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Yamaha YP211 anti skate weight.

jleon92f

jleon92f

Addicted Member
Good Morning,

I am planning to put my Yamaha -YP211 together this weekend. I bought a Ortofon OM 3E cartridge for it. It was missing the anti skate weight when I bought it on Ebay. Is there any info on how much this part weighs? Or if I can make one? Someone suggested epoxy. But I will still need to know the weight? :scratch2:

Thanks,

John. :music:
 
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For what it's worth, the anti-skate weight on my YP-701 is 1/12th of an ounce, measured on an Ohaus Model 800 scale (pretty accurate). Sorry, but it doesn't read in grams. The weight's dimensions are 8mm dia x 9mm high with maybe a third of the material inside removed through counterboring.

You could probably hack something useable out of the smooth part of a 5/16th stainless steel bolt. Very fine monofilament fishing line is good for the attachment line, and cheap.

Later edit: 1/12th oz. = 2.36 grams
 
ManFromPorlock said:
For what it's worth, the anti-skate weight on my YP-701 is 1/12th of an ounce, measured on an Ohaus Model 800 scale (pretty accurate). Sorry, but it doesn't read in grams. The weight's dimensions are 8mm dia x 9mm high with maybe a third of the material inside removed through counterboring.

You could probably hack something useable out of the smooth part of a 5/16th stainless steel bolt. Very fine monofilament fishing line is good for the attachment line, and cheap.

Later edit: 1/12th oz. = 2.36 grams
Click to expand...


Thank you VERY much, I will make something up using your specs. :thmbsp:
Thanks again,
John.. :music:
 
Most sporting good stores sell fishing weights. They are made of lead and available in the "12" size. That "12" means twelve per ounce. They are available in other sizes as well. I use a 1/16th weight on my turntable (a Thorens with Pioneer arm) and it seems to be just right.

Steel might be safer to have around but the lead weights are CHEAP and an easy fix.
 
Danj has a really good suggestion there. Try that before you get involved in making up a weight that may not look any better than a sinker -- and be less accurate.

However, if you've got very young kids in the house, that's another matter.
 
Thank you all!

Hi,

My Ortofon OM 3E came today, bought two for my stock. I will try the new idea too! They just opened a Cabelas sporting goods store here, now I have a reason to go. :thmbsp:

Thanks,
John.. :music:
 
I took the wieght off from my 211 and it weighs 1/16th ounce. The size of a small split shot sinker. The thread is very fine. Much finer than sewing thread. Maybe small guage monofilament would work. It hangs to about 3/8 inch from the top of the table.
 
I own a 211 as well with a missing anti skate weight, picked up one from needle doctor (can't remember the brand), they currently have two types project and music hall (i think this is the one i have), the one i ordered did not come with any sort of string so used the finest fishing line i could find and it all looks pretty darn original (if i knew what an original one looked like) everything works fine and i've had no problems yet (oddly enough i never had a problem without the weight either). If your not looking to spend 10 bucks then a split shot and fishing line will do just fine :thmbsp:
 
Thank You...

steve gibson said:
I took the wieght off from my 211 and it weighs 1/16th ounce. The size of a small split shot sinker. The thread is very fine. Much finer than sewing thread. Maybe small guage monofilament would work. It hangs to about 3/8 inch from the top of the table.
Click to expand...

Thanks, how do you like the 211? :scratch2:

John. :music:
 
Debassige said:
I own a 211 as well with a missing anti skate weight, picked up one from needle doctor (can't remember the brand), they currently have two types project and music hall (i think this is the one i have), the one i ordered did not come with any sort of string so used the finest fishing line i could find and it all looks pretty darn original (if i knew what an original one looked like) everything works fine and i've had no problems yet (oddly enough i never had a problem without the weight either). If your not looking to spend 10 bucks then a split shot and fishing line will do just fine :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

Thanks, I saw that after I bought the cartridge's from "Needle Doctor".

I will be busy this weekend trying this out, with Pictures to follow.

John. :music:
 
I know this is an old thread but I have this TT and I really like it. It is currently using a Shure Me97HE cartridge and I'm doing the best I can setting VTG and Anti-Skate. I currently have the tonearm set at 1.5g and the anti-skate weight at the 2nd from first notch (believe this is 2g). Any advice on proper calibration?
 
Armando S. said:
I know this is an old thread but I have this TT and I really like it. It is currently using a Shure Me97HE cartridge and I'm doing the best I can setting VTG and Anti-Skate. I currently have the tonearm set at 1.5g and the anti-skate weight at the 2nd from first notch (believe this is 2g). Any advice on proper calibration?
Click to expand...

Hi Armando, welcome to the forum.

If you haven't already done so, make a free account at vinylengine and download the owner's manual for your Yamaha turntable.

Here is the link to the specific page:

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/yamaha/yp-211.shtml

In the meantime, what calibration specifically are you referring to?
 
I'm just referring to properly setting the tonearm and anti-skate for my TT. I have read the manual but it doesn't give much info except referring to the cartridge recommendation.

