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Technics SL-1700MK2 base repair

Aerobat

Aerobat

Class A all the way
Subscriber
Hi all,

I'm new here. I recently decided to break out my Technics 1700MK2, bought used in the early 80s while I was stationed in Germany. I've been checking out all of the excellent TT resources on the web and have been getting the table ready while waiting for a replacement stylus to ship from LPTunes.

While going over the turntable I noticed some pretty serious cracking in the base around the power supply, which I attribute to overseas shipping (it's a wonder it made it to the states in one piece).

So today I broke out the service manual and got up the nerve to disassemble it and get a closer look. This went smoothly and I ended up clamping and glueing the base with Gorilla glue.

Not that I know my way around inside, I'll probably do a tonearm wire and audio lead upgrade next.

For you electronics experts, do you know why the power leads are connected to the circuit board by wrapping them around a pole (see pic attached). I wasn't really able to wrap them as tight as they were and I'm afraid the wire is going to break if I keep messing with them. Otherwise it's a snap to take it apart.

I also put in a pic of the underside of the tonearm. I added some gear grease - note the smaller gear has a break in it.

Definitely looking forward to spinning some vinyl with this badboy!

Mark
 

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Aerobat said:
For you electronics experts, do you know why the power leads are connected to the circuit board by wrapping them around a pole (see pic attached). I wasn't really able to wrap them as tight as they were and I'm afraid the wire is going to break if I keep messing with them. Otherwise it's a snap to take it apart.
Click to expand...

That's wire-wrapped from the factory. It would be OK to solder to that post if the wire isn't very tight.
 
"pigtails" is a common way of attaching wires to get a good connection if you (or the manufacturer) chooses not to solder 'em.


That's a nice table- I have the SL-1710 (dark grey) MK2 version.
 
One thing I'd do is replace the audio cables. it made a huge difference with mine. i used The Petra Component Video cables. Do a search here and you'll find lots of info on those and other cables.
 
Thanks, I'll look for the cables. I need them to be about 6" longer to reach my receiver anyway.

Update -- I just ordered the bulk Mogami cable and solder-type gold RCA jacks. Thanks again...
 
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I had trouble locating the Petras. Both the cables and the stylus shipped yesterday.

Today I'm going shopping for a paintbrush and a dish rack:D

God knows what my old LPs are going to look like.
 
Petras are discontinued and hard to locate as of late.

I think the Mogamis were a good choice.

The Petras were dirt cheap and I know the Mogami brand cost more, but like I said, Petras are discontinued, so it don't matter.
 
thedelihaus said:
Petras are discontinued and hard to locate as of late.

I think the Mogamis were a good choice.

The Petras were dirt cheap and I know the Mogami brand cost more, but like I said, Petras are discontinued, so it don't matter.
Click to expand...

Please Paul say it isn't so about the Petras.:scratch2:
 
So I have the Mogani cable - it has 2 pairs inside it. Are you using a single cable (4 wires), or two cables (8 wires) to go from the TT to the preamp?

Update -- I just re-read the cable comparison post, and he did use 2 separate cables. So time to order another one. D'OH!
 
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Aerobat said:
So I have the Mogani cable - it has 2 pairs inside it. Are you using a single cable (4 wires), or two cables (8 wires) to go from the TT to the preamp?

Update -- I just re-read the cable comparison post, and he did use 2 separate cables. So time to order another one. D'OH!
Click to expand...


How long is your cable you ordered?
 
5'. I was going to go with a 5' cable to replace the stock 3' so I have some extra to play with.
 
Well I just finished the job and it went fine. Markertek ships the same day and I have the order the next day.

The only problem was that the thickness of the cables (probably twice as thick) prevented me from using the strain relief or the rectangular metal cover that goes over the PCB under the tonearm. I improvised strain relief by routing the cables around a post on the bottom of the base and tying them off with a nylon cable tie. Everything seems kosher and continuity tests as expected. Sorry no photos but my camera just died.

My stylus is on a USP truck somewhere between Cerritos CA and PA. I should have it Tuesday and it will finally be time to spin some vinyl. I've been using the paintbrush, Dawn, and microfiber towels on my collection and it looks pretty good. I also have a carbon fiber brush and stylus cleaner on the way.

Thanks for the help,

Mark
 
Excellent!

Which cable type did you order? There's a few type that one can use- all good.

The zip-tie is the typical solution for strain relief with the larger cables.
 
Not to be the grinch but while gorilla glue is OK for gluing gorillas, JB weld would have been a much better choice for this app. You cannot use JB on top of other glue like gorilla glue, every tiny bit of GG would have to come off first.
 
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