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My 2215B needs some help. (or, first restoration)

secondslc

mmmmmarantz
Hey all,
*Questions are starred* and im sorry for being so long!

A brief history...
I got this unit from a thrift store for 40 bucks, no lights other than the dial lamp worked, but as long as it powered up, I knew it was fixable. I didn't want to crack open a 4400 or 2270 as my first restorations, so this "baby" Marantz was perfect for a full redo.
Before taking it apart, the dial lamp worked, but otherwise, it had a black face.
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It was dirty
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Each fuse bulb was burnt, and there was a thin coating of dust/grime on everything inside. I decided to be courageous and spray everything down with an electronics cleaner I got from these guys http://www.chemtronics.com/home.asp
the stream from the can seemed to clear everything up, since it was slow to evaporate, i gave it an hour or so to dry out. Powered it up, and absolutely no static from any control, i was happy.
Cleannnnnnn(caps in the second board from left replaced)
2357486194_0e9ffa6a01_b.jpg


I then bought a set of LEDs for it, and WOW, what a deep rich blue to come out of this thing! :drool: I was real happy. I have LEDS for all the other units in my sig, and i cant wait to do those!
The 4400 is half burnt and incandescent (I had to exaggerate the yellows to get the lamp color right)
2356663547_4dd1432612_b.jpg

Its WAY more true blue than the pictures show
2356649349_d13ce0cba4_b.jpg


Then i started replacing the capacitors. Here is where I need help. I can't find any schematics or user manuals for this receiver, so I just went through the unit, and got a list of everything I needed. Since Marantz was not stupid or cheap in picking their components, i wanted to stay somewhat true and go with elna Cerafines in everything. I found everything except for a few.
**I was wondering if anybody could suggest a good cap and place to get them for the following values.two 2200uF 35v capacitors, one 3300uF 55v capacitor, two 4.7uF 16v capacitors.**

The install is going just fine, I replaced all the caps except for one in the board to the right of the transistor board. I don't know what board it was, but it just seems to be handling a good bit of power judging by the caps.
**can somebody please describe what the boards are?? Im not touching the tuner board, and I know where the tone board and power is, but what are the two other ones***

I have to comment on how the sound of this receiver improved by replacing just six capacitors. While my Fluke 87V said the caps were still within tolerance, it just sounds....cleaner. I encourage anybody thinking about doing a re-cap, please do it! It just sounds....right! CD quality tuner sound is an under-statement, its just....:banana:

The tuner on this receiver is phenomenal, a simple extended speaker wire lets this thing pull in any station I listen to perfectly.
**I was wondering how to adjust the alignment of the dial to the actual station tuned, 104.3 picks up before the 104**

**off topic question....I just got a pair of Koss esp-6 headphones from a friend. It only has the one headphone cord, but there is a nut that looks like a separate ground or something. I know there are better headphones out there, and that these electrostatics need a headphone amp. The 2215B seems to power them, but they seem to be completely underpowered. Am I missing parts? Or will a real headphone amp power these properly?The rubber around the cups was supossedly glycerin filled, now theyre flat, is there something I can do about that?***

A final picture if you made it this far:wave:
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I don't have a service manual but I know the board you did is the Power supply board. You can also replace the larger cap on the same board with a two terminal cap as one on the original is just for stability.
The board to the left or that with the 2200's is the driver and amp section.
Should be the next one done.
Nice thing about that unit is you really don't have to pull the boards if you don't want to. Just flip the whole unit.
2215b was my first recap job and I was impressed by the difference.
Keep it up and good luck.
Check Mouser for you cap needs but there are lots of others.
 
Looks like a fantastic job so far. When you are done you want to take a crack at my 2215B for some more practice? :)
 
If the tuning is off the same across the entire band you can move the pointer, check the AM tracking first. If FM is off at one end of the band but not the other then the front end needs aligned, or cleaned. Not a good thing to do without test equipment you may do more harm than good.
What kind of LEDs did you use???
 
You can also replace the larger cap on the same board with a two terminal cap as one on the original is just for stability.
Hrmph, i didn't even register the fact that there were three terminals.(was half :boring:) I suppose it would be clear which ones are needed when I take the cap off?
The board to the left or that with the 2200's is the driver and amp section.
Should be the next one done.
I figured that would be the next board to do, as well as the tone board behind the bass and treble knobs, what's the small board next to the tuner board?