I have a Shure cartridge with a cheap aftermarket N97LT stylus (original broke).

I'm nust very particular, as are most, with properly setting equipment for optimal performance. I just want to know if someone has this table can share some pointers.
 
Ok, well as long as you followed the tonearm set up described on pages 9 and 10 of the manual:

Balancing tonearm at 0.

Setting the counterweight to the tracking weight according to Shure cartridge requirements.

Then setting the antiskate.

You should be all set. At least to start off.

I'd recommend double checking the alignment to make sure that the cartridge/stylus is exactly where you'll get the best out of it. There are protractors available on vinylengine as well.

Is there something in particular that you think it's not doing properly? Does it sound good? Is it tracking correctly - or skipping across the record?
 
It sounds great! I was just worried that I didn't do it properly. I guess I'm just too anal when it comes to these sort of things.

I have it set up pretty well and even printed off a protractor for alignment. Everything is setup correctly.

Just wanted some further advice from others. Last question and I know I've already read this but if the anti-skate is set for too much (pulling away from record) would there be a way to notice by listening?
 
Armando S. said:
It sounds great! I was just worried that I didn't do it properly. I guess I'm just too anal when it comes to these sort of things.

I have it set up pretty well and even printed off a protractor for alignment. Everything is setup correctly.

Just wanted some further advice from others. Last question and I know I've already read this but if the anti-skate is set for too much (pulling away from record) would there be a way to notice by listening?
Click to expand...

In theory, the antiskate is set to the same number as the tracking force.

If you have tracking force of 2.5, your antiskate would also be set at 2.5.

That is the generally accepted way to do it. It is not carved in stone though.

If it is set correctly according to the manual, and it's not skipping, and it sounds good, you're probably all done.

Pop on some records and play. :thumbsup:
 
reydelaplaya said:
In theory, the antiskate is set to the same number as the tracking force.

If you have tracking force of 2.5, your antiskate would also be set at 2.5.

That is the generally accepted way to do it. It is not carved in stone though.

If it is set correctly according to the manual, and it's not skipping, and it sounds good, you're probably all done.

Pop on some records and play. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Sounds like you've done everything right. Just like the previous person said. I have read a couple different blogs about how much that little weight for the anti skate should weigh. Conflicting. 1.75 G up to. 2 1/4. I split the Difference and went with a 2 gram weight. Seems to work just fine. And finding a two gram weight was not that easy. There was only one seller on eBay. The weights for the regas and other turntables are very heavy weights. Not sure if that would be good or bad. But possibly not correct.
 
Recently picked up a YP-211 minus the weight. Here’s Juan’s recipe for a DIY YP-211 anti-skate weight:
• Pick up some nickel ”conehead” weights for tying streamers. Maybe 5/32 hole, estimate they weigh approx. .5 grams
• Tie a loop at one end of 5x tippet (also from the fly shop) and slip it through a round beadhead that fits inside the coneheads but is too big to slip through the hole in the conehead.
• Once you have the small beadhead on the line, slide the open end of the line through the loop so it secures the beadhead.
• Tie a second loop on the open end of the line so the length of the line is approx. 2 1/4”.
• Thread the open end of the line through the wide end of the coneheads (3x) so they drop onto the round beadhead.

It may take a couple of tries to get the length right. Here are a couple of shots of the weight.
The package for the coneheads has been recycled so I can’t give the specs (hole size or weight), but if you get smaller you can add cones. Just so they are big enough to fit over a round beadhead.

IMG_0605.jpegIMG_0604.jpegIMG_0603.jpeg
 
I use an anti-skate test record I bought from Hudson HiFi. I use it for my three turntables as they’re spring driven not weight driven. There’s several formulas out there people use. Match VTF, use half of VTF, etc. It’s very easy to check and set with the test disk and the disk is not expensive. Has a couple of different protractors for setting over hang too. Given how old these turntables are that springs get weaker should be expected. So far I’ve not had one TT that was 1:1 or 1:1/2. Currently three BIC-980’s. In the last year I’ve had Dual 1257 and 1242 as well. All of them to stay centered and not drift in or out anti-skating is set a bit higher than the VTF. Not a lot, just a bit. Which makes sense. For the spring to provide enough pull needs to be stretched a little more.

Using the disk takes the guess work out of setting anti-skating. We don’t guess for most of the other settings. Why do we for anti-skating?

I’ve also used a laser disk. Very cheap anymore. I made the right size puck for its inner circle. Use it just like the actual test disk.

By the way, I do not work for Hudson HiFi. I’m a retired registered nurse.

Laser Disk:
https://www.reddit.com/r/vinyl/comments/974y8q

Then there’s this thing: http://veteranhifi.se/images/pdf/WallySkaterInstructions.pdf

Step by step with the Hudson HiFi record:

Hudson HiFi Test disk on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Hudson-Hi-Fi...709937839&sprefix=hudson+hifi,aps,117&sr=8-20
 
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