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Newly acquired Accuphase c-200

Cesari0

Active Member
Starting my own thread of my C-200, at the suggestion of the well respected forum member.

I got this unit along with a P-300, I heard them and they sounded fine, but like most responsible vintage gear owner, I opened them to see what the condition of the "little bits that matter" were. I didn't have to be an engineer to see that the Power Supply Assembly (719-0001-00) had too many fried resistors.

This thread started here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=339315&page=5

Right now my main objective is getting the power supply board to be 100% safely operational.

I have gotten most of the resistors, with the exception of 71.5k, 68.1k and 27.4k, which I will be getting from Dig-ikey, along with the 8 main capacitors.

this is my parts list thus far:
Specific resistors:
CMF71.5KHFCT-ND
CMF68.1KHFCT-ND
CMF27.4KHFCT-ND

CAPS:
493-1597-ND
493-1486-ND
493-5621-ND
493-1396-ND

I'm going to add more to the order, but at the moment I'm concentrating on the PS, and caps.

Any suggestion on my parts is greatly appreciated.
 
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I like to replace axial caps with axial caps when I can. In any case, here's a cap list that might help.

If you are going to replace the chassis mounted can-caps (the ones in the clamps), a couple of ring terminals crimped and soldered to the snap-in lugs will make connecting the wires easier and more professional looking. Digikey #A28265-ND.

Mouser sells cap clamps as well:
1" (26mm) = 539-VR1
1.377" (35mm) = 539-VR3
 

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Thanks EchoWars, your list and suggestion is greatly appreciated. It's gonna come in very handy.

I have one question:

How come my PS board has 2 caps at the back, you (echowars) and the service manual only call for one 33uf 25v?

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Just finished checking the schematics, and C7 goes with D7 and Q3.

The other cap seems to be attached to D6 and Q2. Should I remove this capacitor?

This is how the board looks now, still have to install 27.4k and 71.5k resistors.
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I see no reason for a cap across D6 (I'd just remove it and clean up the horrid soldering there). However, I have seen 33µf or 47µf 25V caps across D7, even though I've not found any engineering change notification for doing so. The C-200 I rebuilt recently had a 47µf 25V cap across D7, and I replaced it, as the cap appeared to be a factory change (the actual connection point on the solder mask was the anode of D7 and the emitter of Q7, which is electrically the same as connecting the cap from the anode to the cathode). Looks like I failed to update my cap list with this part.

Might also note that I moved R11 and R12 to the back of the board to keep them from baking the transistors.
 
Thanks for the suggestion of relocating R11-R12, the heat issue did cross my mind, but relocating the resistors didn't. Thanks!

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As for cleaning the D6/Cap soldering job, I was thinking of cleaning it up, but after a close inspection, it appears that the cooper tracing has/had lifted from the board, and the extra solder is there to give it some rigidity.


Thanks EchoWars
 
However, I have seen 33µf or 47µf 25V caps across D7, even though I've not found any engineering change notification for doing so.
I take that back...the cap is simply C7, and is shown on the schematic. However, there's no place on the solder mask for it, so it gets mounted on the back of the board by default.

Also, from my notes on the P-300 (which applies just as well to the C-200):
Soldering on the boards for the P-300 is tricky, partly because of the solder holes are plated through, and partly because the original tinning is very easily removed from the solder pads. Keep the soldering iron clean, and use paste flux on ALL connections. If you have trouble with solder sticking to the pads, remove all the solder with solder-wick, and polish the pad surface with a Q-Tip and Brasso.
 
I'm pretty much done with the C-200, I will load pictures soon with details of my experience, and many praises to EW.

I can't thank you enough Echowars.

The one thing I did do to both my C-200 and P-300 was replace ALL the 2SA776a and the 2SC1416 with equivalent KSA and KSC transistors.

Now here is where I'm gonna need some help.

I removed the speaker terminals on the P-300, and took some pictures.
Last night I accidentally erased the folder on my phone where all the Accuphase pictures were. I have backed almost all of the pictures onto my computer except for a few, and those few were of the speaker wires/terminals.

I have been trying to get a recovery software, they seem work, just that I have to buy the program to get my pictures back, all I need are 4 pictures on the folder which in my eyes doesn't justify spending $40... not yet.

If anyone has a picture of both terminals, or the wiring sequence, I would greatly, greatly appreciate it.

I'm getting stressed out since I can't get the service manual for the P-300.



I have managed to view a picture, and is shows me the bottom terminal, I have made a diagram, and I will use this to help me determine to the top terminal layout.

Thanks.




Thanks
 
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