Nice thing about that unit is you really don't have to pull the boards if you don't want to. Just flip the whole unit.
:D exactly what i did

Check Mouser for you cap needs but there are lots of others.
I know little about cap quality, i was just wondering if anybody had experience with these values, and what brand/series I should look for. Panasonics, United Chem-con, and Nichicons are great, but what line? Mouser, newark and digikey have caps that work, but they're odd brands.
 
If the tuning is off the same across the entire band you can move the pointer, check the AM first. If it is off at one end of the band but not the other then the front end needs aligned, or cleaned. Not a good thing to do without test equipment you may do more harm than good.
What kind of LEDs did you use???
This guy is fantastic to deal with
Ill just leave the tuner alone, it pulls in the stations i want.
 
A few pieces of test equipment you may want to grab .... It will add to the expense but they will help tons....Shop around and you can find them cheap.

1. 20a Vriac... Used or cheapo from China

2. ESR meter .... Kits go for 80$ or there abouts. Will help ID the bad caps. I generally replace every electrolytic or tantalum I can get at. But test them afterwards.

3. Capacitance meter. Same...test them as they come out.

4. Clamp type amp/volt meter and the adapter to tap into the suppy line... nice to monitor the amperage as you turn up the supply voltage slowly watch for shorts....

5. Scope.

6 Signal generator.

7. Distortion meter.

8. Test load resistors.


I know this seems like a lot, but pick them over time...sooner than later and your life will be tons easy.

I also found that one of the cheap infra red thermometers are very helpful. Helps spot a hot running component....

All of this will help make this a manageable process.


jk
 
A few pieces of test equipment you may want to grab .... It will add to the expense but they will help tons....Shop around and you can find them cheap.......
jk

The 87V does capacitance, ill be graduating from the Illinois Institute of Technology, and got a job with Emerson Electric. Electrical engineering will be my "thing" (I am not qualified to call myself an engineer, real world experience is totally needed).. Anyways, ill be building up an arsenal of test equipment, or asking to be able to use the stuff at work. I'll have the money (i think!) so ill definitely get what you have listed.

For now, i replace every cap, the values were at max 70 uF off, but whatever, it sounds better with the cerafines so far.

I used:
ElectrO-WasH electronics cleaner
Pow-R-WasH electronics contact cleaner
Pow-R-WasH contact cleaner
with no ill effects.

I basically go to www.mcmastercarr.com and choose a cleaner that fits my needs. They in turn supply high quality stuff without advertising brands in their catalog, the customer enjoys lower costs. I guess they got chemtronics cheap enough to use them.
I heart mc master:thmbsp:
 
As far as the rest of the caps are concerned I don't think you really have to use super duper stuff. Panasonics etc. will do just fine.
When you bought the Elnas where did you get them?

I ask cause the values you are asking about are pretty common and most should carry them.
 
You can still get earpads for most Koss headphones off their website. I ordered some for my wife's 30 yr. old HV-1s last Xmas. Cost only $5 delivered and they were here in 3 or 4 days.
Koss.com and look under 'Find replacement earcushions'
 
sweet! I'll do that

Also just ordered the rest of the caps, the most expensive Panasonics i could find all around...came up to be 8 whole dollars!

Wait to you dive into the 4400....don't worry, you will get to spend more on the caps....:D
 
Wait to you dive into the 4400....don't worry, you will get to spend more on the caps....:D

It goes, 2215B, then my harmon kardon preamp, then the 140 amp, then 2270, then ill find something else to not do the 4400.....its just scaaaary.....but i figure as i upgrade the lower powered ones, the 4400 will be the sweet reward.
 
An Update!

I spent some more time re-capping the tone board, the phono pre-amp (im assuming thats what the small board is. And the amp board. Other than thinking a resistor was the lead to a cap, everything went just fine. On this unit so far, the Printed boards were consistent in polarity indicated for the caps. I checked each one against the + sign and the cap itself.

The tone board needs two more capacitors, they're on their way.
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The amp board also needs two more capacitors replaced.
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Is this the phono board?
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Everything I pulled out, plus two new caps shown.
Id be a liar if I didn't say I picked the cerafines partly because of how the look. Ruby red, black and gold.....pretty!

2364284022_bdbe71e9e5_b.jpg

The KOSS stereophones, can anybody suggest an amp for these? The earcushions seem flat, my idea is maybe taking a diabetic needle and injecting them with something. Any ideas?
 
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