I downloaded the owners manual for your meter, and 0.f means over range.
That is a normal display when making a reading of a resistance greater than the meter is set to read. To get a zero on the display, touch the probes together....
Your meter is supposed to be auto ranging, and BE in auto-ranging when turned on, with a manual ranging over-ride, but the manual ranging over-ride limits the meter's usefulness and complicates taking the reading.
When doing manual resistance range selection when you see 0.f you should hit "select" to step to the next higher range. If the probes are NOT touching the resistance should be infinite.
BUT if it is in auto ranging a 0.f means that either you didn't make a good connection to bare metal at both the test points at the same time OR the resistor has become defective and open-circuited. Unlikely, but stranger things have happened.... AND HAVE HAPPENED, HERE, with HomerJSimpson.....
Thus I am NOT sure if the reading of 0.f in this case represents a defective 10,000 ohm R19, or rather just a meter stuck in the lowest range of 400 ohms, for which 10,000 is way too much. If I were making the reading and it read 0.f , it WOULD be the proof of the problem.
You need to take two other readings, from the points of the original readings to the leads of the possibly defective component, to verify an unbroken circuit through the resistor, meaning the break in the circuit (IF it exists) is INSIDE the resistor.
The problem is that the manual doesn't show a drawing of the parts locations on the board, and there are THREE 10,000 ohm resistors on it (color code = BROWN BLACK ORANGE) so I can't just tell you to look for the colors.
One thing we can try is for you to read all three components with the brown black orange color bands at their component leads. TWO of the three ARE correct as the receiver does come out of protect. The other two may not read exactly 10,000 ohms because they are installed in circuits that will affect the readings, but there WILL be readings, and any in-circuit effects will cause lower readings than 10,000 ohms.
Edit: here's a bit quicker way than the stuff below: set the meter for ohms, and touch one lead to the "right" lead of the transistor where you got the 0.232v reading on, then probe BOTH ends of the THREE resistors with the brown black orange color bands, one of these six readings SHOULD be almost ZERO ohms.... THAT'S R19!! Read from R19's other side to pin 14, and you should see TEN ohms. That means the PC patterns are ok. IF all three resistors read around 10,000 ohms we had a cockpit problem, not a bad resistor.
The other thing is for you to follow the conductors back from the points where you made the original readings to where they actually connect with the correct 10,000 ohm resistor, the correct path goes from pin 14, through a TEN ohm resistor (brown black black) from which there are TWO 10,000 ohm resistors connected at that point.
(I wish I could just POINT on a picture.... sigh)
The suspect (R19) 10,000 ohm resisitor will have it's other side connected to the "right" lead of the transistor where you got the 0.232v reading.
Thus from pin 14 where you took the original reading, to one component lead of R19 (when it is found) should read about ten ohms,
and the other component lead of R19 to the "right" lead of the transistor where you got the 0.232v reading should read zero ohms (well.... say less than two ohms).
The readings BETWEEN the TWO leads of R19 should be 10,000 ohms...
thus we have travelled in a circle, but we have proven the meter's operation and that the foil traces and solder joints that form that circuit in the power supply are uninterrupted...
(I'll say it for you, whew........... whatta mouthful!!)
