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CT-F1000 FF/REW repair with an innovative (?) fix

w1jim

I can fix it but good...
Subscriber
I haven't been big into cassettes since I had a Pioneer KP-500 in my Lancia Beta Coupe back in the day.

But - I am sucker for a pretty silver face.
And then I lucked into a "can't say no" deal on a nice CT-F1000.

Set it up and - surprise - it had the common FF/REW problem.

After reading many threads addressing this problem I took it apart and sent the clutch assembly to markthefixer for his magic fix:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=292583&highlight=ct-f1000+clutch

Mark promptly got it back to me and I managed to reassemble it without any extra parts (:banana:) or even referring to the dozen detailed picture I shot during disassembly.

But I was rewarded with the same problem - super slow FF and no REW.

I'm glad that the clutch was upgraded but bummed I was still in the same place.

My deck looked like someone had been in there previously - there was a missing screw and the belts looked fresh.
I've had the nasty experience of fixing one of these with the rubber belts turned to goo. At least I didn't have to change the belts.

My thoughts were that there was a low voltage issue (11.6 + & - so that was good), a bad motor (torque felt decent when I ran it unmounted) or some other mechanical problem.

At Mark's suggestion I took a black Sharpie and marked the various wheels so that I could determine what was moving (or not).

The "pencil eraser" sized rubber wheel on the motor didn't look worn but it was shiny.
I thought that the lack of torque could be the result of it slipping and it would need replacing.
Fortunately there is a replacement available:

http://www.wjoe.com/vintageandantiques.htm - midway down the page.

But being impatient and innovative I decided on my own fix.
I took a piece of 3/8" heatshrink tubing and shrank it over the old rubber wheel (pulley).

Surprise - it works; it works great!

I suppose if I used this constantly I'd want to go with the WJOE pulley - but I bet this will last for a long time.

See pictures to follow.
 
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Some detailed pictures:

One capstan flywheel removed. The 3-legged spring is important to drain static

a5ff4ec89006f5cf195062bee843d1a2.jpg




Here's that famous clutch and arm in the center; there's the unobtanium RXM-019C FF/REW motor - glad I didn't have to open it up!

77560c8facd55aa208a5ae0c93a9da1d.jpg




The repaired clutch up close with sharpie marks to make it easy to watch while in action

d1e43f7b3deb9becc664eb663fd83b00.jpg




FF/REW motor pulley - worn and slippery!

d003c01c8851daa3668a8c2447da72fe.jpg




A piece of 3/8" heat shrink gently shrunk in place. Rougher surface gives it traction and slightly larger diameter will increase the contact pressure.

ab4b7496a0955d3216abbb514d5c70a0.jpg




A pretty face - even naked.

a6c42aed3c79c7316eb679f0f435710d.jpg




The rear of the tape mechanism.

7a8271189319238fb112d8ed6398944b.jpg




Another detailed picture of the guts.

afb2953a179ec1f83b1247103c5af24f.jpg
 
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Neat :)
Once that pulley glazes over or hardens the ffd/rew, even with a reworked pulley will continue to annoy. In the past I have tried idler solvent for reel to reel, roughing it up etc etc to no avail. Good to know heat shrink will work although not too sure about long term. Great pictures too and not one whiny moment about chasing one of those micro circlips down after it sprung off the bench lol.
-Lee
 
Nice job!!. These are great decks . I did The Fixer's clutch repair to mine CTF1000 and it works fine & sounds good too after the recap. Just finished a ctf950 and now for the ctf700 ,great decks .
 
All that stuff inside a cassette deck makes me edgy -- and everything's so small and so tightly packed! :-P

Two CT-F1000s here; neither works quite right. They'll probably stay that way 'til the Cassette Deck Rapture spirits 'em away...
 
Oh, those tiny little E-clips!
Some people do the disassembly inside a plastic bag to contain the flying parts.
I put a magnet adjacent to the clip so if it flys it sticks to the magnet (I hope).

I also treated the inside rubber parts with some rejuvenator fluid.

I have a CT-F900 (with the flouriscan display) here that needs some attention - maybe that's next!
 
'zackly (re: the clips and springs and other things with huge amounts of stored potential energy, just waiting for an unsuspecting would-be repair person to come along with a pair of 'stats or needlenose pliers...)

:-)

Heh -- two CT-F900s live here, too... one of 'em, last I knew, actually worked fine... they're down in the basement some place; not really good for much -- although there are a few boxes of dump find cassettes of various kinds down there someplace, too...
 
The e-clip is far less likely to fly, (I use a mini screwdriver as a wedge between the shaft and an inner lobe of the clip, THEY don't fly on me) and a magnet won't catch the nylon "tophat".

I had one of my "tophats" disappear for more than a year, which is when I started doing disassembly in the plastic bag. My deck was dead until it was found, I searched for three days straight.

I have seen the old rubber taken off the motor drive and black tubing of some sort of the appropriate ID and OD cut and glued/forced on.
 
disassembly in a plastic bag is a great idea; takes me back to doing really hazardous chemistry in glove bags :-)
 
No - not related, it's on the rewind/fast forward motor, not on the tape capstan motor which runs the play function.
 
Some detailed pictures:

One capstan flywheel removed. The 3-legged spring is important to drain static

a5ff4ec89006f5cf195062bee843d1a2.jpg




Here's that famous clutch and arm in the center; there's the unobtanium RXM-019C FF/REW motor - glad I didn't have to open it up!

77560c8facd55aa208a5ae0c93a9da1d.jpg




The repaired clutch up close with sharpie marks to make it easy to watch while in action

d1e43f7b3deb9becc664eb663fd83b00.jpg




FF/REW motor pulley - worn and slippery!

d003c01c8851daa3668a8c2447da72fe.jpg




A piece of 3/8" heat shrink gently shrunk in place. Rougher surface gives it traction and slightly larger diameter will increase the contact pressure.

ab4b7496a0955d3216abbb514d5c70a0.jpg




A pretty face - even naked.

a6c42aed3c79c7316eb679f0f435710d.jpg




The rear of the tape mechanism.

7a8271189319238fb112d8ed6398944b.jpg




Another detailed picture of the guts.

afb2953a179ec1f83b1247103c5af24f.jpg
 
I had another AKer perform the clutch repair - but I suspect due to issues he is facing that service may no longer available.
Ends up that wasn't an issue with mine - though the clutch was rebuilt.
 
I ALREADY (6:17 pm) sent john martin a PM.... The clutch repair and STV diode repair services are STILL available, even though I am on "hiatus". Don't need a lot of time or space to do them in, just pull out the toolkit for that project and I'm good to go.
 
Singing all pretty!

A perfect and chronologically nice match for my SX-1980.

cc8b04b40b3810c8b8e2c7365f43624b.jpg
Looking for the wiring diagram for the capstan motor to the controller board. They were disconnected on the deck I got as it was a WIP. I rebuilt the motor and bench tested it first. I cant seem to upload ny pictures...always says too big...
 
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