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RS-3000's sing - crazy rebuild

BrocLuno

Lunatic Member
I just finished the pair of RS-3000's I brought back from the dead. Co-worker bought them from yard sale for $5. Got them home and only one woofer was working out of four drivers. He passed them onto me to see if I could resurrect?

One X-Over was toast with an exploded cap on the bass circuit. Both tweets and one woof were open. The cabs were good. So I started noodling. I ordered 10 uF poly caps for the bass side and some extras for other speakers projects I have going. First I tossed in a Radio Shack cap to see if I could get a signal out of bad X-Over. Got one to a test speaker, so on to next.

Got two PolyCell tweets off the Bay for $30. They are in good shape and sound good/equal. OK, that's out of the way.

Start looking for 902-2666 woof to replace the blown one - no dice. None to be had. Don't want to spend $$ on rebuild, plus whoever had it originally, must have thought they could fix the thing 'cause it had bent frame from improper removal/drop. Toss one woof. Use other for comparison sound testing.

Start getting into 4 Ohm 8" woofers & bids. Got an AudioVox laying around from the kids guitar amp. Not good match and muddy. Got an 8 Ohm Eosone for another project - no match - fuzzy/dark. Knew it would not match X-Over, but what the hey?

Email infinity for T/S params. No dice. They write back that info is never given out. Have new tweets in stock. No woofs. They have no recommended replacements. Say there are "not any likely any that will work". :(

Get Eosone RD-0014 off the Bay for $19 pair plus shipping. Poly cones and all. Sound OK, but not enough bass and still not quite as clear as the original. Advertised as mid-bass and it is. Nice speaker, just not a match.

Get a 8" 4 Ohm Goldwood from Part Express. It looks gorgeous - cast frame, biding posts, big motor. No dice. Good speaker, very clear and defined (recommended for other projects), but no match to the tweets in volume curve. Way to soft comparatively. Add resistance to tweets to try to match, but it's bust. Send them back.

Get a pair of HKW/Westra 8" 4 Ohm woofers off the Bay. Not the best looking speaker I ever saw. Shiny treated paper cone, slightly undersized frame. That means new mounting holes, but plenty of wood in cab for that. Sound real close to Infinity woof. Now we're getting somewhere.

Other Ak'ers start asking about possibles for their RS series that use similar woofs. Recommend this one:yes: But one more test !!!

Oh, follow Bully's advice and add front/back brace above woofer cut-out. BIG difference. More bass and more well defined too :D

Get Peerless 4 Ohm off the Bay for $9 pair plus shipping. I'll wait final judgment until they arrive. Came today. 101 in the shade and 98 in the shop. Oh well, let's get this done.

Pull a Westra and install Peerless. Really nice speaker. Poly cone, fits the original holes perfectly, BIG motor (I'm thinking this will blow the Westra away, and it has a pretty big mag too).

Run it up against the Westra in final A-B test. Oopps. Little old German undersized woofer is consistently slightly better.

On axis about the same. Little more refined bass from Westra and slightly more of it. Both match the tweets on volume /efficiency curve. Both sound good on axis with the Mitsubishi cranking away. Up to 3/4 throttle and still hanging in there. Tools are rattling in the shop !!!

Off axis, the treated paper cone Westra sounds better. I mean off axis by more than 45 degrees. Anywhere in front, both sound good. But the further you get to the side the less the Peerless fills the space. Peerless is a bit brighter (maybe a few %). Sort of noticeable in direct side by side testing - likely not in room with furniture and such.

OK, pull Peerless, and re-install Westra. Solder all up. Use silicone sealer around base of frame to get air tight seal. Let dry a a while and haul in the house to replace some tired original EPI 100's that need surrounds and caps.

Wife asks what these are? Tell her they are for the bedroom A/V system while I o'haul the EPIs. OK, that's cool. She helps me install under the A/V stack. Fire them up and Oh My God - WONDER :thmbsp: Dial in Direct TV Bluesville and YEAH - lets boogie :banana::banana::banana:

If you'all can tell me how to do the picture thing, I'll post snaps and specs in a day or so?

Right now I got true Calif Sound Infinity's running again :D Maybe better than new :hug: The detail and sound are clear clean and bass you can feel w/o any ringing or carry on AT ALL. Big bass drum is one thud right in your chest. These babies just set a new standard in this neighborhood for 2 way speakers !!!! :D
 
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Broc Luno,
That is an interesting walkthrough of your project. Thank you.

Once you have your pictures onto your PC, you can attach them to any post of yours, new or old, by using the Manage Attachments option towards the bottom of the post screen. It will allow for you to browse your hard drive and upload from there.

Vito
 
I just finished the pair of RS-3000's I brought back from the dead. Co-worker bought them from yard sale for $5. Got them home and only one woofer was working out of four drivers. He passed them onto me to see if I could resurrect?

