Just scored a 170DC! What to do??

Hi..

I just scored a 170-dc in decent condition!
Filthy but otherwise ok, for 25 bux.
WooHoo!!!
I so rarely have luck like this.
Guy says it works too..
I'll see tomorrow.

Other than sharing my joy...
(This is my first Marantz, tho I've lusted since a kid)
I posted to ask what I should do.

NOT whether to keep it. Thats absolute.
I'll likely never sell it. Certainly not ANYtime soon.

Rather, how to go about.... whatever, from here.
Ie: Clean--> then what---> and after that??
How to for each step.

The guy I got it off says it turns on ok, as of a week or
so ago.
Do I need to variac?
(hope not since I don't have one)

Any basic things I need to change or do for safety and
optimum perf, even if it fires up and plays ok?

I realize, deoxit on pots and connectors, but what else?
How to basic inside chassis cleaning?

What mods?
How to change RCA and spkr connectors?
How to IEC mains jack?

Whatever else I haven't thought to mention...

I know many here really know their stuff, particularly
with all things Marantz... so plz give me a sense of how to
procede.

I'm sooo proud of it!

Btw, the story goes like this...
I stopped by the carpenter who's making some kitchen cabs
for wifey....
I'd noticed the Marantz on a shelf with some junk components
before...
I've never heard music playing while there... even tho he's
a musician.
Now that I've gotten to know him a little bit better....
I felt comfortable to ask:
"So... ya wanna sell that Marantz over there?"
Figured I'd take the chance... can't hurt, all he can say it
no.

So he says "sure... whats it worth to ya"?
I paused a sec...
Wondered if I should say $20.
Figured that might be insulting and said "$25. ok?"
He said "sure".
WooHooooooooooooo!!!
I could barely contain myself.
Even asked if it works, "cuz it might not be worth it
otherwise".
Hehe..
Would've said "I'll take it" even if he said it dosen't
Lol...

Thanks in advance!

The 170DC is a great sounding amp, nice score!

After you get it cleaned up you may want to replace the speaker relay and all the electrolytic capacitors. You can make up a plate to fill the existing hole and use two singles to replace the existing un-obtainable dual filter.

Here's a list of the capacitors and some suggested replacements, along with a few pictures of a dual to single cap replacement.

Tom

Mine should be arriving in a day or two. Sooooo you have a cap list eh!

I want to match mine up with a restored 3600. It currently has a 250 hooked up. But I always just wanted to try at least ONE of the DC series amps.

I'll let you know how mine turns out when it arrives.

charles

Hi Tom...
Thanks so very much for the info!!!!!
Let me just offer a word of praise, on the thorughness
and clarity of your reply.
I think it takes a certain amount of talent to say so much,
with clarity and thoroughness, in so few words.

I now know exactly what the main things to address are.
Thank you!
----------------

Hi Charles...
I'm glad to share this moment of joy with ya!
----------------

I've a few more questions... as they come to mind.

1) The DC input vs the cap coupled setting.
Obviously its better to eliminate a cap you're otherwise
listening through...
So, what are the other advantages/disadvantages..
What kind of Pre-amps DON'T like a DC amp, and when
else not to use the DC setting.

Is there a better switch that can be easily subbed?

2) Whats the best way to clean/shine a nasty/filthy face
plate.

3) How to disable/bypass or at least upgrade the level pots?

4) Whats the easiest way to replace the spkr jacks with
decent binding posts?
Same for RCAs?

5) Is there a source, other than the auction site, for RHA1
rack handles, and WC-110s?

(more to come as I think of it)

May I humbly suggest you consider offering for sale, a "parts-pak"
with the items you mentioned as well as lamps,
fuses, I/O connectors, and anything else that makes sense.
I for one, would be glad to pay 10/15% (or whatever within reason)
over cost, to save having to source it all, maybe make mistakes
and possibly have to do returns, etc...
and just have everything needed to rehab arrive in one
box all at once.
--------------------

I'm begining to realize that I'm biting off more than I can
chew at the moment.
I got caught up last night, in the excitement/enthusiasm of
the surprise of this great amp falling into my lap.
When I left the house yesterday, I had no idea I'd come home
with this prize!

Right now, I'm supposed to be packing to move in a couple
of weeks.
Instead, I'm knee deep in a custom turntable project, that
while about 90% done, is taking longer than expected.
I need to focus on finishing IT and closing that can of worms
rather than open a new one.

Conflicting with that, is the desire to USE this amp!!
I really DO need a good amp in the main system, and
the 170-dc would fit the bill nicely....IF it were in good working
order.

What I'm wondering is:
IF I fire it up and it basically works OK, rather than going
POOF... or BANG (heaven forbid), whats the bare minimum
I need to do, to consider it safe and decent sounding, so
as to use it with peace of mind??

Thanks again to all!
Greg

MuZak said:

2) Whats the best way to clean/shine a nasty/filthy face
plate.

Click to expand...

For the face plate, I would use the Novus products to start with. There is a heavy scratch remover, a fine scratch remover and the polish. The fine scratch remover works well on plastic face plates and then you can finish it off with the polish.

Gary

Meguire's Plast-X also works wonders on clear plastic face/dial plates (as well as TT dust covers, etc...).

