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AR Flea Market TSW 410 Series - pic

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Playing Around
Well, today I got myself into some trouble:yes:...I know you guys will help me out with these. I know that they're AR, but I haven't noticed TSW 410 mentioned.

These did not come with Polk mid-range speakers...did they? What should I look for?

The woofers will need foam and I think I'll attempt upgraded x-overs.

Please help me, I want to do these speakers right.

TIA, Preston

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Thanks for the link Mark.

I will refoam...but unsure if I will use the Polks with the AR x-overs. I guess someone already has so maybe it's not all that bad.

Refoam and listen. Preston
 
Just Finished Mine

I just finished my re foaming mine all I can say is OUTSTANDING. I'm sure you will be very happy with the results, this was my first re foam and I found the mid range to be the toughest to seat the foam properly. Now all I need is to find one grill and I will have them 100%. Good luck it worth the trouble.
 
namrac, glad your a happy listener...

I did finished the refoam on my 8" woofers and the speaks sound good...lots of bass(maybe to much) which I think is from the Polk 6.5"s that someone replaced the mid-range with:tears:.

I'm going to listen and do some more A&B'ing when I get some more speaker wire that will allow me to have two pair on the same receiver:thmbsp:. Preston
 
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Just to chime in. I have a pair of TSW 210. After refoaming these are very acceptable bookshelf speakers. Becareful wen refoaming. The woofers are very sensitive to the correct shimming while refoaming. Don't ask me how I know.
 
The woofers are very sensitive to the correct shimming while refoaming. Don't ask me how I know.

I have to...how do you know?????:D

I used the shims in the kit as per directions and all seems well.

What happened to you?? Preston
 
I still have my TSW 410's even though not currently in rotation. I keep them because they have solid cabinets and were the first speaker I purchased (from a friend) when I started getting into home audio.

I still have the original drivers in a box, needing re-foaming. But I actually had great success with a Vifa PL for midrange and a Pioneer B20 fullrange for bass. The x-over specs and cabinet volumes were a good match for the drivers. I just had to make an l-pad to attenuate the tweeters a little.

I got alot of great sound out of them. I still take them out every now and then just to give them a listen.
 
Thanks, Blackstone...

I'll look into the Vifa PL...I think the 8" ARs will be fine.

If you would tell me about..."I just had to make an l-pad to attenuate the tweeters a little.", what did you do and what does the I-pad do? TIA Preston
 
Thanks, Blackstone...

I'll look into the Vifa PL...I think the 8" ARs will be fine.

If you would tell me about..."I just had to make an l-pad to attenuate the tweeters a little.", what did you do and what does the I-pad do? TIA Preston

No problem.

I will say that I'm sure that the tsw will sound best with all of the original drivers refoamed and in place. At the time, I was new to the hobby and the only refoamed resources I knew of were more expensive than me buying the new drivers that were a good match for the cabinet volume.

The Vifa I had is a VIFA PL18WO-17-04 7" WOOFER. There are probably better ones that have come out since then. Mine was back in 2003.

The tweeters sounded hot to me, so I used a resistor l-pad to tone it down but still maintain decent x-over point and impedence.

A ciruit calculator can be found here: http://ccs.exl.info/calc_cr.html#lpad

Resistors can be purchased at Radio Shack or online electronics parts store. I've ordered from Partsexpress many times. But since it may take a few different l-pads to see which one you like most, going to Radio Shack was easier for me.

Hope that helps a little.

Talking about this makes me won't to take them out of storage again. :)
 
Again Blackstone, thanks for the information.

I have little knowledge of electrical workings but I'm learning thanks to folks like you that share the info and sources.

I agree that the original drivers would be best and will continue to keep an eye on that acution site(even if I don't care for it). I've seen several listed but their #s did not match the #s of the schematic...so I'll keep looking.

Preston
 
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