One X-Over was toast with an exploded cap on the bass circuit. Both tweets and one woof were open. The cabs were good. So I started noodling. I ordered 10 uF poly caps for the bass side and some extras for other speakers projects I have going. First I tossed in a Radio Shack cap to see if I could get a signal out of bad X-Over. Got one to a test speaker, so on to next.

Got two PolyCell tweets off the Bay for $30. They are in good shape and sound good/equal. OK, that's out of the way.

Start looking for 902-2666 woof to replace the blown one - no dice. None to be had. Don't want to spend $$ on rebuild, plus whoever had it originally, must have thought they could fix the thing 'cause it had bent frame from improper removal/drop. Toss one woof. Use other for comparison sound testing.

Start getting into 4 Ohm 8" woofers & bids. Got an AudioVox laying around from the kids guitar amp. Not good match and muddy. Got an 8 Ohm Eosone for another project - no match - fuzzy/dark. Knew it would not match X-Over, but what the hey?

Email infinity for T/S params. No dice. They write back that info is never given out. Have new tweets in stock. No woofs. They have no recommended replacements. Say there are not likely any that will work. :tears:

Get Eosone RD-0014 off the Bay for $19 pair plus shipping. Poly cones and all. Sound OK, but not enough bass and still not quite as clear as the original. Advertised as mid-bass and it is. Nice speaker, just not a match.

Get a 8" 4 Ohm Goldwood from Part Express. It looks gorgeous - cast frame, biding posts, big motor. No dice. Good speaker, very clear and defined (recommended for other projects), but no match to the tweets in volume curve. Way to soft comparatively. Add resistance to tweets to try to match, but it's bust. Send them back.

Get a pair of HKW/Westra 8" 4 Ohm woofers off the Bay. Not the best looking speaker I ever saw. Shiny treated paper cone, slightly undersized frame. That means new mounting holes, but plenty of wood in cab for that. Sound real close to Infinity woof. Now we're getting somewhere.

Other Ak'ers start asking about possibles for their RS series that use similar woofs. Recommend this one:yes: But one more test !!!

Oh, follow Bully's advice and add front/back brace above woofer cut-out. BIG difference. More bass and more well defined too :yes:

Get Peerless 4 Ohm off the Bay for $9 pair plus shipping. I'll wait final judgment until they arrive. Came today. 101 in the shade and 98 in the shop. Oh well, let's get this done.

Pull a Westra and install Peerless. Really nice speaker. Poly cone, fits the original holes perfectly, BIG motor (I'm thinking this will blow the Westra away, and it has a pretty big mag too).

Run it up against the Westra in final A-B test. Oopps. Little old German undersized woofer is consistently slightly better.

On axis about the same. Little more refined bass from Westra and slightly more of it. Both match the tweets on volume /efficiency curve. Both sound good on axis with the Mitsubishi cranking away. Up to 3/4 throttle and still hanging in there. Tools are rattling in the shop !!!

Off axis, the treated paper cone Westra sounds better. I mean off axis by more than 45 degrees. Anywhere in front, both sound good. But the further you get to the side the less the Peerless fills the space. Peerless is a bit brighter (maybe a few %). Sort of noticeable in direct side by side testing - likely not in room with furniture and such.

OK, pull Peerless, and re-install Westra. Solder all up. Use silicone sealer around base of frame to get air tight seal. Let dry a a while and haul in the house to replace some tired original EPI 100's that need surrounds and caps.

Wife asks what these are? Tell her they are for the bedroom A/V system while I o'haul the EPIs. OK, that's cool. She helps me install under the A/V stack. Fire them up and Oh My God - WONDER :thmbsp: Dial in Direct TV Bluesville and YEAH - lets boogie :banana::banana::banana:

If you'all can tell me how to do the picture thing, I'll post snaps and specs in a day or so?

Right now I got true Calif Sound Infinity's running again :banana: Maybe better than new :scratch2: The detail and sound are clear clean and bass you can feel w/o any ringing or carry on AT ALL. Big bass drum is one thud right in your chest. These babies just set a new standard in this neighborhood for 2 way speakers !!!! :D

Broc Luno

thanks for the information. Much appreciated. Eagerly await the photo(s).

Cheers.
 
OK, pull Peerless, and re-install Westra. Solder all up. Use silicone sealer around base of frame to get air tight seal. Let dry a a while and haul in the house to replace some tired original EPI 100's that need surrounds and caps.

Broc Luno,

what silicone sealer did you use for the seal?

Thanks.

Cheers.
 
Black GE Silicone II

Broc Luno,

what silicone sealer did you use for the seal?

Thanks.

Cheers.

I use it for everything I might want to take apart later. I use it for automotive, home repairs, boat work, etc.

I get the smaller contractor tubes, put it in a caulking gun and use it as needed. Works fine. Cleans up OK. If you need to get it off later, just pull the bits apart and roll it off any flat surface with the finger or palm of your hand.
 
Infinity 902-2666 woofer replacement ...

OK, so earlier I said I would give out the specs, so here goes. I don't have the means right now to measure the Theil/Small parameters, but I can pass along the specs that came with all my test woofers.