Their "Deep Crystal" Paint Cleaner/Restorer is also fantastic for painted cases. With the black Marantz cases, use the Meguire's Paint Cleaner/Restorer first. Best to do it twice, letting it rest in between. Rub well with a cotton cloth when applying, and you'll see the finish improve. Then let it rest overnight, and if you want some protection and a bit more sheen, you can do it again, or you can just apply black shoe polish with a brush, then brush it off and buff. If you want a bit MORE sheen, add a little of the Meguire's "Gold Class" automotive wax (liquid or paste) to the shoe polish, to make it more reflective.

The "Gold Class" wax can also be used to protect the aluminum faceplate, after you have removed it (the faceplate) and washed it gently with dishwashing liquid.

Check the dc offset as per the instructions in the sticky, because failure to do so could jeopardize the safety of your gear. If that is okay, you can go ahead and use it for a while, until you have time for a recap.

Theoretically, until you recap it is remains a "ticking time bomb", so it is best not to put it off too long, but if you are moving soon and would get to it within a month or two, not playing it too much while you are moving, then it is probably worth the risk. [Take this idea at your own risk!]

Then recap it as soon as you get re-settled after your move, so you can enjoy it fully after that, with peace of mind.

Congratulations on getting a very nice amp!

Hi Gary...

Thanks for the info...
Novus is for plastics as you mention isn't it?

I've done some work on it since my last posting and before
seeing yours.
Its not comming out all that well.
Its a metal panel... but is it coated with something?
Plastic like coating perhaps?

So far, I've used dishwashing liquid... it just loosened up
the glue between the main and sub panels and meter
shrouds..
The old glue made a huge mess and stained the panels, so
I tried "goo gone" to remove it.
Then "Barkeepers Friend" an abrasive cleanser.
Still not good with stained areas... not only from the glue
but from who knows what before I owned it.
Next, I tried Meguires mag and aluminum wheel cleaner/polish.
Didn't do all that much either, and made me think perhaps
the panels are coated with something.
Next, ultra fine steel wool...
Better, but not great, so I tried the Meguries again.
It just seems to worsen the now white stains.
Lots of hours and sore arms... I'm tired.
-------

Hi Arkay..

Thanks for all that great info!
I will indeed try those things.
Especially the "Deep Crystal" Paint Cleaner/Restorer
for
painted cases.
Thats great to know! It will come in handy for many things.
I saved all the info to a file for future reference.

Regarding the DC offset:
I knew that would have to be done, as well as an eventual
re-cap, but was hoping to get away with it for a while.
You understood my situation well.
Thanks so much for the advice there!

Unfortunately though, I think that after reading your prudent
warnings, its best I just be patient and wait till I can do
it all and properly (other than external cosmetics).
I probably won't even try to fire it up now.
Best I just wait till I can fully disassemble, clean-inside, and
rebuild.

Btw, I can't seem to find the DC offset in any of the stickies.
Can you point me to it, as I would like to know?

Thanks for the congrats!
I really do feel that I've lucked out... for a change.
A good reason to just be patient and just wait.

PS: Does anyone know the size and a source for the small
screws that hold on the side trim bezels that surround
the top (meter) panel?
One broke as I unscrewed them to seperate them.
That was nescessary due to the glue mess... had to get
rid of the glue once and for all since it just kept seeping out.

Probably too late to mention it, but if the front panel had been excessively dirty I probably would have physically separated those two meters from it before the cleaning (just the panel by itself, nothing attached).

It looks like your challenge now will be to get it clean without removing the lettering.

Hi stahlhart and thanks...

Actually, I had seperated the panels from the amp and
each other... in other words, they're totally apart.
So far, no probs with the lettering.
-----------

First off, I have to mention... whenever I've said meguires
above I meant Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. My bad.

I guess I should update and clarify...
As of now, the only problem with the face plate is some
white staining caused or worsened by the Mother's.
I'm now convinced the Mother's is the WRONG stuff to use
on these panels.
Whatever the reason.
It seems like it might be a chemical reaction of some sort.
Seems like any thats left behind for more than a few secs
just stays there.
Thats how it seems, but I think its staining.

The prior step was ultra fine steel wool... and it was BETTER!
Got WORSE after the Mother's.

To clarify... its now totally clean... no gunk or anything else
like that..
Just the staining effect.

Do Marantz front panels have some sort of clear coating to inhibit oxidation of the metal? Perhaps this is what you've got the white staining on, which is a little disconcerting.

stahlhart said:

Do Marantz front panels have some sort of clear coating to inhibit oxidation of the metal? Perhaps this is what you've got the white staining on, which is a little disconcerting.

Click to expand...

I've come to believe they do. At least mine does.
When I got it, oxidation wasn't one of the problems at all.
It was this stained appearance under a lot of filth and yellowing.
That and running glue related stuff that was comming from
under the topmost panel and the black plastic meter shrouds.
It was kind of oozing or running out from that area.
At first, I thought it was that causing the staining and trying
to remove that was where I started.

I believe that initially the staining was a corruption of this
coating, of one or more sorts.
In fact, the first time I used the Mothers it did basically nothing..
which was first started me thinking its coated.

Now, I believe its the Mothers staining the bare metal.
After using several abrasives... first the Barkeepers friend
abrasive cleanser, then the mothers, then ultra fine steel
wool, then the mothers again...
I don't think there's anything left but bare metal.
Problem now, is that the mothers must just be the wrong
thing for BRUSHED metal.
Thats what I'm thinking at least.

As far as being disconcerting...
Well yeah.. if you're in my situation.
But if you have a good panel in pristene condition...
Then its a good thing.
Just make sure to keep it that way.