommend pass on this brand.
 
I used akasa PaxMate which is similar to Dynamat. Screws and washers are from a PC noise reduction kit. Results in near silent operation.

Cheers

Yup, that's exactly what I wish to do. The 24v motor upgrade kit comes with different PCB mounted outside/below the motor housing and should be able to insulate the sides as well.

Glad to hear it makes further improvement in dampening vibration/noise.
 
Raising a 1-year+ old thread from the dead, just wanted to give my impressions of this upgrade for anyone considering it.
I bought mine from Audio Advisor for $160.
http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RE24VMUK

I replaced the AC motor on my P3 (I believe it's AKA the P3 2000) about 3 weeks ago.
I had concerns since people had posted that the double sided pads came loose after a few days. Because of this, I made sure that all glue and residue from the old motor was removed before I installed the new pads. It's been 3 weeks and the motor is still in there solid as it was when I first installed it. The way the upgraded motor is attached is almost the same as the old motor, btw.

Installation is pretty easy. Electrically you just unsolder and solder a couple of connections. Mechanically you just remove the old mother, clean the mounting surface, and line it up. I'm not sure if I got lucky or if it's pretty much self-aligning, but I eyeballed it and it is pretty close to perfectly centered.

Sound-wise I'm sure there was an improvement over the old motor. Bass is for sure bigger, and the whole image seems more stable. Instruments are more precisely located.
The old motor also ran a little fast (+10%), and this motor is right on speed.

FWIW - I also did the Groovetracer subplatter mod and didn't notice a whole lot of difference, but I did have a much different (less revealing) system then so take that for what it's worth.
 
Well the magic was lost while listening to vinyl. I noticed the belt riding low and I checked and the motor had pulled away from the pad. I am redoing it all but lost trust issues with dependability.
 
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I checked the install date and I do not want to reinstall the motor every year+. I should call Rega and ask for some more pads. I am thinking about a SOTA Satellite table and mount my Incognito rewired and Michell Technoweight modded RB250 tonearm.

After work this evening I will be curious to hear how it sounds and how long it will last. My faith in my Rega has faltered.
 
I had concerns since people had posted that the double sided pads came loose after a few days. Because of this, I made sure that all glue and residue from the old motor was removed before I installed the new pads. It's been 3 weeks and the motor is still in there solid as it was when I first installed it. The way the upgraded motor is attached is almost the same as the old motor, btw.

FWIW - I also did the Groovetracer subplatter mod and didn't notice a whole lot of difference, but I did have a much different (less revealing) system then so take that for what it's worth.



My Rega Planar 2 had the motor that was suspended by an O ring and the assembly was attached by two screws. The fiberboard that was used at the time was very porous and the pad would not adhere to the plinth. I have now coated it three times in hopes the pads will stick.
 
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