1.) AudioVox 4 Ohm guitar speaker - no specs, but it sounded bad so who cares :no:

2.) Eosone 1RD0014:
CONE: POLY GRAPHITE
IMPEDANCE: 4 OHMS
POWER: 50 WATTS RMS 100 PEAK
MODEL: 1RD0014-1
OUTER DIAMETER: 8 1/16"
CUTOUT DIAMETER: 7 1/4"
SCREW SPACING: 7 3/4" DIAG
DEPTH (OVERALL/MOUNTING): 3 3/8 / 2 7/9"
MAGNET DIAMETER: 3 1/8"

Would work - but not as clear as the better choices. I might put these in a pair of ratty Infinity 1500's I was trying to sell for party speakers, figuring the kids would blow them up anyway? Perfect fit and poly cone, but not 100% on sound. They're rated for mid-bass and that's what they are. :drool:

3.) Goldwood GW-8PC-30-4 Heavy Duty Woofer. Parts express number 290-312. You can get specs there.

Real nice speaker. Would use on another project. Very detailed sound but way off on efficiency match and SPL curve with Infinity PolyCell Tweeters. :no:

4.) HKM/Westra (this is the closest match for the 902-2666 and a great woofer). Slightly different voicing due to treated paper cone, in lieu of Infinity Poly-Cone. Specs are:

4 ohms
Power 60 watts RMS (110 watts Peak) 120 Watts RMS in a home serial application (230 watts peak)
1 1/2 inch voice coil
SPL is 90db 1000 Hz. at 1 watt/meter
Fs is 33.6402 Hz
Revc is 3.3844 ohms
Qms = 3.4342
Qes = 0.5628
Qts = 0.4836
Le = 0.4187 mH ( @ 1 kHz.)
Vas = 40 liters
Cms = 0.0200 uM/Newton
Bl = 1193.6470 N/A
Freq. Response 30 Hz. to 3,500 Hz.
Size - 8 1/16 inches ( 205 cm ) dia. - Fits into a 7 inch hole opening - 3 1/4 inch mounting depth

Very close to 902-2666 in sound and efficiency curve. Slightly smaller so need new mounting holes. Good match for the 902-2722 (or other PolyCell) tweeter using the RS-3000 crossover.

These are the ones I kept and am very happy with them in the RS-3000's currently in the A/V system. I would guess that any speaker that comes close to these values would work as well.

Note: This woofer might be considered a bit bass heavy (but extremely well controlled), but the Infinity RS-3000's were considered a "full" speaker. If you want a bit less bass, use the Peerless listed below.

5.) Peerless 8 inch 4 Ohm Poly-Cone woofer - . Really nice woofer. Would be my second choice after the Westra. Has the stiff vented cloth dust cover a la AR.

Can't find the T/S info, but made in Denmark by the same folks who make Vifa. All I have are the following:

Qc 340707
Cat No. 831949
4 Ohm
8 Inch

Really well made speaker for a stamped steel frame unit. Big magnet structure. Perfect physical fit for the 902-2666. Sounds close and is a good alternative. :yes:

Hope this helps somebody. After breaking in my reborn RS-3000's for a few days, I cranked them up today with some Stevie Ray Vaughn and Etta James and they really rock. So nice and tight, well controlled, but they can get loud in a modest room and they hit you in the chest when the big down beat comes in :music: :music: :music:
 
OK, now they've been running for a couple of weeks and guess what, the wife is enjoying them! Albeit, they are doing duty in the temp AV system, but she's playing them louder than any of the others and playing more music too. Must have hit a sweet spot with these?
 
Nice job!! My RS3k's are great. Unfortunately I just dropped one and damaged the exterior cabinet... been wanting to figure out a way to recover/veneer them black or any color but oak so I guess that is an excuse to do so. I am pretty pleased with the sound, great detail on the receiver's I've tried them with. I don't get a kick in the chest with the bass with the electronics I run, but it's certainly more than passable for their size! I need to figure out how/if I can get them into the bedroom... they're a little too big (or the room's a little too small) ... Hmmm... :scratch2:

Michael

Michael
 
Good project. Let see, remodel the room first, bump out the walls. Add bay windows. Add dedicated power lines for the audio equipment. Build in some nice cabs for the gear. Bury the speaker wires in the new walls with plate connections.

Then do an epoxy job of the speaker cabs where they got bumped. While you're at it, do the insides of the curved corners to stiffen the cabs overall. Get some nice black wood veneer and apply. Razor trim and you're ready to go.

All up - maybe $40K for a nicer bedroom sound. Easy as pie :) OK, I'm being a smart ass.

But, the cabs do have some areas where you can improve the sound. The inside of the curved corners were made by kerfing the wood. Adding a water based glue like yellow carpenters glue and filling the kerf cuts will really stiffen the cabs. Can be done while the woofers are out, one corner at a time. Just takes a bit of patience to let the glue dry before flipping to do the other side. Adding front/back brace really helps too. Both tighten the bass nicely :)
 
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